How to lower high Nitrates and phosphates while also removing cyanobacteria

nooks

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Hi all, I have 75 gallon that I made a post about about 3 months ago I was battling GHA, luckily 90% of it is gone at this point but I am now facing cyanobacteria. I think the cause of this was when fighting GHA I had really high phosphates and nitrates which I still do just little bit lowered they currently reading Nitrate 25 PPM (salifert, unsure if these are really accurate as colours go from 25-50 PPM) Phosphates are at 0.35 PPM (Hanna ULR). I used activated carbon, Power Phos and NoPox at different times. The last month I have been mainly using nopox due to my GHA residing and I thought was helping battle the GHA. But I suspect Nopox also casued Cynao as from what I read it is fuel for it to grow. What can I do to combat these 2 issues, without using carbon dosing or Chemiclean (will use if cyano starts smothering corals as last resort), I already peform 15% wc weeky, I have bubble magus curve 5 protein skimmer, filter media cup where I run filter floss plus activated carbon (also GFO if needed) refugium with Cheato growing and feed 1 cube of frozen a day with piece of nori for a tang. I was thinking of trying adding Microbactor7 and possibly hydrogen peroxide for the cyano but im at at loss for lowering the nitrates and phosphates.
 
Growing more macroalgae or an ats are good ways to reduce nutrients

The best ways to deal with cyano are not to reduce nutrients, but are manual removal, decreased organics, and higher flow.
 
Growing more macroalgae or an ats are good ways to reduce nutrients

The best ways to deal with cyano are not to reduce nutrients, but are manual removal, decreased organics, and higher flow.
For macroalgea do I need to add different types of algea or should i just add stronger light as im currently just using a cheap clip on light that is mainly whites little reds and no blues on some cheato. As for ATS I dont think I have enough room in my sump let a lone the cost on one of these units. For cyano i currently running two Jebao MLW-20s on each end on top of my return nozzle.
 
As already mentioned. keep vacuuming it out while you get your nutrients in check.
 
I had a hard battle with green cyano. The only way I kicked it was to lower my lighting intensity and photo period down while manually removing it. Once it died off I was able to get nutrients back in check and slowly ramp the lights back up.
 

WHAT KIND OF TANKMATE DYNAMIC STANDS OUT MOST IN YOUR REEF?

  • A fish pair or group that sticks together

    Votes: 2 40.0%
  • Some other kind of symbiotic pairing (fish & shrimp, crab and anemone, etc)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • A cleaner shrimp or fish with regular clients

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • A fish that has adopted a coral or anemone

    Votes: 2 40.0%
  • An unexpected friendship between different tankmates

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • A persistent rivalry or territorial feud

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No standout tankmate dynamic yet

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other (Post in the comments)

    Votes: 1 20.0%
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