ICH On My Display Tank Treatment Advice.

riosouza

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Hello guys,

I hope you all have a good Christmas!
Two days ago after a 30% water change, I noticed white spots on my Powder Brown and Two Spot Bristletooth tang, which leads me to believe it's Ich.
In my DT I have about 18 fishes (14 small and 3 mid size tangs and 1x Foxface), few pieces of LPS corals and two anemones, and CUC. Since my corals are not attached to my large rocks, I was thinking on keeping the fish and remove the corals and inverts to a QT with proper lighting.
This way I spare the fish immunity from more stress, and myself from removing all my aquascape rocks while treating my entire DT tank for 6-8 weeks with Paraguard Seachem.
Then since Paraguard effects only last 24 hours after the last dose, I am planing on place my corals and inverts back to DT after the 6-8 weeks treatment period.
The white spots disappeared after 24 hours, and I assume they fell off to start the cycling to come back anytime soon. I want to deal with it ASAP and kill this plague before they come back and spread to my other fishes.
Would this be a safe route?
Anyone have successfully doing this?
Hypo-salinity, higher temperatures or any other suggestion for the treatment?

Thanks!

20191225_224623.jpg 20191227_110503.jpg
 

Squidward

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Unfortunately no. Cupramine is copper. Your best bet is to take all the fish out of the display and treat them with copper or TTM.(Yes I know that's gonna be tough and a huge hassle):( And leave the display tank fallow for about 75 - 80 days. Yes it's a brutal wait time, but it's the only way to get rid of ich in your display.
 
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riosouza

riosouza

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I never used copper.
But I've read about many fishes perishing during the copper treatment.
Would TT 14-20 days be a safer and efficient treatment or is there any other safer advice?
Also, while I have the fish in the QT tank do I have to remove all the corals from my DT or corals and rocks will not host the ich?
Thanks again guys!
 

Khoinpham

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Hello guys,

I hope you all have a good Christmas!
Two days ago after a 30% water change, I noticed white spots on my Powder Brown and Two Spot Bristletooth tang, which leads me to believe it's Ich.
In my DT I have about 18 fishes (14 small and 3 mid size tangs and 1x Foxface), few pieces of LPS corals and two anemones, and CUC. Since my corals are not attached to my large rocks, I was thinking on keeping the fish and remove the corals and inverts to a QT with proper lighting.
This way I spare the fish immunity from more stress, and myself from removing all my aquascape rocks while treating my entire DT tank for 6-8 weeks with Paraguard Seachem.
Then since Paraguard effects only last 24 hours after the last dose, I am planing on place my corals and inverts back to DT after the 6-8 weeks treatment period.
The white spots disappeared after 24 hours, and I assume they fell off to start the cycling to come back anytime soon. I want to deal with it ASAP and kill this plague before they come back and spread to my other fishes.
Would this be a safe route?
Anyone have successfully doing this?
Hypo-salinity, higher temperatures or any other suggestion for the treatment?

Thanks!

20191225_224623.jpg 20191227_110503.jpg
If u don’t have a lot of coral. Remove few coral a lot easier than catch fish . I know a lot of u love copper. But it'll kill everything in your tank. What i did for mine was SLOWLY to hypo 1.009 over 2 week ( too fast bacteria die off u have ammonia spike, will kill your fish). Take out all carbon, but keep p.skimmer run 24/7. When i at 1.009, i dose rid-ick plus slowly increase to 1.5x recommend dose for 6 weeks. I only lost R.gramma. this is only my experience FOLWLR. Good luck
 
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nereefpat

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Would TT 14-20 days be a safer and efficient treatment or is there any other safer advice?
Also, while I have the fish in the QT tank do I have to remove all the corals from my DT or corals and rocks will not host the ich?
Thanks again guys!

Tank transfer method works great for ich if performed correctly.

You do Not need to remove anything from the display, other than ALL fish.
 
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riosouza

riosouza

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I can remove my all my corals to a QT and it to hypo-salinity of 1.009.
But from 0-10 how efficient this method will be against ich?
If I take the TT route for 16 days, how long the darn ich will take to die in the fishless DT?
What would be most efficient yet safe method to deal with ich?
Any personal experience and suggested method will be appreciated.
 

Khoinpham

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OP has corals
OP has corals
remove your coral if you can. Rid-ich plus will stripes oxygen from water that why u need combine it with hypo( low salinity increase oxygen). It work for me with 10 fishes ( include my $$$$gem tang). If not work with u it doesn’t harm anything inside your tank even bio and fish.
 

Khoinpham

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I can remove my all my corals to a QT and it to hypo-salinity of 1.009.
But from 0-10 how efficient this method will be against ich?
If I take the TT route for 16 days, how long the darn ich will take to die in the fishless DT?
What would be most efficient yet safe method to deal with ich?
Any personal experience and suggested method will be appreciated.
Hypo kill ich but slowly . Also is the safer way to deal with ich or fluke, any method is 50/50 change.
 

4FordFamily

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Let’s keep this thread friendly and helpful. That’s what we are all about here at R2R.

To the op, unfortunately copper is your best bet. Particularly because this may be velvet and it will treat both. TTM nor hyposalinity treat velvet, and it’s every bit as common and I am fairly certain it is a culprit.

The other option is chloroquine phosphate.
 

Clownfish2

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Hello guys,

I hope you all have a good Christmas!
Two days ago after a 30% water change, I noticed white spots on my Powder Brown and Two Spot Bristletooth tang, which leads me to believe it's Ich.
In my DT I have about 18 fishes (14 small and 3 mid size tangs and 1x Foxface), few pieces of LPS corals and two anemones, and CUC. Since my corals are not attached to my large rocks, I was thinking on keeping the fish and remove the corals and inverts to a QT with proper lighting.
This way I spare the fish immunity from more stress, and myself from removing all my aquascape rocks while treating my entire DT tank for 6-8 weeks with Paraguard Seachem.
Then since Paraguard effects only last 24 hours after the last dose, I am planing on place my corals and inverts back to DT after the 6-8 weeks treatment period.
The white spots disappeared after 24 hours, and I assume they fell off to start the cycling to come back anytime soon. I want to deal with it ASAP and kill this plague before they come back and spread to my other fishes.
Would this be a safe route?
Anyone have successfully doing this?
Hypo-salinity, higher temperatures or any other suggestion for the treatment?

Thanks!

20191225_224623.jpg 20191227_110503.jpg

I would recommend copper in a quarantine tank with all the fish. It’s difficult to maintain proper copper concentration in a display with rock and sand.

i have used hyposalinity 1.009 for months and months at a time in a quarantine tank, but never could stop the white spots with it.
 
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riosouza

riosouza

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Thanks!
My problem is that I do not have a long term QT large enough for all my fish load.

Is below a feasible and possible proceedure?
Remove all corals to a QT, place all my live rock and sand to plastic container with a bubbler and treat all my fish with copper in my bare DT for the next 30 days.
Then after 80 days put all my live rock and sand back to my well cleaned DT?
 
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4FordFamily

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Thanks!
My problem is that I do not have a long term QT large enough for all my fish load.

Is below a feasible and possible proceedure?
Remove all corals to a QT, place all my live rock and sand to plastic container with a bubbler and treat all my fish with copper in my bare DT for the next 30 days.
Then after 80 days put all my live rock and sand back to my well cleaned DT?
Here is my thread on the subject. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-remove-copper-from-dt.326316/
 

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