How would YOU measure these final plumbing cuts?

[Schulks]

All done. Hopefully the leak test goes well tomorrow!

 

[Schulks]

I had leaks in the 2.5" drain bulkhead but my giant pliers were able to squeeze in and tighten them away.

It seems the only leak is in about the worst location..



I have an extra union piece for the uv if I have to but I might try and use my vac to suck glue into it. Is that a good idea?

 

[UncommonSense]

I had leaks in the 2.5" drain bulkhead but my giant pliers were able to squeeze in and tighten them away.

It seems the only leak is in about the worst location..



I have an extra union piece for the uv if I have to but I might try and use my vac to suck glue into it. Is that a good idea?

I doubt you’ll get enough “suck” to do much…

You could always add some glue to the interior of the fitting? There’s already two unions right there to pop that section out!

 

[Schulks]

I doubt you’ll get enough “suck” to do much…

You could always add some glue to the interior of the fitting? There’s already two unions right there to pop that section out!

I did not think that would work. So just swab a heavy amount of glue on the inside of the joint?

 

[UncommonSense]

I did not think that would work. So just swab a heavy amount of glue on the inside of the joint?

It can work! Possibly try curing a thin long shaving of PVC off pipe or a fitting to use as a “filler rod”, dissolving it into the seam between the cut pipe end, and the elbow’s socket shoulder…

Lacking access for that, you can literally just add glue, then wipe around the seam with a finger thoroughly to deform the PVC in that area once the glue (technically solvent welding cement) softens the PVC in that area!

This would be completely inappropriate as a fix for a system running at city water pressure; but is often successful in our low pressure impeller pump applications!

Edit: you can also use the PVC filler rod technique on the exterior of the socket/pipe joint in this low pressure application! — why not do both?

 

[Schulks]

Alright that's fixed. I couldn't reach it very well so I swabbed solvent around the inside and worked it in really well. Good stuff! Thanks @UncommonSense

But my drain bulkheads started leaking again so I tightened them even more and it stopped.

Now I've tinkered with the drain setup and valves, and now it is running whisper quiet!



Luckily I read a thread about modular marine overflows being loud but someone knew the proper setup was to raise the water level in the overflow to near the weir water level.

 

[UncommonSense]

Alright that's fixed. I couldn't reach it very well so I swabbed solvent around the inside and worked it in really well. Good stuff! Thanks @UncommonSense

But my drain bulkheads started leaking again so I tightened them even more and it stopped.

Now I've tinkered with the drain setup and valves, and now it is running whisper quiet!



Luckily I read a thread about modular marine overflows being loud but someone knew the proper setup was to raise the water level in the overflow to near the weir water level.

Nice work! I’m glad the shade tree repair trick did its job!

This tank’s going to look fantastic when it’s all said and done! Good job!!

It’s satisfying too, isn’t it? Admiring my ideas working in the real world is my favorite part about DIY!

 

[Schulks]

Oh yes! It is extremely satisfying.

It is turning out amazing! I honestly can't stop staring at it xD I am really impressed with myself.

But there is more to do! Time to cut the lid!



Also.. When drilling the aquarium I realized 2 of the corners have a silicone bead that was not smoothed out properly. I got ahead of myself and didn't notice before drilling. Maybe it was the 1.5 month wait for the aquarium to arrive. o.O

I think this is a protective bead they placed over the actual aquarium seal. Someone was a bit clumsy and forgot to smooth out the top half of 2 of the seams.



Would smoothing out another bead of silicone over that be a good idea? I'm completely new to silicone too!

 

[UncommonSense]

Oh yes! It is extremely satisfying.

It is turning out amazing! I honestly can't stop staring at it xD I am really impressed with myself.

To this day I look back on some of the things I built as a young man and am surprised at how well I did things, despite effectively knowing less… I think this will be a case where you’ll be pleased with this for years to come!

But there is more to do! Time to cut the lid!

Awesome! Going polycarbonate?

Also.. When drilling the aquarium I realized 2 of the corners have a silicone bead that was not smoothed out properly. I got ahead of myself and didn't notice before drilling. Maybe it was the 1.5 month wait for the aquarium to arrive. o.O

I think this is a protective bead they placed over the actual aquarium seal. Someone was a bit clumsy and forgot to smooth out the top half of 2 of the seams.

Meh, this is purely cosmetic, I see nothing alarming in your photos!

Would smoothing out another bead of silicone over that be a good idea? I'm completely new to silicone too!

I wouldn’t mess with it, personally! For starters, you’d need to have the tank dry for a full week after application to let it cure… then there's the new to old silicone adhesion problem, and the generally messy nature of silicone sealant! (Ever used roofing tar? Yeah… it’s like that; gets absolutely everywhere, wiping doesn’t clean it off easily, etc… you saw the mess I made of that first sump for my LFS!)

 

[Schulks]

Awesome! Going polycarbonate?


Meh, this is purely cosmetic, I see nothing alarming in your photos!

I'm just resizing my old diy red sea lid. I might order a fancy plastic one later on.

And that is good to hear about the seam. It is a bit difficult to picture but I'll be safe around the corners. It isn't a red sea at least lol

 

[Schulks]

There is no space at the back of the tank for my plank feeder. I am very sad.

I could fit it in this corner if I use no locline on the uv return.. I am extremely tempted but that has some hurdles to figure out..



It limits the speed of the uv to very slow. If turned up it starts making noise and splashing off the feeder.

I already plan to run the uv very slow but adjusting the speed was part of the fun tho.

I also cant get slower flow without a return nozzle that is restricting flow or adjusting the ball valves. I'd rather depend a nozzle so the gate valve alone controls flow. Id have better flow management. Maybe it doesnt matter..

I'd also need a grate or something so fish cant visit the UV sterilizer. Lol

Edit: ya not sure this is practical :/

 

[CBonito]

Licensed plumber here just eyeball it cut your pieces long dry fit and adjust and dry fit again eventually you get really good at it hahaha

Exactly, you just fail until you develop an intuition for it.

 

[UncommonSense]

There is no space at the back of the tank for my plank feeder. I am very sad.

Just to play devil’s advocate… is there any reason you can’t put an NPT reducer bushing on the flange side of the bulkhead, then proceed to drill a hole, or cut a U slot in that feeder tube to fit around a ~3” NPT sprinkler riser pipe?— this moved the plumbing out past the feeder tube so you can just install loc-line from there!

 

[Schulks]

Just to play devil’s advocate… is there any reason you can’t put an NPT reducer bushing on the flange side of the bulkhead, then proceed to drill a hole, or cut a U slot in that feeder tube to fit around a ~3” NPT sprinkler riser pipe?— this moved the plumbing out past the feeder tube so you can just install loc-line from there!

So run the plumbing through the mixing chamber?

That could work but might impact the whirlpool inside the mixing chamber. There is a sicce pump that goes in this chamber and it makes a cyclone to suck the food down into the water column.

I cant decide if the pipe would be too big or not.

This is 1/2" pipe i had.



I only need 200 gph for most of the time. I might turn it up for algae control but 300 to 400 gph should be enough for about 60 gallons total water.

Could one of these low profile strainers work?



This one is 1" so it wont fit and I might replace my threaded flange side for a slip so I can get it more low profile like this.

 

[Schulks]

With the low profile strainer I would just use ball valves to create resistance. Perhaps I could just mark a line on the ball valve to line up so it is consistent

Edit: maybe i should not use the mixer half of the plank and just use the feeder with a magnetic surface food ring.

Ill have to see what works.

 

[UncommonSense]

With the low profile strainer I would just use ball valves to create resistance. Perhaps I could just mark a line on the ball valve to line up so it is consistent

Edit: maybe i should not use the mixer half of the plank and just use the feeder with a magnetic surface food ring.

I’ll have to see what works.

Sorry, life called!

Hmm… the strainer looks like it would probably squeeze in there if you got it in whatever size that bulkhead is!

Alternatively, what about having the plumbing discharge inside the plank mixing chamber to free up a pump, and make that return do double duty? — I believe loc-line elbows and tees exist!

The ball valve will be your primary means of flow adjustment (for flow <300gph), regardless of the nozzle design you pick; unless you use like a 1/4”-3/8” RFG that is comically restrictive!

 

[UncommonSense]

I only need 200 gph for most of the time. I might turn it up for algae control but 300 to 400 gph should be enough for about 60 gallons total water.

I recently had my ~205G freshwater system’s vacation algae bloom under control in 5 days via 49W of UV @200-250gph… This was fed and returned to the return pump chamber of the sump; very inefficient plumbing!

You’ll be set even at a lower flow rate; just don’t power the UV 24/7; only as-needed!

 

[UncommonSense]

There is no space at the back of the tank for my plank feeder. I am very sad.

I could fit it in this corner if I use no locline on the uv return.. I am extremely tempted but that has some hurdles to figure out..



It limits the speed of the uv to very slow. If turned up it starts making noise and splashing off the feeder.

I already plan to run the uv very slow but adjusting the speed was part of the fun tho.

I also cant get slower flow without a return nozzle that is restricting flow or adjusting the ball valves. I'd rather depend a nozzle so the gate valve alone controls flow. Id have better flow management. Maybe it doesnt matter..

I'd also need a grate or something so fish cant visit the UV sterilizer. Lol

Edit: ya not sure this is practical :/

I just looked at this photo again while in less of a rush…

Now, I’m not quite sure how this plank bracket is assembled; but it really, really looks like those two screws in the center of the flat platform can be loosened to slide the platform and mixing chamber further in/out of the tank relative to the tank rim clamp!

Am I barking up the wrong tree here?

 

[Schulks]

Sorry, life called!

Alternatively, what about having the plumbing discharge inside the plank mixing chamber to free up a pump, and make that return do double duty? — I believe loc-line elbows and tees exist!

Not a problem, life is important !

I considered discharging in the chamber but I like how the feeder works now. The cyclone kind of slow releases the food and hydrates freeze dried stuff.

If i had to I would go through it but the strainer seems really nice. It would distribute the food as it is released.

I like the strainer a lot right now.

 

[Schulks]

I just looked at this photo again while in less of a rush…

Now, I’m not quite sure how this plank bracket is assembled; but it really, really looks like those two screws in the center of the flat platform can be loosened to slide the platform and mixing chamber further in/out of the tank relative to the tank rim clamp!

Am I barking up the wrong tree here?

You are correct but to get a secure placement i am trying to keep it glass on both sides. I could attempt to rig it in front of the weir. It would take more DIY effort tho!

I recently had my ~205G freshwater system’s vacation algae bloom under control in 5 days via 49W of UV @200-250gph… This was fed and returned to the return pump chamber of the sump; very inefficient plumbing!

You’ll be set even at a lower flow rate; just don’t power the UV 24/7; only as-needed!

I wanted an oversized uv to nuke fish parasites. Most manufacturer list a flow rate for freshwater ich but I believe marine ich takes a much larger amount of uv exposure. I believe to get enough exposure to kill ich it takes 200 or less gph in my 40w. Any smaller of a uv and I have to go too far under manufacturer recommendations to reach my target.

I like to run the uv at night when the phytoplankton isn't growing anyway. :)