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I Need Help With Dinos. Pls im Desperate

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Dark_Knightt

Dark_Knightt

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That's why you need to stop doing water changes, and water changes brings back addition trace elements that will fuel dinos.

So if your dosing trace elements on the side, then stop dosing them as well.

Give @Idoc 's temp change ago. I did not work on my strain, but it works with other strains.
Alright ill start raising temp.
 

[email protected]@it

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Would it be possible to maybe like buy bubble algae or something to just add to outcompete? Ive tried the micron sock before, it didnt work out.
You really should try a combination of feeding more, dose KNO3 and KH2PO4, and reef roids. The point is to sustain an elevated level of nutrients to keep feeding the nuisance algae once they take a hold and there needs to be an excess in the water column too while doing this.

There are a lot success stories on this forum and you received a lot of good suggestions. It was trial and error and don't give up just because you tried it a day. It's a long process and you have to be in it for the long haul. Most of people who got dinos was because their nutrient levels bottomed out. Raising nitrate and phosphates should be your first priority but that doesn't mean you will eradicate dinos with just doing that you will need to have a plan of action. Dinos can be beaten, just don't give up.
 

vetteguy53081

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Ill start this tomorrow then. Oh and what kind of hydrogen peroxide do i buy? Concentrated, 100%, or a more diluted form?
just the regular stuff 3% you find at walmart. walgreens or grocery store
 

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That's why you need to stop doing water changes, and water changes brings back addition trace elements that will fuel dinos.

So if your dosing trace elements on the side, then stop dosing them as well.

Give @Idoc 's temp change ago. I did not work on my strain, but it works with other strains.
+1 above
 
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Dark_Knightt

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just the regular stuff 3% you find at walmart. walgreens or grocery store
Im in Canada we dont have Walgreens lol :(( we also dont have those caramel things with the white sugar stuff in the middle... ;Drool but yeah i hear ya. thanks a lot, will get onto that as soon as i get sme hydrogen peroxide
 

GoVols

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Which strain did you have where raising the temp didn't work?
I'm on the back end and never scoped it.

It's the red cobweb type with real long stands that has a ton of bubbles within it.

For a while I just let it go until the glass was almost covered, and the dino strands were starting to grow out while cob webbing to the glass.

Raised temp to 82 degrees for a week and it did not affect this strain, but per Reefbuilders, it does work with some strains.

After over three months in, just happy that it seems to be on its final leg, with a few laid down patches to go.

Put in some old live rock from the garage while re-scaping, Cyano hit first, then dinos took a stronghold before good bacteria growth could kick in... ;Eggonface

The only other time was early 2015 with the snotty green type. Running ULNS and fell off the edge.
 

jcorndogg

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I tried many of the things people have already mentioned..... temp increase, increased feeding to raise N/P, reduced photoperiod, etc. and wasn’t having any success.

The method of how I ultimately beat mine is detailed below. It’s worth mentioning that I was able to do so without a species or microscope or chemical treatment. I was pretty close to buying a microscope when I started seeing results. Obviously, since I didn’t have species id, there’s no guarantee this will work for you.

- extremely reduced fish feeding schedule (3x week tops) on one of the off feeding days, I added a 3” square of nori. Stop ALL coral feeding products.

-reduce lightning schedule. I turned of my 250W MH entirely and ran reefbrite blue LEDs max 9hrs/day.

-manual dosing of N and P. I started seeing a reduction of Dino at 5 N and .03 P. After 3 weeks at 10 N and .04-.05 P, they were eliminated.

- eliminate water changes (the purpose is to tightly control your nutrients)

-manual removal with a turkey baster ONLY before the lights go out at night.

- Replace filter sock nightly after manual removal. Use the turkey baster. Then, siphon as much as possible into the filter sock. When basting, I tried to not only blow off the algae, but also blow off all detritus building in the rock work. I run barebottom and would siphon everything out once settled. The goal was for my tightly controlled dosing of N/P to be the sole source of nutrients.

Good luck!
 

Grimreefer89

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I had success when i raised my nitrates over time... then i ran a uv 24/7 for a week till it started to knock them back... after that i cleaned my rock in the tank with a brush to get as much as i could waterborne and used a cannister filter to suck up the top layer of substrate till i had a clean surface and cranked up the flow to keep as much waterborne as i could while i ran the uv sterilizer. i did all this at one time. Started dosing stability with every water change. So far ive been dino free... i think the uv sterilizer was the key to my success.
 

Mjl714

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In the past, I found this thread to most helpful:

 

Nick428

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Do you have chaeto or caulerpa in a refugium? Turning my refugium lights off for some reason made it disappear in my display after about 3 days.

Turning it on brought it right back.

Its a very annoying complex problem unfortunately.
 
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Dark_Knightt

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In the past, I found this thread to most helpful:

Thanks i need this
 

TheDuude

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Dosing N&P, turning off skimmer, and vacuuming sandbed through my UV has worked for me. I have just a small patch of dino left. I also cut water changes way back and stopped dosing everything else aside from n&p. Let the glass and tank get dirty for a couple weeks.
 
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