How to read the API copper test kit?

[Steve1500]

I have seen several posts about the API copper test kit but could not find the proper way to read the results. Looking down from above the glass vial, do you hold the bottom of vial above the color chart or do you set the vial on the chart (up agains it)? If held just above, how far...1/8", 1/2"?

Thanks!

 

[deedubz]

You'll want to hold it ~1/4-1/2" above

 

[melypr1985]

Yup ^^ Always looking at it from above.

 

[Humblefish]

FWIW; below is what 1.5ppm (minimum therapeutic) looks like with API taken outside (flat on the white part & raised up):

This one was taken inside under a white kitchen light:

 

[Steve1500]

Thanks Humble, so do you recommend I let it set flat on the paper or raise it? Flat is more consistent but most people say raise it slightly.

On another note, how would you Treat a mandarin in QT for ich (as a preventative measure)? If I had to feed pods, would the copper kill them? Or is TTM a better method for mandarins?

 

[deedubz]

Thanks Humble, so do you recommend I let it set flat on the paper or raise it? Flat is more consistent but most people say raise it slightly.

On another note, how would you Treat a mandarin in QT for ich (as a preventative measure)? If I had to feed pods, would the copper kill them? Or is TTM a better method for mandarins?

If you have it directly on the card the color will be darker. I double checked my API card with my Hanna checker (once it came in) and it read 1.78ppm.
I'd try to match the color to Humble's pictures be it on or off the card. As in- match his on card photo and his off card photo to be sure(as you can, photos do skew the color slightly)

I'd recommend ttm. Pods won't survive copper and the dragonet won't survive the 30 days without them. It'll be expensive, but I bought a bottle per tank when I did ttm. Ideally, you'd do an observation period after ttm (with any other fish) but the odds of a mandy showing symptoms are slim to none. I'd just make sure there is ZERO equipment sharing and make sure you transfer as little water as possible between transfers. Make sure all equipment and tanks are 100% dry before reusing

 

[Steve1500]

If you have it directly on the card the color will be darker. I double checked my API card with my Hanna checker (once it came in) and it read 1.78ppm.
I'd try to match the color to Humble's pictures be it on or off the card. As in- match his on card photo and his off card photo to be sure(as you can, photos do skew the color slightly)

I'd recommend ttm. Pods won't survive copper and the dragonet won't survive the 30 days without them. It'll be expensive, but I bought a bottle per tank when I did ttm. Ideally, you'd do an observation period after ttm (with any other fish) but the odds of a mandy showing symptoms are slim to none. I'd just make sure there is ZERO equipment sharing and make sure you transfer as little water as possible between transfers. Make sure all equipment and tanks are 100% dry before reusing

Thanks! Per your original post, I assume you raised the vial off the card ~1/4-1/2?". What did your card read in comparison with the Hanna at 1.78ppm? Trying to find out if the API test kit reads hi or low...understanding there are many variables that may skew results.

 

[deedubz]

Thanks! Per your original post, I assume you raised the vial off the card ~1/4-1/2?". What did your card read in comparison with the Hanna at 1.78ppm? Trying to find out if the API test kit reads hi or low...understanding there are many variables that may skew results.

Yes, I was looking from about 1/2" above. It's kind of hard to explain.. The vial looked orange, but not as orange as 2.0 if that makes sense? My API seemed to be fairly accurate. I figured it was somewhere between 1.5-1.75 when the Hanna read 1.78.

What copper are you using?

 

[Steve1500]

I’m using coppersafe. I’ve used it before and I think it is safe to use.

I know what you mean about the colors and API kit. Frustrating. Was thinking about getting the Hanna but this is my last batch of fish that I will use copper on.

 

[deedubz]

I used coppersafe this last go too. If you feel like posting the batch number I can compare it to mine? I think I was dosing .89ml-1.07ml per gallon. The .89 got me around 1.75ppm, while 1.07 ended up being 2.06ppm(or right around there)

 

[jr60]

I am trying to remove all copper using Cuprisorb however my levels are not detectable on the API test kit, I cannot see any evidence of copper. My test for copper came back from ICP at 214 PPB which is quite low on the API test scale for detection. I need levels below 100 PPB or better. Are there any alternatives to the Hannah test kit which is very expensive which is supposed to go down to .01 PPM.

I think the seachem multitest is the answer for my means but now my question is now how long does Cuprisorp take and would really make any difference since these GSPs seem to have some very bizarre requirements that I cannot put a finger on, heard it said that this organism like dirty water but what does that mean ? I had previous success alongside bubble algae and dinoflagellate, the GSP seemed to thrive. Even more strange is that my tests were coming back zero nitrate and phosphates. All the standard test for calcium, magnesium, KH, salinity, nitrate, nitrate and phosphate were monitored.