I have no idea but want to add a manifold...please help

[Cristy17]

Far as the noise, guess it depends on the pump. Have seen it work big time on some, not so much on other. Know it can’t hurt.
Venturi effect is when water is rushing by the tee where chiller returns to return line, it creates s vacuum. Most skimmer pumps pull air into skimmer in this, venturi way. Not necessarily a bad thing, unless it pulls a lot faster than the pump pushing it through the chiller on the other side can’t keep up. Then that pump gets “dragged”, and could make noise, and won’t be good for it’s lifespan. Just don’t see why you wouldn’t just return chiller to section that houses return pump. Would also eliminate the chiller pump, since you’re doing a manifold.
Well really, would keep the return pump for tank separate. So you have a better idea of what your gph is making it to tank. But that’s not what you were asking, and many people have very successful tanks with the return on a manifold

Great explanation on Venturi...I think that is what is causing a whistling sound that happens every so often in my tank. It sounds like a ghost! Lol. I had started another thread a few months ago trying to figure it out and thought it was the pipes inside the overflow, but then it started again after I had made some adjustments that I thought had corrected the problem. I will be getting rid of that T tomorrow, actually, later today!
So you are thinking I should just keep my return pump and then have a separate manifold for all the other equipment? So would I then add a second return to run the manifold? What would be the advantage to this if I am understanding it right?

 

[theMeat]

Great explanation on Venturi...I think that is what is causing a whistling sound that happens every so often in my tank. It sounds like a ghost! Lol. I had started another thread a few months ago trying to figure it out and thought it was the pipes inside the overflow, but then it started again after I had made some adjustments that I thought had corrected the problem. I will be getting rid of that T tomorrow, actually, later today!
So you are thinking I should just keep my return pump and then have a separate manifold for all the other equipment? So would I then add a second return to run the manifold? What would be the advantage to this if I am understanding it right?

Unless you have a controller or other means of measuring how many gph are flowing to any given item, with a manifold it’s a guess. Open or close any one valve being fed by that manifold, and all other items fed by that manifold gph changes too. Looks sweet, but i’d rather know with more certainty how many gph are going to everything, especially the display
My two cents

 

[Super Fly]

I've added few flexible hoses to my manifold to feed the skimmer, gfo reactor and one tube to carry out water changes. Each line has it's own valve to control pressure. For water change, I fill the sump with new saltwater, let it run for appx 10 mins then drain the sump via this flexible tube. No more having to put my hands into tank to fill drain tube and create prime to drain. One thing using this method, cannot siphon sand/substrate but I'm using a DSB so this method works great for me!

Noise from flexible hose will come if it's running and the tube is touching side of sump, creating vibration noise.

 

[Cristy17]

I've added few flexible hoses to my manifold to feed the skimmer, gfo reactor and one tube to carry out water changes. Each line has it's own valve to control pressure. For water change, I fill the sump with new saltwater, let it run for appx 10 mins then drain the sump via this flexible tube. No more having to put my hands into tank to fill drain tube and create prime to drain. One thing using this method, cannot siphon sand/substrate but I'm using a DSB so this method works great for me!

Noise from flexible hose will come if it's running and the tube is touching side of sump, creating vibration noise.

I just saw this! I apologize. I am interested in the way you are changing water. Since I am planning to have an extra barb connector at the end of my manifold, can I just use that to attach it to a hose that goes to a drain to take the water out? Do I fill the sump while it is running so as not to overflow it? And if so, do you shut down all the valves to the equipment while you do the draining and filling?

 

[Cristy17]

Just a quick update! I finally got the courage to go and get all the plumbing pipes from a local distributor! They are located in Sarasota and the guy there was SUPER helpful! I believe his name was Keith and he works at PNR Pluming. I told him what I wanted to do, showed him pictures of my current sump plumbing and then we began to piece it together. This is what I have. I did notice I put the manifold after the valve which in re-reading this thread, is a bad idea. He suggested ball valves and I told him you all recommended gate valves. He said he did not have them in stock and would need to order them so I went with the ball valves. I am considering just ordering the gate valves my self through the distributor that was recommended on this thread and returning then ones I purchased. So here is the first set up picture...

 

[theMeat]

Looks great
Personally would run silicone from pump up closer to manifold to eliminate as many elbows as possible . As well it will isolate pump vibration. Don’t know what restricts your layout but the straighter the run the more efficient/gph you will produce

 

[Cristy17]

Looks great
Personally would run silicone from pump up closer to manifold to eliminate as many elbows as possible . As well it will isolate pump vibration. Don’t know what restricts your layout but the straighter the run the more efficient/gph you will produce

Thanks for your input! The reason I was running PVC to the pump is because of the size of the connection ring that came on the pump..I will try a couple different set ups and put up more pictures when I have them. Thank you again!

 

[Cristy17]

Ok here is a new configuration where I can completely turn off the manifold and remove it. I also added a union to the pipe coming out of the pump for cleaning. I have two unions that are the same ID but different OD..either would work I think. Does anyone have an idea why one would be preferred over the other?

 

[Cristy17]

Opps! Forgot the picture..

 

[dbl]

Looks good. Either union will work if the ID's are the same. I would recommend gate valves if possible on the manifold outlets because they are far easier to dial in more accurately. The ball values will work if gates aren't an option.

 

[Devaji]

yes gate valves would be better but if you can't spring for the $$ ( there not cheap) at least get a better ball valve. I got my from supply house, and there pretty darn good maybe not gate valve good but a lot better than hardware store ball valves.

I will be doing 1" black soft tubing coming off the RT pump about 8" or so. either way will work as long as and hard PVC not rubbing up against the sump, might not be a big issue as you have a sump room.

 

[Chuk]

You have to make sure the pressure from your main return isn’t above the pressure from you chiller pump after the chiller or you won’t get any flow through that line because if the tee into the return line. If the return header is at higher pressure it basically acts like a shut valve flow-wise the chiller pump will run back on its curve to match the return pump pressure. If the return pressure is above the deadhead pressure of the chiller pump you get no flow.
You can test it out to see if it works as designed after checking the pump curves but have a backup plan to route to a different spot if the pressures are off.

 

[Devaji]

FYI here are the ball valves I will be using there built very well and are true union too!
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Red-Flag-Products-1405GST-1-2-Gray-PVC-True-Union-Ball-Valve
If I remember correct they come with slip and thread fitting all for a great price.

they seem better built than the non spears gate valve I got from amazon for my full siphon. but like I said if you can afford spears G.V get those.

 

[Cristy17]

You have to make sure the pressure from your main return isn’t above the pressure from you chiller pump after the chiller or you won’t get any flow through that line because if the tee into the return line. If the return header is at higher pressure it basically acts like a shut valve flow-wise the chiller pump will run back on its curve to match the return pump pressure. If the return pressure is above the deadhead pressure of the chiller pump you get no flow.
You can test it out to see if it works as designed after checking the pump curves but have a backup plan to route to a different spot if the pressures are off.

Thanks, I will test the pressures and see what they are. Thank you.

 

[Cristy17]

FYI here are the ball valves I will be using there built very well and are true union too!
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Red-Flag-Products-1405GST-1-2-Gray-PVC-True-Union-Ball-Valve
If I remember correct they come with slip and thread fitting all for a great price.

they seem better built than the non spears gate valve I got from amazon for my full siphon. but like I said if you can afford spears G.V get those.

Yes this is the same one I am using to be able to remove the manifold for cleaning or what not. everyone has recommended the gate valves so I am leaning to return the ball valves I purchased and get the gate valves although they are bulky.

 

[Super Fly]

I just saw this! I apologize. I am interested in the way you are changing water. Since I am planning to have an extra barb connector at the end of my manifold, can I just use that to attach it to a hose that goes to a drain to take the water out?

yes you can. make sure it has a shut off valve.

Do I fill the sump while it is running so as not to overflow it?

yes, I fill sump up to few inches short of the very top. But be mindful that if there is power outage during this time, the sump will flood and overflow.

And if so, do you shut down all the valves to the equipment while you do the draining and filling?

no, I leave everything open but don;t think it matters.

 

[Cristy17]

Finally did the plumbing for the new return pump, manifold, and flow meters. It was every bit of 3 1/2 hours with two of us planning, measuring, cutting, dry fitting, and glueing. Glad its over! Here is a before and after picture. I have not attached the chiller or the Avast zeovit shaker. I am planing to use soft tubing coming off an elbow with barbs. The new pump is extremely strong for my 75 DT and 30 sump! I only have one overflow pipe, which is dropping a lot of water into the sock cups. I have the pump only running at 50%, anymore and it will flood the tank! Believe me, I almost did that! The only issue I am having is the whistling on the overflow. I believe it is a venturi issue. How can I fix that please? Its driving me nuts! Thanks! Ignore the thick black tubing, thats the chiller line which

will be replaced and nicely mounted around the wall. Also, I moved the rocks just to get the pump in. Most are back in the last chamber. Although, is there any negative effects by keeping some in the skimmer chamber?

 

[Cristy17]

One more thing. I know most people recommended the gate valves, unfortunately, I had limited space for the manifold before it reached the return pipe, so I had to use the ball valves. If it becomes a problem and I am not getting enough control with the ball valves, I can remove the manifold and make a new one with gate valves but only if I move the return pipe. I am afraid to do anything with the return pipe because it leaked when we did this plumbing and it took some patience to stop the leak and a lot of towels, not to mention stressing me out!