Is it possible I’m getting ammonia but no phosphates from my “cured” dry rocks?

Fish Fan

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Hi guys! I hope I’ve posted this in the right forum section. It seems I have ammonia coming off some dry rocks that have been previously cured (I thought), but not cycled. I am getting off the charts ammonia levels with no nitrate or phosphate detectable. I’m puzzled because while I understand that my rock could contain organic material that would decompose and release ammonia and I also understand that I have not added any nitrogen consuming bacteria which explains the no nitrates, but shouldn’t I also be getting some phosphates too? If organic material is decomposing, surely phosphates would also be present, yet they are not, according to my Hannah Checker for low range phosphates. I am wondering if this is normal and if others have seen this situation? Do I still have organic matter in my rocks and should I continue to cure them before setting up the tank and starting the fishless cycle? I am in no hurry at all, so time is not an issue, nor am I trying to cut any corners. I am torn between bleaching/curing the rock further, or adding bacteria and using the ammonia from my rock to start my fishless cycle. Any suggestions?

Other info; this is for a 10 gallon IM Nuvo Fusion I am using as a chance to try new methodologies. Of interest here is that this is my first time using dry base rock and a fishless cycle. The rock in question is about 13 pounds of CarribSea base rock I purchase from a local store. I have also purchased the Reef Saver rocks from BRS and even some budget base rock I found on Amazon (these are for a different project) and for what it’s worth all three rocks *look* the same to me; all are very clean looking. To be honest, I didn’t think this rock needed much of a curing process because of how clean it looked, but because I wanted to try new things I subjected this rock to about a 48 hour bleach bath, rinsed well with RODI, then acid washed, rinsed, soaked in bleach again for about a week, rinsed, then placed in heated, circulated salt water for about three months while I was busy with a job change. I changed the saltwater out maybe three times, which I know weekly would have been better. I did no testing during this time because I figured all that bleach would certainly oxidize any remaining organic material in the rock.

Now I’m ready to start my fishless cycle with Doc Tim’s bottled ammonia and Bio-Spira, I have fresh saltwater and the rock and my sand (I did, in fact, subject the sand to my bleach/acid/bleach/cure process as well) going in the DT. Before adding Bio-Spira I decided to test the water for ammonia using an API brand test kit, and it was off the chart, way over the max 8 mg/L. I thought it might be the test kits, so I ordered the Red Sea and Salifert kits, and though I haven’t yet tried the Salifert kit the Red Sea ammonia kit is also off its chart. I’m getting zero nitrates with the API kit and with the Red Sea kit. I got zero nitrites with the API kit. I’m getting zero phosphates on the Hanna LR Phosphate Checker and an ATI phosphate Kit. Is this right that I’m getting no phosphates at this point, yet sky high ammonia?

Does anyone have any thoughts as to what’s going on? Again, I’m mostly confused by the lack of phosphates, and the best way to proceed from here.

Thank you very much for your time and help!
 

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Hi guys! I hope I’ve posted this in the right forum section. It seems I have ammonia coming off some dry rocks that have been previously cured (I thought), but not cycled. I am getting off the charts ammonia levels with no nitrate or phosphate detectable. I’m puzzled because while I understand that my rock could contain organic material that would decompose and release ammonia and I also understand that I have not added any nitrogen consuming bacteria which explains the no nitrates, but shouldn’t I also be getting some phosphates too? If organic material is decomposing, surely phosphates would also be present, yet they are not, according to my Hannah Checker for low range phosphates. I am wondering if this is normal and if others have seen this situation? Do I still have organic matter in my rocks and should I continue to cure them before setting up the tank and starting the fishless cycle? I am in no hurry at all, so time is not an issue, nor am I trying to cut any corners. I am torn between bleaching/curing the rock further, or adding bacteria and using the ammonia from my rock to start my fishless cycle. Any suggestions?

Other info; this is for a 10 gallon IM Nuvo Fusion I am using as a chance to try new methodologies. Of interest here is that this is my first time using dry base rock and a fishless cycle. The rock in question is about 13 pounds of CarribSea base rock I purchase from a local store. I have also purchased the Reef Saver rocks from BRS and even some budget base rock I found on Amazon (these are for a different project) and for what it’s worth all three rocks *look* the same to me; all are very clean looking. To be honest, I didn’t think this rock needed much of a curing process because of how clean it looked, but because I wanted to try new things I subjected this rock to about a 48 hour bleach bath, rinsed well with RODI, then acid washed, rinsed, soaked in bleach again for about a week, rinsed, then placed in heated, circulated salt water for about three months while I was busy with a job change. I changed the saltwater out maybe three times, which I know weekly would have been better. I did no testing during this time because I figured all that bleach would certainly oxidize any remaining organic material in the rock.

Now I’m ready to start my fishless cycle with Doc Tim’s bottled ammonia and Bio-Spira, I have fresh saltwater and the rock and my sand (I did, in fact, subject the sand to my bleach/acid/bleach/cure process as well) going in the DT. Before adding Bio-Spira I decided to test the water for ammonia using an API brand test kit, and it was off the chart, way over the max 8 mg/L. I thought it might be the test kits, so I ordered the Red Sea and Salifert kits, and though I haven’t yet tried the Salifert kit the Red Sea ammonia kit is also off its chart. I’m getting zero nitrates with the API kit and with the Red Sea kit. I got zero nitrites with the API kit. I’m getting zero phosphates on the Hanna LR Phosphate Checker and an ATI phosphate Kit. Is this right that I’m getting no phosphates at this point, yet sky high ammonia?

Does anyone have any thoughts as to what’s going on? Again, I’m mostly confused by the lack of phosphates, and the best way to proceed from here.

Thank you very much for your time and help!
How long has it been in this water for? It might be possible that the phosphorus is still bound in other forms than PO4 and needs to break down further before it can be read by a test kit.
 
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Where'd you the the rock from?

The Marco rock I used to start my tank didn't leach out phosphates at all. It took like 2 months to finally be able to process ammonia as well.
Hi! Thank you for the help. So are you saying you experienced the same high ammonia without the phosphates? I do understand that it may take a long time to build the biofilter when starting with dry rock. Do you think I should cure longer, or add bacteria and cycle?

Thank you again for your reply!

-FF
 
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How long has it been in this water for? It might be possible that the phosphorus is still bound in other forms than PO4 and needs to break down further before it can be read by a test kit.
Hi! Thanks for the reply! You may be right, I don’t know how long it takes for the phosphate to break down to where the checker and kits can detect them. I had fresh made, heated, circulating saltwater in the display tank with the rocks and sand for a good four or five days, then I did the ammonia test. When I first got the high ammonia reading, I did a full water change and in less than 24 hours I get the same high ammonia again.

What do you think I should do from here?

Thank you!

-FF
 

vetteguy53081

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I too think phosphorus and recommend seeding rock with well established rock added and adding a Good Bacteria supplement such as Dr. Tims, or Pohls Bacter start or zeo start.
 
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I too think phosphorus and recommend seeding rock with well established rock added and adding a Good Bacteria supplement such as Dr. Tims, or Pohls Bacter start or zeo start.
Hi! I’m not sure I follow, are you saying to just go forward with the cycle? I’m concerned I still have a lot of organic in the rocks and sand. I do intend to use BioSpira and/or possibly Stability. I do not wish to use seed rock, I don’t have any to use, and want to start as clean as I can with the bottled bacteria products.

Thank you for your help!

-FF
 

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Hi! Thank you for the help. So are you saying you experienced the same high ammonia without the phosphates? I do understand that it may take a long time to build the biofilter when starting with dry rock. Do you think I should cure longer, or add bacteria and cycle?

Thank you again for your reply!

-FF
I wouldn't try to cycle a tank with ammonia over 10ppm. It can be done but goes much slower. It also seems odd to me that ammonia is building up that quickly. It makes me question how accurate your ammonia test kit is. Could it be bad?

If you think you can go a few days from a large water change to ammonia reaching 10ppm you may be able to get away with doing that large change and adding a bottle or two of nitrifying bacteria.
 
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I wouldn't try to cycle a tank with ammonia over 10ppm. It can be done but goes much slower. It also seems odd to me that ammonia is building up that quickly. It makes me question how accurate your ammonia test kit is. Could it be bad?

If you think you can go a few days from a large water change to ammonia reaching 10ppm you may be able to get away with doing that large change and adding a bottle or two of nitrifying bacteria.
I agree with your concerns. If I was to go ahead with the cycle, I would do a 100% water change (keep in mind this is only a 10 gallon tank), and then dose the Bio-Spira. My thought was that might give the bacteria enough time to process some of the ammonia and maybe keep it down to a safe level. I know even the bacteria can suffer at levels above ~6 mg/L.

I have SEVERAL of the API test kits, some with expiration dates clearly indicated (and not expired for a while). I don’t buy these kits, I “acquire” them whenever I take in someone’s old setup. I had suspected that the API test kits might be faulty, so I ordered a brand new Red Sea test kit and same result; off the chart ammonia. I also bought the Salifert ammonia kit, I didn’t try it just yet because it seems likely that there really is ammonia present. I can run a Salifert this evening just to be absolutely certain.

I am tempted to bleach the rock again. Bleach is a strong oxidizer, and should degrade any organics present. However, I bleached THE HECK out of this rock previously. I, in fact, used full strength, 6% household bleach right out of the jug, no diluting with water, and the rock and sand soaked in that for over a week. Could it really need more time in the bleach? If so, I have 12.5% swimming pool chlorine I can try. I would really like to get anything organic out of the rock and sand before I start this tank for real.

Any further thoughts?

Thanks very much for the help!

-FF
 
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vetteguy53081

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Hi! I’m not sure I follow, are you saying to just go forward with the cycle? I’m concerned I still have a lot of organic in the rocks and sand. I do intend to use BioSpira and/or possibly Stability. I do not wish to use seed rock, I don’t have any to use, and want to start as clean as I can with the bottled bacteria products.

Thank you for your help!

-FF
Do not go forward. I thought this was intended for coral. I would bleach rock and cold water rinse and move forward with using it
 
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Do not go forward. I thought this was intended for coral. I would bleach rock and cold water rinse and move forward with using it
Thank you for the follow up. No, nothing alive at all yet, not even microbes. I have been leaning towards another round of bleach, but it’s hard to imagine it could need more. But I’d rather rid the rock of organics now if possible. I may try another round using straight swimming pool chlorine and see if that burns more of it off.

Thank you for your help!

-FF
 

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Thank you for the follow up. No, nothing alive at all yet, not even microbes. I have been leaning towards another round of bleach, but it’s hard to imagine it could need more. But I’d rather rid the rock of organics now if possible. I may try another round using straight swimming pool chlorine and see if that burns more of it off.

Thank you for your help!

-FF
I have a concern with the 1 week soak, if I understand correctly. It can take 2 or 3 months for really dirty "dry rock" to break down all of the organics. Bleach and/or Vinegar will help but it can still take a long time.

I think your best move is to hold off cycling and let this rock fully cure, even if it is in regular saltwater. Otherwise I fear you will be fighting all sorts of nutrient issues.
 
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I have a concern with the 1 week soak, if I understand correctly. It can take 2 or 3 months for really dirty "dry rock" to break down all of the organics. Bleach and/or Vinegar will help but it can still take a long time.

I think your best move is to hold off cycling and let this rock fully cure, even if it is in regular saltwater. Otherwise I fear you will be fighting all sorts of nutrient issues.
I do agree, I am headed home soon and going to re bleach the rock. I do believe that with bleach the organics should be gone in days to a week or so, especially since this isn’t what I’d call dirty dry rock (i.e. Pukani). Using just heated saltwater alone I’d expect the process to take several months. And consider that my rock had two rounds of bleach, one round for a good week, AND then soaked in heated, circulating saltwater for over three months. I wouldn’t have thought there’d be anything organic left on the rocks and sand, but I am more than willing to go back and redo the curing process. I really don’t want to start the tank with high ammonia and decaying organics.

PS: do I see you active in the Reef-Pi thread too?

Thank you again for your help!

-FF
 

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When I've done rock cures I always get increasing nitrates and phosphates. There might be ammonia there, but I haven't tested for it. I find it odd that you're not seeing N and P, but you have high ammonia.
 

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PS: do I see you active in the Reef-Pi thread too?
I'm not a Reef-Pi guy but I've been asked to help with "other" electrical questions there on occasion.

AND then soaked in heated, circulating saltwater for over three months.
I may have missed this earlier... 3 months in heated circulation salt water should have left this rock clean and fully cycled. I need to give this more thought....
 
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When I've done rock cures I always get increasing nitrates and phosphates. There might be ammonia there, but I haven't tested for it. I find it odd that you're not seeing N and P, but you have high ammonia.
Hi! Thanks for the reply! To be honest, there is no mystery to the no nitrates I am seeing and it’s because the rock was truly bleached dead, and I have not yet added any nitrifying bacteria. The organic matter that I suspected is still on the rocks is decaying and releasing ammonia, but there are no bacteria to process the ammonia into nitrite and finally into nitrate. So that part isn’t a question in my mind. My question was, and still is, why am I not seeing phosphate as well, and the best answer so far is that it may take longer to break down into a form that the test kits can detect. Because it doesn’t seem reasonable to me that I have so much organic material that it is decomposing into so much ammonia yet no phosphate. It must be that the phosphate takes longer to build up or show up in testing.

Thank you for your reply!

-FF
 
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I'm not a Reef-Pi guy but I've been asked to help with "other" electrical questions there on occasion.

I may have missed this earlier... 3 months in heated circulation salt water should have left this rock clean and fully cycled. I need to give this more thought....

OK, I thought I saw you there. Reef-Pi is a big part of what I want to try with this tank, in the hopes I can use it on my larger tanks too. Yes, my rock was bleached, bathed in acid, bleached again for a good week, and then allowed to sit in salt water for easily three months. I really would have thought that would have done it, but I guess not, so I hope to start the bleaching again as soon as tonight or tomorrow.

Thank you for your reply!

-FF
 
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Just an update, I took the tank down and placed the sand and rock in a 20 gallon Rubbermaid Brute with 4 gallons of 12.5% Sodium Hypochlorite liquid swimming pool chlorine shock, which was enough to fully submerge everything by a couple inches. I have to think this will burn off any organic material in the rock and sand. Can anyone take a guess how long I should let it go for? I'm thinking a week, give or take. Much longer and I doubt the bleach will still be active, and if further bleaching is necessary I'll probably have to use fresh bleach at that point anyway. I do have the cover on the Brute. Does a week sound reasonable?

Thanks guys, really appreciate the help!

-Fish Fan
 

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Just an update, I took the tank down and placed the sand and rock in a 20 gallon Rubbermaid Brute with 4 gallons of 12.5% Sodium Hypochlorite liquid swimming pool chlorine shock, which was enough to fully submerge everything by a couple inches. I have to think this will burn off any organic material in the rock and sand. Can anyone take a guess how long I should let it go for? I'm thinking a week, give or take. Much longer and I doubt the bleach will still be active, and if further bleaching is necessary I'll probably have to use fresh bleach at that point anyway. I do have the cover on the Brute. Does a week sound reasonable?

Thanks guys, really appreciate the help!

-Fish Fan
A week sounds reasonable. After rinsing, I would probably test it out in that container with salt water prior to trying to set the display back up again.
 
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A week sounds reasonable. After rinsing, I would probably test it out in that container with salt water prior to trying to set the display back up again.
Yes, probably should have done that the first time ;-) Fortunately, it’s a small tank, so this was no big deal, but I’ll make sure to test the rock and sand before trying to proceed this time.

I did rewatch the BRS video on bleach curing as well as a couple other people’s takes on it, and a week in the bleach seems reasonable. Depending on the organics present, the bleach won’t be active much longer than a week, and less if there’s a lot of organics to oxidize.

Thanks again!

-Fish Fan
 

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