Is This Logical.

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Curious how you maintain salinity with your tanks and refugiums exposed to the weather? Especially with 16" of rain. I assume they are sheltered somehow?

No shelter except oak tree canopy. Salinity, temperature & pH fluctuate with in limits that are acceptable.

Not only did 16” of rain dilute system down to 1.016 but rising flood water flowed into sump for a short time.
 
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If you didnt have so many sponges think of how much bigger the mess would have been. They can suck up a lot of water.
 
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A picture says a thousand words.
 
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I added a 29G high display tank as a macro lagoon. No fish at this time. Yesterday, with daytime temperature in the mid 90’s with water temperature rising to 82 degrees. Today is ho5 & humid with reduced evaporative cooling. So I went with a German evaporative cooler from HESSAIR. I am using it as a cooling tower to cool reef tank water. I liked the first one so much, I bought two more.

@Scrubber_steve I am considering using it as an algae turf scrubber.
 

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So I went with a German evaporative cooler from HESSAIR. I am using it as a cooling tower to cool reef tank water. I liked the first one so much, I bought two more.
How does that cool the water. How do you have it hooked up?
 
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This is awesome... I've always wanted to try something like this but being in North Louisiana I'm not sure how feasible it would be. Following along.

Where you live is not as important as how committed you are. In the south, heat removal is #1 issue. When I lived in DeRidder, La I had access to ground water at 20’ and 67 degrees cold. The sandy loam with pine forest was the recharge zone for the Chicot Aquifier. Using an air compressor, I lifted water from 100’ deep to 15’ above ground then flooded suction of sprinkler pump. The electrical cost of water was $0.07 per 1000G. In that situation, I had an extended propagation system using 67 degree water to remove heat. Here in Austin, the lower Trinity Aquifier at 1000’ is 80 degrees and cost $0.28 per 1000G.
In my situation, I use evaporative cooling during the hottest heat gain of the day from noon till 7PM. During those hours evaporative cooling is most efficient when humidity < 60%.
 
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How does that cool the water. How do you have it hooked up?

During the phase change of water to vapor, 1000 btu/lb of heat are absorbed. The process effects both air & water temperatures.

The difference between swamp cooler (evaporative cooler) and a cooling tower is the goal of the equipment.

Swamp coolers pass hot dry air across a water curtain to produce cool moist air. Water evaporates during this process and is added as required.

Cooling towers pass hot dry air across a water curtain to produce cool water and produces
hot air which requires water makeup due to same evaporative cooling.

So on HESSAIR evaporative cooler, I manifold pump into cooler inlet which is controlled by level control float valve. Modify drain to allow a small controlled flow back to sump. Water-in replaces water lost to evaporation plus cold water draining back to tank.

Thermodynamics 101:

For every gall9n of water evaporated 8,340 btu of cooing takes place. My small oak tree canopy evaporates 100G per day with 834,000 btu of cooling every day.
 
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As a reefer of 50 years, I upgrade with regularity. 55G display has been replaced by 150G tank.

1200G cryptic refugium has been moved to a shady spot under cedar trees.

The 30 mil liner for 1200G koi pond was removed from dismantled 8000G plywood tank.
 

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I bet its full of water over there today
 
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It’s been lightly raining all day. Great Peraneas is scared of the thunder, so Hunter is enjoying dry hardwood floor in house.
 

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I am a bit confused on how the water got on the floor. Was it due to the underground storage tank or are they unrelated?
 
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I am a bit confused on how the water got on the floor. Was it due to the underground storage tank or are they unrelated?

Unrelated. I have three independent outside systems:

1. Newest system is < 60 days old. 150G display tank under oak tree coupled to 150G Rubbermade tank countersunk into the ground. This same 150G Rubbermaid sump is coupled to 55G tank in my house.

2. Oldest system is 8 years mature. It consist of five 150G Rubbermaid tubs. Three original tubs are buried in ground. It was this system that I coupled 1200G tank that floated out of ground during first of May.

3. The greenhouse at 20’ by 40’ consisted of 8000G tank with eight 150G Rubbermaid tubs. This system was shut down 3 years ago due to high electrical cost to cool water during the summertime. I dismantled the big tank as it was impractical.

PS. Drain line from tank in house did not have a vent.
 
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Unrelated. I have three independent outside systems:

1. Newest system is < 60 days old. 150G display tank under oak tree coupled to 150G Rubbermade tank countersunk onto the ground. This same 150G Rubbermaid sump is coupled to 55G tank in my house.

2. Oldest system is 8 years mature. It consist of five 150G Rubbermaid tubs. Three original tubs are buried in ground. It was this system that U coupled 1200G tank that floated out of ground during first of May.

3. The greenhouse at 20’ by 40’ consisted of 8000G tank with eight 150G Rubbermaid tubs. This system was shut down 3 years ago due to high electrical cost to cool water during the summertime. I dismantled the big tank as it was impractical.

Thanks for the explanation. What failure resulted in water in the house? How are you going to prevent it in the future?

Sorry for the basic questions, the original post is very densely packed with info.
 
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Because snails can block drain lines, I am considering putting in a hi-level shut off valve on supply line from 150G sump.
 

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