I am a fool bought a clown a petco and he has developed ich
- Thread starter Aidanwolf
- Start date
- Tagged users None
kichimark
Well-Known Member
If he is the only fish and you have no corals I would just hypo the tank. You can remove the algae to a tub with a light while you are doing this method. This way you are treating the entire tank and not using any chemicals/copper that may be absorbed in the rock.
BigRedReefer MT
Active Member
LOL. That's the spirit, take the good with the bad. As mentioned above you could go buy a small 5 gallon tank with a small HOB power filter. Just put some PVC pipe in the bottom to create some cover, add some bottled bacteria and Bam, a new qt. Read the link above for sure, and as questions arise feel free to ask. I would suggest @HotRocks , and @4FordFamily in conjunction with @Humblefish for any questions and complications. These folks know their stuff and super helpful
OP
OP
Aidanwolf
Well-Known Member
Okay how about coral and invertebrates don't I need to quarantine them too. And dont they need to be in a separate tank. If not would it be possible to put invertebrates into the tank while the ich is dying off because I do not believe the can get ich.
Yes...keep the inverts in the MD while treating the fish separately. Just remember to feed them a bit of food now and then. 
Keep the sick tank simple. No need to go to great expense IMO. A container (I like to use a 10 gal cheap Walmart tank), an appropriate sized heater, a few PVC pipe pieces for hiding and a HOB filter with plain floss, no carbon. If you're using CopperPower to kill the pathogen, it pays to pick up an ammonia badge as test kits provide false readings after copper is added. : https://www.chewy.com/seachem-alert...MIwsvxxOzL4AIVxB-tBh1tOgEzEAQYBSABEgJgyPD_BwE
BTW, if using CopperPower, or any copper, ramp up slowly to medicinal level. CopperPower says you can ramp up to 2.5 but in most cases only a consistent level of 1.7 to 2. is needed to kill ich and velvet. Clowns tolerate this level well in my experience.
Don't use ammonia/nitrite/nitrate reducers with copper or you'll make the water toxic. Instead, fill your tank with water from the main display (your going to nuke it anyway so any pathogens in it will die a painful death once you start treating with the copper and your fish is already acclimated to the water so you can just transfer it as soon as you catch it. Grab some plain floss media from the MD as well if you have it to jump start the cycle... That's if the MD is completely cycled? I like to keep a few balls of Marine Pure in my MD to seed a sick tank when an emergency setup is needed. I never have a spike in ammonia/nitrite when using Marine Pure as a start up. Still, my experience and yours could be different and careful monitoring is always a must when using chemicals that can harm our fish. Sand or rocks from the MD are not recommended to seed the sick tank for a couple of reasons. First, they are generally unusable after treatment except in another sick tank. Second, they absorb the copper and may release it making the levels of copper go toxic if the PH drops. You can also buy some bacteria in a bottle, though it takes longer for the sick tank to fully cycle that way.
Finally, and most important I think. Get a Hannah High Range copper tester and monitor copper levels carefully every day because you want to keep the copper level at medicinal levels without a low, which means you'll need to start treatment over, or a high, which means a quick water change is in order to protect the livestock. https://hannainst.com/hi702-copper-...MIjeLW7e_L4AIV2h-tBh2WeQKnEAQYASABEgKbqvD_BwE.
Others here may have alternate ways of setting up an emergency sick tank. This is just my way and it works well for me.
Good luck!
Keep the sick tank simple. No need to go to great expense IMO. A container (I like to use a 10 gal cheap Walmart tank), an appropriate sized heater, a few PVC pipe pieces for hiding and a HOB filter with plain floss, no carbon. If you're using CopperPower to kill the pathogen, it pays to pick up an ammonia badge as test kits provide false readings after copper is added. : https://www.chewy.com/seachem-alert...MIwsvxxOzL4AIVxB-tBh1tOgEzEAQYBSABEgJgyPD_BwE
BTW, if using CopperPower, or any copper, ramp up slowly to medicinal level. CopperPower says you can ramp up to 2.5 but in most cases only a consistent level of 1.7 to 2. is needed to kill ich and velvet. Clowns tolerate this level well in my experience.
Don't use ammonia/nitrite/nitrate reducers with copper or you'll make the water toxic. Instead, fill your tank with water from the main display (your going to nuke it anyway so any pathogens in it will die a painful death once you start treating with the copper and your fish is already acclimated to the water so you can just transfer it as soon as you catch it. Grab some plain floss media from the MD as well if you have it to jump start the cycle... That's if the MD is completely cycled? I like to keep a few balls of Marine Pure in my MD to seed a sick tank when an emergency setup is needed. I never have a spike in ammonia/nitrite when using Marine Pure as a start up. Still, my experience and yours could be different and careful monitoring is always a must when using chemicals that can harm our fish. Sand or rocks from the MD are not recommended to seed the sick tank for a couple of reasons. First, they are generally unusable after treatment except in another sick tank. Second, they absorb the copper and may release it making the levels of copper go toxic if the PH drops. You can also buy some bacteria in a bottle, though it takes longer for the sick tank to fully cycle that way.
Finally, and most important I think. Get a Hannah High Range copper tester and monitor copper levels carefully every day because you want to keep the copper level at medicinal levels without a low, which means you'll need to start treatment over, or a high, which means a quick water change is in order to protect the livestock. https://hannainst.com/hi702-copper-...MIjeLW7e_L4AIV2h-tBh2WeQKnEAQYASABEgKbqvD_BwE.
Others here may have alternate ways of setting up an emergency sick tank. This is just my way and it works well for me.
Good luck!
Last edited:
HotRocks
Fish Fanatic!
Staff member
Super Moderator
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
Expert Contributor
Article Contributor
INDMAS Member
My Tank Thread
All coral and inverts are good to be in the tank during fallow period.
I do recommend QTing all new coral and inverts before adding to a DT. Dips and such will remove coral pests but not fish parasites. I have used Rubbermaid totes for QTing coral and inverts.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.334584/
OP
OP
Aidanwolf
Well-Known Member
Thanks so I would need to set up two quarantine tanks for fish and coral,inverts.
HotRocks
Fish Fanatic!
Staff member
Super Moderator
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
Expert Contributor
Article Contributor
INDMAS Member
My Tank Thread
Correct.
1 for fish (I use 2 QTs for my method on fish alone.)
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/
1 for coral and inverts. If you are actively adding them.
HotRocks
Fish Fanatic!
Staff member
Super Moderator
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
Expert Contributor
Article Contributor
INDMAS Member
My Tank Thread
When it rains it pours.
Probably not on the beeping. All of the ones I've ever used beep until silenced (with a backup that has that option). Or the power is restored.
BigRedReefer MT
Active Member
Good news. Did you do a freshwater dip or a full on medicated bath?
Similar threads
