Hulley's RSR 350 v3. W/Clarisea Filter Roller.

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What's the inlet size on the clarisea? I have a 350 reefer I think it 32mm on return pipe?

I went with 1" pvc but I had to wrap the pipe with teflon tape a few times. Now, the Clarisea website states 32mm but mine had a 1" marking on it, I could've glued it as is but wrapped it for a tighter fit in case I wanted to disassemble it later.

Edit: I hard plumbed off the Red sea drains so I'm not sure if the stock drain will fit the Clarisea.
 

mta_morrow

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Nice plumbing job and documentation!

It looks great.

I run 1 mesh and 1 cloth filter sock in my reefer and am considering the Clarisea.

May I ask how much the roll costs to replace?

I know I will be replacing it a lot as I have a lot of fish and feed heavy

Thanks!
 
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Nice plumbing job and documentation!

It looks great.

I run 1 mesh and 1 cloth filter sock in my reefer and am considering the Clarisea.

May I ask how much the roll costs to replace?

I know I will be replacing it a lot as I have a lot of fish and feed heavy

Thanks!

Hey Mike!
I have the 6" model so the rolls are $29 each, my first roll lasted 26 days and I'm reading that the first roll goes the quickest, after that people are going 6-8 weeks on a roll. I also had mine adjusted for max filtration as I wanted the water cleaned up as soon as possible, now I have a pass though valve opened slightly and the water is still very clear and water parameters are great.

The lack of hassle with changing socks make it worth it for me. :) Having no skimmer (for now) and a filter roller with auto ATO makes this a very low maintenance tank.
 

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Hey Mike!
I have the 6" model so the rolls are $29 each, my first roll lasted 26 days and I'm reading that the first roll goes the quickest, after that people are going 6-8 weeks on a roll. I also had mine adjusted for max filtration as I wanted the water cleaned up as soon as possible, now I have a pass though valve opened slightly and the water is still very clear and water parameters are great.

The lack of hassle with changing socks make it worth it for me. :) Having no skimmer (for now) and a filter roller with auto ATO makes this a very low maintenance tank.

Excellent! Thanks so much for sharing!

I believe I see one in my future!
 
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Hey everyone, my Red SSF has been looking a little rough lately and today it looks pretty bad, the body is real puffy looking and there are pale spots all over. I haven't check all the water parameters yet but will shortly, everything else in the tank looks great, fish and corals.
He has been eating every day as normal and really cruises around the tank, he just looks pretty bad at the moment.

Any ideas?

RSS.jpg


Red Star.jpg
 

mta_morrow

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Hey everyone, my Red SSF has been looking a little rough lately and today it looks pretty bad, the body is real puffy looking and there are pale spots all over. I haven't check all the water parameters yet but will shortly, everything else in the tank looks great, fish and corals.
He has been eating every day as normal and really cruises around the tank, he just looks pretty bad at the moment.

Any ideas?

RSS.jpg


Red Star.jpg

Hey buddy, I think you should post this in the invert forum as well. Or disease forum.

I think you will get more experienced eyes looking at it there IMHO.

Beautiful star for sure!
 
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Hey buddy, I think you should post this in the invert forum as well. Or disease forum.

I think you will get more experienced eyes looking at it there IMHO.

Beautiful star for sure!

Thanks, I posted in the main discussion and got nothing, I'll delete that thread and go over to the inverts.
 

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Thanks, I posted in the main discussion and got nothing, I'll delete that thread and go over to the inverts.

Feel free to call in the reefsquad!

It’s Christmas Eve and there may not be many folks on today.

We gotta get you some help if we can!
 
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Ok, I did a little update over the New Years break.
Luckily for me, my office sits right above the corner of the basement where the main water line comes in and a plumbed (unfinished) bathroom resides.
I mounted the BRS RO/DI unit to the concrete wall with some standard anchors, plumbed the feed line into the main water line.
ATO2.jpg

Close-up of the adapter I made. 3/4" CPVC Teeing off into a 1/2" CPVC ball valve with a threaded adapter for a 1/4" push fit line.
ATO3.jpg

A look at which way the lines are running. The blue line is directly below the tank, I was able to run it straight up to the outlet that my Apex is powering the tank. The black line is the waste water and I have it tapped into the drain for the sink in the unfinished bathroom.
ATO1.jpg

The Avast Marine 12v solenoid valve. This valve defaults (no power) in the closed position and is attached to a float valve for a little bit of redundant fail safe. I'm running a Avast Marine ATO system that utilizes an air pressure switch which is then hooked up to my Apex.
ATO4.jpg

This is located on the dry side of the cabinet. I bought a blank switch plate, drilled it out and used a BRS adapter for the 1/4" line and then an additional hole for the wires to the solenoid valve. This is directly above where the valve is located.
ATO5.jpg


I'm not sure how long I'll keep it this way as I'm wanting to build a water mixing station and automate the water change process using the Apex DOS. I'm somewhat concerned with a never ending supply of water being attached to the tank but there are several fail-safes in place both mechanically and electronically, plus I work from home most of the time so it's very easy to check on the tank. Also, according to the TDS meter, the incoming water is a 1-2 so I don't think I'll go through the resin that fast, plus, the resin is not that much money and easy to change out.

Let me know what you think! I'm happy to not have a 5 gallon bucket next to the tank, let alone having to fill it up every 4 days. :)
 

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Ok, I did a little update over the New Years break.
Luckily for me, my office sits right above the corner of the basement where the main water line comes in and a plumbed (unfinished) bathroom resides.
I mounted the BRS RO/DI unit to the concrete wall with some standard anchors, plumbed the feed line into the main water line.
ATO2.jpg

Close-up of the adapter I made. 3/4" CPVC Teeing off into a 1/2" CPVC ball valve with a threaded adapter for a 1/4" push fit line.
ATO3.jpg

A look at which way the lines are running. The blue line is directly below the tank, I was able to run it straight up to the outlet that my Apex is powering the tank. The black line is the waste water and I have it tapped into the drain for the sink in the unfinished bathroom.
ATO1.jpg

The Avast Marine 12v solenoid valve. This valve defaults (no power) in the closed position and is attached to a float valve for a little bit of redundant fail safe. I'm running a Avast Marine ATO system that utilizes an air pressure switch which is then hooked up to my Apex.
ATO4.jpg

This is located on the dry side of the cabinet. I bought a blank switch plate, drilled it out and used a BRS adapter for the 1/4" line and then an additional hole for the wires to the solenoid valve. This is directly above where the valve is located.
ATO5.jpg


I'm not sure how long I'll keep it this way as I'm wanting to build a water mixing station and automate the water change process using the Apex DOS. I'm somewhat concerned with a never ending supply of water being attached to the tank but there are several fail-safes in place both mechanically and electronically, plus I work from home most of the time so it's very easy to check on the tank. Also, according to the TDS meter, the incoming water is a 1-2 so I don't think I'll go through the resin that fast, plus, the resin is not that much money and easy to change out.

Let me know what you think! I'm happy to not have a 5 gallon bucket next to the tank, let alone having to fill it up every 4 days. :)

Looks great! I would love to do something like this.

I would have to thru my attic and inside a wall.

At least I have a 12 gallon ATO reservoir that lasts 18-20 days.
 
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Quick update:

Changed out another filter roll, this time got 39 days out of the roll.

Got rid of the refugium, I like a clean sump and didn't see much growth from the chaeto....I'll keep an eye on the nutrients to see if it made a difference.
 

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Quick update:

Changed out another filter roll, this time got 39 days out of the roll.

Got rid of the refugium, I like a clean sump and didn't see much growth from the chaeto....I'll keep an eye on the nutrients to see if it made a difference.

You may already do this, if so just ignore me but stapling the new roll to the old roll on your clarisea is a fast/easy way to change to a new roll.

tanks looking great, good luck with your starfish!
 
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You may already do this, if so just ignore me but stapling the new roll to the old roll on your clarisea is a fast/easy way to change to a new roll.

tanks looking great, good luck with your starfish!

Yep, although this time I removed the roller to clean up the algae growing on it due to the refugium light.

Thank you and the starfish seems to be doing better now that I'm feeding him chunks of food!
 
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Thats amazing! thanks for the idea, I will be doing this as well. I dont like how the ATO reservoir is in the way of everything plus its very cumbersome to fill.

Honestly, it's probably one of the best set-ups I've ever done. I have not had to fill up a ATO reservoir since I set this up. There are a couple mechanical back up, plus 2 electronic back ups, plus the Apex will shut it off of the switch stays open for more than 4 minutes. When the switch is triggered, it takes 2-3 minutes to refill, so a 4 minute timer is more than enough.
 

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Honestly, it's probably one of the best set-ups I've ever done. I have not had to fill up a ATO reservoir since I set this up. There are a couple mechanical back up, plus 2 electronic back ups, plus the Apex will shut it off of the switch stays open for more than 4 minutes. When the switch is triggered, it takes 2-3 minutes to refill, so a 4 minute timer is more than enough.
Do you know off hand if it will work with an Apex classic? Also, did you use any sort of splitter from the RODI output to your saltwater mixing vat?

Edit: I confirmed it does work with a classic.
 
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Do you know off hand if it will work with an Apex classic? Also, did you use any sort of splitter from the RODI output to your saltwater mixing vat?

Pretty sure it'll work with the Apex Classic only because the ATO system I use is Apex specific but not Classic vs 2016.

It's a pretty simple set-up, the water level sensor in the sump tells the Apex when to send a 12v signal, which in this case is the switch instead of the pump. So I left the original water level sensor, replaced the ATO pump with the 12v switch and hooked up the water line directly to the 12v switch instead of a reservoir tank.

Before I had Water level sensor -> Apex -> diaphram pump -> water reservoir
Now it's Water level sensor -> Apex -> 12v Switch -> water line from RO/DI unit -> main water line into house.
 

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