It worked for 10 years
yes....but there is a huge difference between a 20G and a 65G. Can OP do it...yes. (and I would have advise using Aquaclear 110...but thats a different thread). Will it make any impact on OP's tank.....hardly.This was on a tidal 75 with an 18w IM ChaetoMax LED on a 20g that was constantly overfed, no skimmer and no mechanical filtration. Nitrates bottomed out and po4 at 1.4 although topped with hard tap water as an experiment to see if macroalgae removed some metals which it apparently did.
Next iteration AquaClear 110 as it's just easier to function as a HOB Fuge. Light can be placed from behind and avoid that glare in my face. Although this looks cooler.
But that's also why I'm suggesting the 110. It's more than twice the volume. Plus if OP runs it as an ATS then it will filter much bigger tanks. Fact why I'm first running it that way and BTW, tank size is irrelevant. Amount of food added what matters. Filter isn't removing 65 gallons of water. It's removing mass of food added and either left uneaten or processed by the fish. Why I never look at volume of gallons when sizing filters. It's mostly about the feed input and to some degree amount of fish. That's how fish farmers calculate filter need. Water volume dilutes but in the end it all needs to be processed.
Well I wanna be able to lower my nitrates to starve GHA and also heal my LPS they are very unhappy with nitrates but I wanna keep nitrates in the 15 range because of softies and 4 nems.
Tried the Hygger. It's in my drawer that was so pathetic. Not where one wants to go cheap. Wait on a sale and get something better. Amazon has $25 intercultural lights. Google HOB refugiums and see different ideas. Don't need to go expensive either. The light is the heart of the Fuge. Doesn't have to be pink/purple either. Full spectrum works just fine.
