How to add anthias successfully?

[fishguy777]

LfS has female Bimac, pink square (yellow), and broad stripe anthias.

Display is 240, qt is a 65.

If I buy say 5 of them, they’d be in the 65 for atleast 2 weeks. Is that a big enough space for them to start to develop a hierarchy, where one transitions to male?

**for those concerned about my stocking level, I have a friend with a 400, that’s if something went wrong, he could take them.

 

[fishguy777]

My main concern is the fighting for a hierarchy is bad enough, but is the 65 gonna amplify the aggression?

 

[jonelder68]

Feeding frequent is key with Anthias. My dispar and ignitus never really show any disputes. Believe that’s due to frequent feedings.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

IMO tight rockwork is important for anthias, they like to hide and swim through the rocks.

Does the LFS have a male? A male keeps the hierarchy in line.

 

[fishguy777]

IMO tight rockwork is important for anthias, they like to hide and swim through the rocks.

Does the LFS have a male? A male keeps the hierarchy in line.

No male, I read that if u buy a bunch of females one will transition to male

This is the 65 they’ll be in, I have extra rock I can add tho

 

[fishguy777]

Feeding frequent is key with Anthias. My dispar and ignitus never really show any disputes. Believe that’s due to frequent feedings.

i have an autofeeder coming today. It only can do dry foods (pellets/flakes), u think that’s fine?

They’ll get frozen 1x a day on top of 2x dry food with autofeeder

 

[fishguy777]

Feeding frequent is key with Anthias. My dispar and ignitus never really show any disputes. Believe that’s due to frequent feedings.

Also, did you do the same thing I’m gonna-where u buy all the females and have them establish their own hierarchy?

 

[jonelder68]

Also, did you do the same thing I’m gonna-where u buy all the females and have them establish their own hierarchy?

Yes

 

[jonelder68]

i have an autofeeder coming today. It only can do dry foods (pellets/flakes), u think that’s fine?

They’ll get frozen 1x a day on top of 2x dry food with autofeeder

I feed 7-8 times a day. 4 auto feeds. Tdo chromaboost is their favorite so far.

 

[fishguy777]

I feed 7-8 times a day. 4 auto feeds. Tdo chromaboost is their favorite so far.

Just got 2 pink square anthias females. Ones a tiny bit bigger then other. Also a Christmas Island cleaner wrasse

Assuming I can still add more anthias later right?

 

[jonelder68]

Just got 2 pink square anthias females. Ones a tiny bit bigger then other. Also a Christmas Island cleaner wrasse

Assuming I can still add more anthias later right?

I did. 3 ignitus then later 4 dispars

 

[Cheese Griller]

How big are they? I'd be worried they will get inhaled by the snapper.

 

[Reeferbadness]

i just added 4 Bartlett Anthias to my 200g tank - it's not clear if one is a male although 1 is a little bigger. All are good so far although 1 disappeared for 2 days. Feeding more often is definitely key to anthias health. I am training them to eat small pellets and will add the auto feeder shortly - usually i feed 2x a day. 65g should be ok - mine seem to stay in the same area of the tank and all swim together in a school.

 

[fishguy777]

How big are they? I'd be worried they will get inhaled by the snapper.

3.5 and 4”

Snappers in with a thin 4” goatfish rn

Wrasse is 2”-I have faith he’ll recognize as a cleaner.

 

[littlefoxx]

How big are they? I'd be worried they will get inhaled by the snapper.

He also has a shark, ray, and a grouper that could all potentially eat them as well.

 

[fishguy777]

He also has a shark, ray, and a grouper that could all potentially eat them as well.

I take heavy precautions when adding new fish.

I use the mesh net as a temporary tank divider when adding new fish. They get over initial aggression much faster when doing it this way versus an aclimation box.

I am skeptical with the cleaner wrasse though. Is there any way you recommend adding him, so they can recognize he’s not food?

 

[littlefoxx]

I take heavy precautions when adding new fish.

I use the mesh net as a temporary tank divider when adding new fish. They get over initial aggression much faster when doing it this way versus an aclimation box.

I am skeptical with the cleaner wrasse though. Is there any way you recommend adding him, so they can recognize he’s not food?

Nope I dont, nor would I add it. Ive tried a few and my jeweled eel eats them. They are too close to silversides in shape I think and he thinks they are food. Watched him open his mouth, the wrasse went to clean, and snap gone! No more fish that shape or size for him.

 

[fishguy777]

Nope I dont, nor would I add it. Ive tried a few and my jeweled eel eats them. They are too close to silversides in shape I think and he thinks they are food. Watched him open his mouth, the wrasse went to clean, and snap gone! No more fish that shape or size for him.

I added him. So far so good.
Fed everyone heavy before, he’s already gone to cleaning, the many of the problem fish. Grouper, bird wrasse, snapper, most of the tangs; trigger. Gonna wait and see how the rest of the interactions go

Leaving a mirror up for a bit, just to be safe. He is actually fighting his reflection. I’ll be monitoring this guy heavily, as well as the goatfish

 

[ejsanchez92399]

Dose anyone QT their Anthias with Copperpower or prazipro protocols at all? I have a chance to get a Ventralis anthias, BUT with how expensive they are I am unsure about using Copper, or what protocols I should use, since I have a tang gang in the DT i will be adding it to! Any advice recommendataion?

 

[Tcook]

Dose anyone QT their Anthias with Copperpower or prazipro protocols at all? I have a chance to get a Ventralis anthias, BUT with how expensive they are I am unsure about using Copper, or what protocols I should use, since I have a tang gang in the DT i will be adding it to! Any advice recommendataion?

If it is coming from a lfs you know and has been healthy you can consider keeping it in an observation tank for a few months. Getting it acclimated and eating well. Medicate if needed. I had three in observation that were doing well but then succumbed to uronema. That’s the risk though.