Ick or flukes

peter86

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Hi all just upgraded to a 6ft tank ( will be making a build thread soon ) and since changing over my royal blue and purple tang have got some white spots now looking closely at them (only way of describing) they are dangley white bits rather than just spots so is this ick or flukes I have tried to get some pics but as always they won't stay still little bit of help required before treating both eating well royal blue little bit stressed but only to be expected from tank move if you zoom in on the purple probably the best pic royal blue is worse than the purple tho

PXL_20230830_132333357.MP.jpg PXL_20230830_132440197.jpg PXL_20230830_132445918.jpg PXL_20230830_132359982.jpg
 
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peter86

peter86

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Long story short quarantined from new still got ick went fallow for 1 and half months copper treatment with all fish in separate tanks put back in week later got ich so have been managing ick with UV and good diet and water never had out break since even with new fish new swapping over to new tank would probably cause a few spots but all good healthy size only reason for asking question as it seems different this time due to white bits that seem to be hanging off of skin rather then just spots

Trying to get better photos but won't stay still for long enough lol you know how it is and don't want to catch her and cause more stress
 

sc50964

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regardless of which, there isn’t an effective reef safe meds. If you got a QT available, copper is the common med to treat both. Use coppersafe or power.
 

vetteguy53081

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Hi all just upgraded to a 6ft tank ( will be making a build thread soon ) and since changing over my royal blue and purple tang have got some white spots now looking closely at them (only way of describing) they are dangley white bits rather than just spots so is this ick or flukes I have tried to get some pics but as always they won't stay still little bit of help required before treating both eating well royal blue little bit stressed but only to be expected from tank move if you zoom in on the purple probably the best pic royal blue is worse than the purple tho

PXL_20230830_132333357.MP.jpg PXL_20230830_132440197.jpg PXL_20230830_132445918.jpg PXL_20230830_132359982.jpg
Appears to be ich. Flukes you cannot see with naked eye but rather symptoms with exception of neobenendia. To confirm ich, will need pics under white light intensity as these pics are heavy in blue lighting
 
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peter86

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Appears to be ich. Flukes you cannot see with naked eye but rather symptoms with exception of neobenendia. To confirm ich, will need pics under white light intensity as these pics are heavy in blue lighting
Most likely ich again then as I say I did go fallow for a 1.5 months but didn't work so managed in old tank will slow my UV down and get the food supplements out do some bigger water changes each week seemed to work last time and could add new fish with out getting spots thank you for the help
 

vetteguy53081

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Most likely ich again then as I say I did go fallow for a 1.5 months but didn't work so managed in old tank will slow my UV down and get the food supplements out do some bigger water changes each week seemed to work last time and could add new fish with out getting spots thank you for the help
If you are positive its ich, fallow would have taken care of tank but the Quarantine would be in question. Typically you would treat with coppersafe or copper Power for a full 30 days at treatment level 2.25-2.5 . Unless you ended treatment period prematurely or ran a lower copper level, this should have taken care of issue.
UV will help but with free floating protozoans and not the ones , if any on the fish.
 
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peter86

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If you are positive its ich, fallow would have taken care of tank but the Quarantine would be in question. Typically you would treat with coppersafe or copper Power for a full 30 days at treatment level 2.25-2.5 . Unless you ended treatment period prematurely or ran a lower copper level, this should have taken care of issue.
UV will help but with free floating protozoans and not the ones , if any on the fish.
I did copper for 3 weeks at 2.0 with 2 100 % water changes also with copper at 2.0 then another 100% after the 2 weeks display was left fallow for 1.5 months with only coral and inverts in quarantine tanks were in a separate room and I kept my hands out of display while this was going on as not to cross contaminate after no visible signs in fish and fallow period over transferred back and with in a week they had spots again so ended up managing after that seemed to go quite well only fish that died that I tried to add to tank was copper band but think this was due to not eating.
 

vetteguy53081

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I did copper for 3 weeks at 2.0 with 2 100 % water changes also with copper at 2.0 then another 100% after the 2 weeks display was left fallow for 1.5 months with only coral and inverts in quarantine tanks were in a separate room and I kept my hands out of display while this was going on as not to cross contaminate after no visible signs in fish and fallow period over transferred back and with in a week they had spots again so ended up managing after that seemed to go quite well only fish that died that I tried to add to tank was copper band but think this was due to not eating.
That may have been the issue- copper was not at full treatment strength and treatment cycle was cut short. CBB could very well as suspected starved and weakened
 
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peter86

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That may have been the issue- copper was not at full treatment strength and treatment cycle was cut short. CBB could very well as suspected starved and weakened
Was always led to believe copper should be at 2.0? maybe this is where I went wrong then
 

vetteguy53081

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Was always led to believe copper should be at 2.0? maybe this is where I went wrong then
2.0 will be for certain delicate fish but to clarify 2.5-2.5 and could be issue. Cupramine is .5
 
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vetteguy53081

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