Is this GHA?

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rueric

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To get started treating this issue, you’ll first need to pull as much as you can by hand and with the use of a small brush. Toothbrushes are a great option. Using a fish net will help catch anything that floats away. Secondly, you need to temporarily reduce your light cycle to not more than 8 hours each day and not more than 50% intensity. Third, feed your fish every other day not more than they can consume in 3 minutes. That will be difficult as most reefers love to see their fish eat and be happy. *Do not do a water change for at least 2 to 3 weeks! Be sure to change or clean your filter sock(s) and skimmer collection cup daily. Dosing a beneficial bacteria such as Microbacter7 according to package direction will significantly add to your success. Please note that algae of any species is a culmination of many factors, some of which could be over feeding, poor or non existent skimmer performance, lighting, nutrients, etc. Lastly, add a diverse clean up crew. Trochus snails, 1 urchin per 40 gallons of display, and Mexican turbo or zebra snails have been my army of attack in the past. After week 3, retest nitrate and phosphate levels, (they should be higher than your current readings) change 20% of your tank water, and slowly increase your light cycle.
I can do all of that, but there is still the case of the dying snails.. Wondering if theres something else that's toxic in my tank causing snail death
 

anthonygf

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I do something similar where I have a similar size hose and use it to pull the GHA out so it gets sucked out.
Unfortunately, the GHA has a strong enough foothold where I can't just suction it out without ripping it off the rocks.
Tank size is 32g

I was considering using a filter sock so I can prevent the need to do a water change.. I'll try and figure something out on this weeks WC
I wasn't going to mention this because some object to it, raise your magnesium to 1500 or a little over. It seems to slow down algae growth, it can also make it easier to remove from rocks, it worked for me. I have my mag at 1500 or a little higher at times and I have very little algae growth. My Nitrates 25-50ppm, phosphate ULR around 0.15 for several years now. I feed my 7 fish once a day with flakes only for at least 5 years, stopped feeding frozen because they won't eat it and are fat and happy and at least 7 years old. I run my lights at 95%.
 

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STOP BUYING CLEANUP CREWS AND FISH FOR THIS PEOPLE! This is clearly a case where more work and attention needs to be done by the owner.
As mentioned in a previous post. Get yourself a siphon tube and some tubing!
Also, get yourself some tooth brushes and a turkey baster!
Also, make yourself a power filter! Sicce 2.0 works great!
Most importantly, stop relying on CUC's to do the work we should all be doing ourselves! And once you have eliminated your problem stay on top of it.
STOP KILLING CUC"S!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

anthonygf

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Even with a 100's of clean-up crew members you will still have algae grow. Before it gets out of hand I use a small polishing filter that can be placed in the tank, scrub and blow off rocks, clean the glass and lightly clean gravel. The polishing filter will clear the water of all the debris suspended in water column, I do this once every 3 weeks or sooner depends on how quickly it grows. Once the water clears, usually overnight remove the filter to clean and wait for the next cleaning. I enjoy even this part of the hobby, cleaning the rocks of detritus will save your bio bacteria from suffocation due to lack of oxygen.
 
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rueric

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Even with a 100's of clean-up crew members you will still have algae grow. Before it gets out of hand I use a small polishing filter that can be placed in the tank, scrub and blow off rocks, clean the glass and lightly clean gravel. The polishing filter will clear the water of all the debris suspended in water column, I do this once every 3 weeks or sooner depends on how quickly it grows. Once the water clears, usually overnight remove the filter to clean and wait for the next cleaning. I enjoy even this part of the hobby, cleaning the rocks of detritus will save your bio bacteria from suffocation due to lack of oxygen.
Can you link the polishing filter you use?
 

paintman

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Make something like this.

You will need a strong pump for suction. I used a sicce 2.0 pump
Every day go in and scrub your rocks. While at the same time running power filter and all your power heads. You want as much flow in your tank as possible to keep debris suspended so that it can get to the power filter and socks/rollermat.
I did my tank every day just before lights out and ran it all night long. In the morning slow the tank back down and remove power filter for cleaning and get ready to do it again. And again. And again.
You should also bubble scrub at the same time. Youtube it.
This will not be easy! You are going to have to commit to doing this every day or at a minimum wvery other day for at least a couple of weeks. I acctually did my tank twice a day in the beginning.

AGAIN YOU ARE NOT GOING TO WIN THIS BATTLE BY DUMPING BOTTLES OF CRAP IN YOUR TANK, OR CUC'S!!!!!!!!!
 

paintman

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Even with a 100's of clean-up crew members you will still have algae grow. Before it gets out of hand I use a small polishing filter that can be placed in the tank, scrub and blow off rocks, clean the glass and lightly clean gravel. The polishing filter will clear the water of all the debris suspended in water column, I do this once every 3 weeks or sooner depends on how quickly it grows. Once the water clears, usually overnight remove the filter to clean and wait for the next cleaning. I enjoy even this part of the hobby, cleaning the rocks of detritus will save your bio bacteria from suffocation due to lack of oxygen.
Finally! someone who gets it. Congradulations on not being lazy or buying into the "just dump a bottle of crap or a CUC into your tank" narrative.
 

anthonygf

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Finally! someone who gets it. Congradulations on not being lazy or buying into the "just dump a bottle of crap or a CUC into your tank" narrative.
Thank you paintman. Can't rely on critters to do the cleaning for you. I tell you after a good cleaning the corals perk up more than if I didn't.
 

anthonygf

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Can you link the polishing filter you use?
Sorry, been out all day enjoying this 116 degree weather. Will post pictures when I find them. I have two types, this one is my favorite. It prevents detritus from falling off or out of filter. They have a smaller one but this one you can see inside the canister. You do not need to leave this in the tank, take it out when you are finished.

MarineLand Magnum Polishing Internal Canister Filter, For aquariums Up To 97 Gallons, 10.5 IN (ML90770-00)​

 

anthonygf

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Make something like this.

You will need a strong pump for suction. I used a sicce 2.0 pump
Every day go in and scrub your rocks. While at the same time running power filter and all your power heads. You want as much flow in your tank as possible to keep debris suspended so that it can get to the power filter and socks/rollermat.
I did my tank every day just before lights out and ran it all night long. In the morning slow the tank back down and remove power filter for cleaning and get ready to do it again. And again. And again.
You should also bubble scrub at the same time. Youtube it.
This will not be easy! You are going to have to commit to doing this every day or at a minimum wvery other day for at least a couple of weeks. I acctually did my tank twice a day in the beginning.

AGAIN YOU ARE NOT GOING TO WIN THIS BATTLE BY DUMPING BOTTLES OF CRAP IN YOUR TANK, OR CUC'S!!!!!!!!!

I have a similar filter like this but the detritus falls off the filter pad and back into the tank. The MarineLand doesn't have this problem.
 

anthonygf

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Wouldn't shutting off the light just prolong the algae growth?
For the sea hare, I did a 2 hour drip acclimation while maintaining constant temp.. I don't think it's an acclimation issue
I have never turned the lights off for several days when I had this problem, just remove the algae as it grows. Eventually your parameters will stabilize and the corals, coraline etc., will hopefully out compete the algae for nutrients. This seems to be what is going on in my tank. I still have algae growing a little, I just put in my polishing filter just before lights out and brush the algae off and the filter will take care of the rest. When it gets as bad as you have or had, you need to pull out the majority of it and then maintain it yourself after. Sometimes you may have to use the polishing filter during the day and brush off the algae before it gets to big.
 

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snails and sea hare need very good acclimation with salinity also equal to that of the tank
Alsge needs light and inorganics. Take away the light and youve taken away part of their food source.
In a somewhat similar note, I am having an algae problem in the QT where I am quarantining my corals (zoas, palys, GSP, and a rhodactis mushroom). Corals are the only live items in the tank. The algae is 95% on the sand bed. A quick wipe once a week keeps the glass clean. On the sand bed I have identified cyano, green hair algae, and bubble algae, probably diatoms as well. I am using a python to clean the sand bed 2-3 times a week and turning the sand over with a fork another 2 times a week. But the algae seems to just fall right back on the sand bed and get right back to growing. I have a single AI prime HD 16 in this tank. Can I turn off the white, red, and green lights and just run UV, violet, blue, and royal blue lighting? Will that help? What can I do to allow the corals to stay healthy but keep the algae from growing? The corals really don't seem to like me churning everything up so often.
 

anthonygf

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In a somewhat similar note, I am having an algae problem in the QT where I am quarantining my corals (zoas, palys, GSP, and a rhodactis mushroom). Corals are the only live items in the tank. The algae is 95% on the sand bed. A quick wipe once a week keeps the glass clean. On the sand bed I have identified cyano, green hair algae, and bubble algae, probably diatoms as well. I am using a python to clean the sand bed 2-3 times a week and turning the sand over with a fork another 2 times a week. But the algae seems to just fall right back on the sand bed and get right back to growing. I have a single AI prime HD 16 in this tank. Can I turn off the white, red, and green lights and just run UV, violet, blue, and royal blue lighting? Will that help? What can I do to allow the corals to stay healthy but keep the algae from growing? The corals really don't seem to like me churning everything up so often.
I don't think I can help you but I notice better coral growth with the white on than off. I would rather clean the algae up than sacrifice my corals food source which includes all wave length of light.
 

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Regarding your
In a somewhat similar note, I am having an algae problem in the QT where I am quarantining my corals (zoas, palys, GSP, and a rhodactis mushroom). Corals are the only live items in the tank. The algae is 95% on the sand bed. A quick wipe once a week keeps the glass clean. On the sand bed I have identified cyano, green hair algae, and bubble algae, probably diatoms as well. I am using a python to clean the sand bed 2-3 times a week and turning the sand over with a fork another 2 times a week. But the algae seems to just fall right back on the sand bed and get right back to growing. I have a single AI prime HD 16 in this tank. Can I turn off the white, red, and green lights and just run UV, violet, blue, and royal blue lighting? Will that help? What can I do to allow the corals to stay healthy but keep the algae from growing? The corals really don't seem to like me churning everything up so often.
question and intent with adjustment of lights . . . YES
Assure your phosphate is not elevated. IF using an RODI unit, assure the Di resin is not leeching or expired.
 

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I don't think I can help you but I notice better coral growth with the white on than off. I would rather clean the algae up than sacrifice my corals food source which includes all wave length of light.
I agree, but I'm starting to see algae growing on the frags and if looks like it is bothering them. So I'm looking for other answers. All of my CUC members have previously been moved to the display tank and I don't want to move them backwards to the quarantine tank.
 
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rueric

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Hares need more like 4 hour drip.
How long are you doing snails?

I agree, but I'm starting to see algae growing on the frags and if looks like it is bothering them. So I'm looking for other answers. All of my CUC members have previously been moved to the display tank and I don't want to move them backwards to the quarantine tank.
Why not get more CUCs for the QT?
 

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Regarding your

question and intent with adjustment of lights . . . YES
Assure your phosphate is not elevated. IF using an RODI unit, assure the Di resin is not leeching or expired.
I just ordered a phosphate test, I'll be able to test that by the end of the week.

The DI resin is fairly new and my TDS meter is showing the RODI water at 0 or 1 ppm at all times.

I'll adjust the lighting when I get home Thursday. Thabk you.
 

anthonygf

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I agree, but I'm starting to see algae growing on the frags and if looks like it is bothering them. So I'm looking for other answers. All of my CUC members have previously been moved to the display tank and I don't want to move them backwards to the quarantine tank.
I don't think a CUC will take care of the frags. What I would do is first thing in the morning if there is algae on the plugs I would pull the plugs out clean the algae off and just put a little hydrogen peroxide on the plug but not the coral. I did this in the past but forgot how it went. If you do this then they will get a full day of light.
 
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