How does putting ATO sensor in return chamber work?

[Adamantium]

I'm really struggling with this. I have an AIO 40G breeder, and I can't find success when I put the ATO sensor in the return chamber, only when placed in the main display does it work as expected.

The reason, I suspect, is due to the filter floss. As the floss clogs, flow slows down, but the return pump keeps pumping at the same speed, resulting in a continuous lowering of the return chamber water level. I change pads every 3 days, or so, but even a small slowdown in flow results in overfilling by the ATO.

Somehow, everything works as expected when I put the sensor in the main display.

Any help/insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[lakai]

In a sump, the return chamber is the only one that changes level but on a AIO every chamber changes level depending on any blockage. Safer to put the sensor in the display.

 

[Adamantium]

In a sump, the return chamber is the only one that changes level but on a AIO every chamber changes level depending on any blockage. Safer to put the sensor in the display.

Interesting. This is the first time I’ve heard that answer. Everyone was saying it should go in the return chamber, even in an AIO. Bummer, since the sensor has a light I’d like to hide.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[92Miata]

Put in the return chamber.

Any filter pad that's backing up the tank level enough to cause water level problems is a bad day away from a flood.

Use a filter sock or a sponge or something - they have way more surface area to clog before they cause problems. Or move stuff around such that when the filter pad clogs, water just flows over it.

The only section that should be changing level is the return. It's a sump. If other levels are changing, something is malfunctioning.

 

[Lizbeli]

In AIOs sensor absolutely goes in the return. You can solve your issue by using less filter media, or changing more frequently. Both my IM tanks needed their floss changed every two days to keep everything flowing.

 

[Adamantium]

See, that’s just the thing. It’s only come close to overflowing, and has thrown off the salinity, when it’s in the return chamber. And that was in less than 24 hours. Keeping the probe in the display has kept salinity spot on, it’s just unsightly.

The AIO back chambers don’t have enough water to overflow the tank if they run dry, but the sensor being in the return resulted in constant little bits of filling as the pads clogged, raising the display more and more. If I hadn’t caught it, it definitely would’ve overflowed.

I’ll try changing pads more often, but like I said, it was fluctuating in less than 24 hours. Hard to change pads more frequently than that. My salinity went from 35 PPT to 34.5 and my display was filled to the brim.

 

[mfinn]

Maybe use a different filter pad material that doesn't clog as easy?

 

[jrill]

As others have said the problem is how your using the filter pads not placing the senor in the return chamber.

 

[Adamantium]

Interesting. The pads are actually proprietary ones from Fiji Cube. No other options haha

I’ll try changing them more often and see if that helps. They’re working well, they just clog a bit too quickly, I guess.

 

[mfinn]

Interesting. The pads are actually proprietary ones from Fiji Cube. No other options haha

I’ll try changing them more often and see if that helps. They’re working well, they just clog a bit too quickly, I guess.

Many people buy a product and see a issue or a quirk with it. Look for and find a solution outside of the company.
That's what diy is all about.

 

[Adamantium]

Many people buy a product and see a issue or a quirk with it. Look for and find a solution outside of the company.
That's what diy is all about.

Good point. I’ll see what I can jerry rig. Thanks