In tank Tank Transfer Method for coral with ziplock bag- bag size?

Hal3134

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I just picked up a mushroom coral from a friend’s tank that has ich. I stripped off most but not all of the sand/pebble substrate that was attached to the mushroom. I dipped the mushroom in Bayer insect but as we all know, that doesn’t take care of ich.

I don’t currently have a quarantine tank available for reasons. I thought I’d put the mushroom coral in a ziplock bag, or two, and float that bag in my display tank. Then every 3 days I’ll put the mushroom into a new bag, and thus perform the TTM.

My question is what size sealed bag do I need to make sure the mushroom has enough oxygen for (ideally) 3 days?
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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I just picked up a mushroom coral from a friend’s tank that has ich. I stripped off most but not all of the sand/pebble substrate that was attached to the mushroom. I dipped the mushroom in Bayer insect but as we all know, that doesn’t take care of ich.

I don’t currently have a quarantine tank available for reasons. I thought I’d put the mushroom coral in a ziplock bag, or two, and float that bag in my display tank. Then every 3 days I’ll put the mushroom into a new bag, and thus perform the TTM.

My question is what size sealed bag do I need to make sure the mushroom has enough oxygen for (ideally) 3 days?
TTM is for fish. Without a fish to use as a host, any ich should die off on its own during a fallow period. I don't know how your method of using a ziplock bag will work ... If you even have a bucket that with a small heater and an airstone for movement, that would probably be a better option.
 
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Hal3134

Hal3134

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With respect, I’m not looking to debate TTM. I just want to know what size bag does a mushroom need to have sufficient oxygen. I’m going this route because I don’t have any light for the mushroom outside of my DT.
 

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With respect, I’m not looking to debate TTM. I just want to know what size bag does a mushroom need to have sufficient oxygen. I’m going this route because I don’t have any light for the mushroom outside of my DT.
Maybe talk to a vendor that ships coral...?
 

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I don't know if your idea is sound or will work, but if I were to try this idea, I would use a open top plastic container ( like the fish boxes they use at fish stores) that you can hang/clamp to the inside of your tank.
I would make sure the containers edge was a couple inches higher than the water level and that it was out of the current so no splashing were to occur around the container.
Keep the water level low in the container so none could splash out.
Change out the water every day.
It would have heat and light with an open top.

IDK, just spitballing here.
 

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I don't know if your idea is sound or will work, but if I were to try this idea, I would use a open top plastic container ( like the fish boxes they use at fish stores) that you can hang/clamp to the inside of your tank.
I would make sure the containers edge was a couple inches higher than the water level and that it was out of the current so no splashing were to occur around the container.
Keep the water level low in the container so none could splash out.
Change out the water every day.
It would have heat and light with an open top.

IDK, just spitballing here.
I was just going to say the same thing. Had to go look at the OP's other threads to see the tank size - they can use a relatively large container in a 250g!
 

Jay Hemdal

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With respect, I’m not looking to debate TTM. I just want to know what size bag does a mushroom need to have sufficient oxygen. I’m going this route because I don’t have any light for the mushroom outside of my DT.
It won’t work though - TTM is designed to outrun the sticky tomont stage by moving the fish. In this case, if there are any tomonts, they’ll move right along with the coral.

So how much of a risk is it to put the coral in your tank? Nobody can say, it all depends on if there are tomonts stuck to the base of the coral, and you can’t see them.

As far as the oxygen question - if you aerate the bag, that would ensure the oxygen level remains near saturation - but that in turn can aerosolize things from the coral’s bag water and out into your tank.

Jay
 

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In theory, keeping them completely separate should be fine provided the coral is getting what needs in the isolation vessel. In practice, as mentioned, that's not likely to stay isolated. Even aside from aerosolization, small splatters or pinhole leaks could contaminate the host tank, and trying to get a bag of suspect tankwater into a tank without getting a drop into it would be nigh impossible without special handling precautions. Unless you're used to clean room or sterile procedures already, it will be difficult to keep from habits which cross contaminate on hands, clothes, etc..

Personally, I don't think the risk is super high if it's only the coral itself (not rock its attached to) that's coming over, and I would consider dipping it as normal and then adding it as normal, but this is by no means a good recommendation for safety nor is it a substitute for better handling methods - it's myself allowing some laziness in a low risk situation.

If you don't have a QT, you can probably make do pretty well with a small powerhead in a bucket. Mushrooms are pretty durable, and half a bucket of saltwater with a 100-250gph or so AC pump would provide more than enough (well, too much, you would want to reduce the output) flow and plenty of heat. Then you can leave it in the bucket, performing a full TTM as you see fit, and so long as its getting some light, the coral will likely be fine, even for weeks.
 

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