I need a little help please

[Timcee88]

I recently bought a biocube 32 on 8/4 and my local aquarium store walked me through everything. I set it up that same day and dumped in a bottle of Fritz turbo 900. I held off on fish but the shop said I could technically put fish in there that day. I waited until the 8/9 to add two clown fish all while waiting on my water test kit. I finally got the kit yesterday and I tested the water to find maybe concerning readings. I did a 20% water change last night and still got the same levels so the big bottle of fritzyme 9 arrived today and I added the established tank amount just now. I have 2 big hermits in there since day one due to my wife accidentally bringing them home from the beach as well as a couple tiny snails and the clowns. Could you give me a little input on what to do or if everything is ok and it just takes more time. My current water readings below. Thank you!

8/12/26
Salinity-1.028
Ammonia-.50ppm
Nitrite-1.0ppm
Nitrate-15ppm
High range PH-7.8-8

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I’d keep watching. If the fish look bad, do more water changes.

The numbers are ok, and the tank may be adequately cycled. Folks usually dose ammonia and verify it drops, but Fritz turbo is pretty fast at taking care of ammonia.

Nitrite is no concern. The nitrate is also no concern.

The ammonia is adequately low now. It may rise, and if it does, watch that it does not get much higher before doing water changes.

Salinity is high, if accurate. How was it measured? I’d remove some salt water and replace with ro/di or distilled.

 

[skidmarkstevie]

Settle down there Timmy, patience my friend.

I dont know how you got that much nitrate in 3 days but that aint right. Are you using tap water with chloramine/free ammonia? Feeding way too much? Peeing in your tank? Where did you source your live rock/sand?

If youre going to stock fish before your cycle is fully established, I highly advise using something like seachem prime for the health and well being of your fish.

Ammonia and nitrite are toxic to fish, but also a necessary stage of the nitrification cycle.

In short I dont think you need to add more bacteria, I think you just need to bind ammonia/nitrite to make it safe for fish until the cycle is complete. Also, keep an eye on alkalinity as it will likely fall a bit as you establish your bacteria population.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

The nitrate is false high from the nitrite, which interferes with the nitrate test. Don’t worry about a nitrate measurement until nitrite is full zero.

IMO, Seachem Prime is a wasted, ineffective product based on tests folks have run. I do not recommend it.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Nitrite is not toxic to marine fish at any levels attainable.

 

[skidmarkstevie]

I think anything with a plastic bottle and a label is a ripoff but that doesn't mean its not convenient or serve its purpose.

I THINK 1ppm free ammonia is toxic to fish. I have seen enough to believe it. I have seen fish survive 2ppm for a week with prime without gasping or other signs of toxicity. Ive seen gasping fish return to normal behaviour within hours after dosing prime. Ive seen fish return to gasping after not dosing prime in water with 2ppm after 48 hours. Shoot me. Reading free/total ammonia isn't the only way to test effectiveness. I have seen consistent enough repeatable results to blame ammonia. I do think water changes are best, but I think prime is easier and provides an extra safe buffer especially for beginners. Then you can reduce nitrates with water changes once cycle completes.

Randy is undeniably correct on nitrite. While it is toxic to fish, the marine(salt) environment makes it much less detrimental to their health at achievable concentrations. As a water/wastewater treatment operator my knowledge blends sometimes so thank you for that.

Ive kept my diverse range of tanks alive from Randys posts for the last 20 years. Id listen to Randy.

But if Randy wasnt looking, and I was going to stock an empty tank the first day, I would add bacteria just as you did and still put some prime in there because I have had 100% success rate with it and have seen it bring on favorable conditions in my tanks early on. A small bottle costs nothing in the grand scheme of things.

 

[Fish Fan]

I recently bought a biocube 32 on 8/4 and my local aquarium store walked me through everything. I set it up that same day and dumped in a bottle of Fritz turbo 900. I held off on fish but the shop said I could technically put fish in there that day. I waited until the 8/9 to add two clown fish all while waiting on my water test kit. I finally got the kit yesterday and I tested the water to find maybe concerning readings. I did a 20% water change last night and still got the same levels so the big bottle of fritzyme 9 arrived today and I added the established tank amount just now. I have 2 big hermits in there since day one due to my wife accidentally bringing them home from the beach as well as a couple tiny snails and the clowns. Could you give me a little input on what to do or if everything is ok and it just takes more time. My current water readings below. Thank you!

8/12/26
Salinity-1.028
Ammonia-.50ppm
Nitrite-1.0ppm
Nitrate-15ppm
High range PH-7.8-8

Welcome newer member!

I see nothing alarming in your numbers, but please listen to Randy Holmes-Farley here

I'd ask, what are you using for testing? From the "pH High Range", I am going to assume the ATI kits. The ATI kits don't get a lot of love here on R2R, but I believe they are fine, at least for cycling a tank; look for trends, not solid numbers.

But, there seems to be an issue with the API ammonia test where it often reads about 0.25 ppm for ammonia, when other indicators (such as the age of the tank) would suggest that the concentration is much lower. For this reason, I wouldn't wait for the API ammonia test to report 0.0 ppm, I'd consider anything at about 0.25 ppm or under zero, and move on

Good luck!

 

[Pod_01]

I THINK 1ppm free ammonia is toxic to fish. I have seen enough to believe it. I have seen fish survive 2ppm for a week with prime without gasping or other signs of toxicity. Ive seen gasping fish return to normal behaviour within hours after dosing prime.

Is that freshwater or saltwater observation?
Ammonia is not as toxic in saltwater and many of us dose it because it is prefer coral N source.

In freshwater Prime may do something, in saltwater it does not work as advertised.

Below is good read on the subject of Prime,

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/a...prime-cloram-x-rongalite-and-friends.1064206/

 

[skidmarkstevie]

Is that freshwater or saltwater observation?
Ammonia is not as toxic in saltwater and many of us dose it because it is prefer coral N source.

In freshwater Prime may do something, in saltwater it does not work as advertised.

Below is good read on the subject of Prime,

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/a...prime-cloram-x-rongalite-and-friends.1064206/

Both and I dont think its a coincidence but i suppose its possible. I admit the most dramatic display was in a freshwater tank with guppies. After that i had a pair of clowns that wanted to stay on the bottom lethargic or "yawning" as well as gasping at surface occasionally was remedied immediately with prime. If your new tank has any measurable ammonia I would bet your fish are less lethargic with a little prime during that first week.

Ammonia is a more available source of N for lots of things that grow with photosynthesis...

I dont think its cure all, I dont think its 100% efficient, I think it works enough to use as a safety net during your cycle. When a new fish keeper has not established cycle, water changes, feeding, stocking, etc, its enough to provide a safety net that gives piece of mind if anything. I only think things, and know nothing.

That being said. I have a 6 gallon qt tank id be willing to stuff a clown in with 3ppm of ammonia for a week with prime. Anyone want to do 3ppm without it and see how it goes?

 

[Timcee88]

I’d keep watching. If the fish look bad, do more water changes.

The numbers are ok, and the tank may be adequately cycled. Folks usually dose ammonia and verify it drops, but Fritz turbo is pretty fast at taking care of ammonia.

Nitrite is no concern. The nitrate is also no concern.

The ammonia is adequately low now. It may rise, and if it does, watch that it does not get much higher before doing water changes.

Salinity is high, if accurate. How was it measured? I’d remove some salt water and replace with ro/di or distilled.

Ok, thank you I will do that today. It was measured with a refractometer.

 

[Timcee88]

Settle down there Timmy, patience my friend.

I dont know how you got that much nitrate in 3 days but that aint right. Are you using tap water with chloramine/free ammonia? Feeding way too much? Peeing in your tank? Where did you source your live rock/sand?

If youre going to stock fish before your cycle is fully established, I highly advise using something like seachem prime for the health and well being of your fish.

Ammonia and nitrite are toxic to fish, but also a necessary stage of the nitrification cycle.

In short I dont think you need to add more bacteria, I think you just need to bind ammonia/nitrite to make it safe for fish until the cycle is complete. Also, keep an eye on alkalinity as it will likely fall a bit as you establish your bacteria population.

I used ro/di water with salt added that I get from the shop. The live rock came sealed in box from caribsea and live sand from caribsea as well

 

[Timcee88]

I THINK 1ppm free ammonia is toxic to fish. I have seen enough to believe it. I have seen fish survive 2ppm for a week with prime without gasping or other signs of toxicity. Ive seen gasping fish return to normal behaviour within hours after dosing prime.

Is that freshwater or saltwater observation?
Ammonia is not as toxic in saltwater and many of us dose it because it is prefer coral N source.

In freshwater Prime may do something, in saltwater it does not work as advertised.

Below is good read on the subject of Prime,

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/a...prime-cloram-x-rongalite-and-friends.1064206/

It is a saltwater observation

 

[Timcee88]

I’d keep watching. If the fish look bad, do more water changes.

The numbers are ok, and the tank may be adequately cycled. Folks usually dose ammonia and verify it drops, but Fritz turbo is pretty fast at taking care of ammonia.

Nitrite is no concern. The nitrate is also no concern.

The ammonia is adequately low now. It may rise, and if it does, watch that it does not get much higher before doing water changes.

Salinity is high, if accurate. How was it measured? I’d remove some salt water and replace with ro/di or distilled.

Ok, thank you I will do that today. It was measured with a refractometer.

Ok will do. Thank you! The livestock haven’t been acting off so far. I will keep an eye on them.

 

[Timcee88]

I recently bought a biocube 32 on 8/4 and my local aquarium store walked me through everything. I set it up that same day and dumped in a bottle of Fritz turbo 900. I held off on fish but the shop said I could technically put fish in there that day. I waited until the 8/9 to add two clown fish all while waiting on my water test kit. I finally got the kit yesterday and I tested the water to find maybe concerning readings. I did a 20% water change last night and still got the same levels so the big bottle of fritzyme 9 arrived today and I added the established tank amount just now. I have 2 big hermits in there since day one due to my wife accidentally bringing them home from the beach as well as a couple tiny snails and the clowns. Could you give me a little input on what to do or if everything is ok and it just takes more time. My current water readings below. Thank you!

8/12/26
Salinity-1.028
Ammonia-.50ppm
Nitrite-1.0ppm
Nitrate-15ppm
High range PH-7.8-8

Welcome newer member!

I see nothing alarming in your numbers, but please listen to Randy Holmes-Farley here

I'd ask, what are you using for testing? From the "pH High Range", I am going to assume the ATI kits. The ATI kits don't get a lot of love here on R2R, but I believe they are fine, at least for cycling a tank; look for trends, not solid numbers.

But, there seems to be an issue with the API ammonia test where it often reads about 0.25 ppm for ammonia, when other indicators (such as the age of the tank) would suggest that the concentration is much lower. For this reason, I wouldn't wait for the API ammonia test to report 0.0 ppm, I'd consider anything at about 0.25 ppm or under zero, and move on

Good luck!

Yeah it’s the api master test kit. Ok, what is a better test kit that you guys suggest. I’m new to this so I read a ton of stuff and see api over and over so figured it was a decent option lol

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

IMO you are going pretty fast, looks like you added the fish before the cycle was complete. Adding fish before you have test kits is taking chances with an animals life, its like driving without a speedometer. I would just suggest to slow down, don't add fish for a few more weeks. Can you post a tank picture?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Yeah it’s the api master test kit. Ok, what is a better test kit that you guys suggest. I’m new to this so I read a ton of stuff and see api over and over so figured it was a decent option lol

The api is adequate for cycling, but it often shows a small amount (0.5 ppm or less) of ammonia when there is none. Higher values are generally real.

You won’t need a nitrite kit and after cycling won’t use an ammonia kit, so don’t rush to replace it.

For future kits, alkalinity is the next need.

On the salinity, you should calibrate the refractometer with a diy salinity standard (commercial salinity standards seem unexpectedly poor quality).

This tell how:

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/reef-aquarium-salinity-diy-calibration-standards.956/