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ChuzUThisDay
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Day 3 after the peroxide treatment. Still nothing growing:
Is this Lyngbya?
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Fantastico 
I’ll link you to two pretty big peroxide threads now. Great documentation
Even if you don’t select the method for the upscale work to the whole tank (yep, nothing else will beat what you just modeled) I want readers to see recurring details:
-How you tested rasping with and without peroxide
-nothing dosed to water, keeping your non targets out of this party. Party is for invaders only.
- all actions have been invader focused so far. The algaecide step is preventing growback per prediction.
**Dremel is rasping 4.0 ha! Never thought of that, whatever destroys an invader with direct substrate-grinding action is what’s invited to the party. Though you may have to steaknife the other areas around corals so that you don’t grind away your complete coralline layers lol that initial dremel test is hilarious. Your invader is not a deep rooter and some good pointed scraping with peroxide rinse will clear that tank. Razor scrape the back wall clean, full water and sandbed change for the final win after you are happy with stepped up testing.
-this is an incremental approach where you haven’t wasted any of your time/ideal. We aren’t downing the oxygen levels in your tank using antibiotics or subjecting your corals to the algaecide. Hard work outside of the tank means dedication and control of outcome.
-in time, some growback by rule will occur on the cleaned substrates. They’re debrided of coral and coralline, bio rejecting life layers. The areas of the tank not rasped by rule will commute some invader back to the old party site given time and ability to do so.
-#of repeats in the manual cleaning is proportionate to hesitation time. This tank is in fair challenge, so you’ll enjoy the full cleaning run but in time will need to take out a rock or two and redo a missed area. Not many, but a few follow up runs will be needed
-the cause of your invader is specific import. Not anything else. If you dumped raw planted tank fertilizer in my reef, cyano and green dot algae would take over (vectors in from anywhere all the time on earth) but not ever lyngbya, invasive caulerpa, dinos, diatoms, valonia, bryopsis et al
All those and more must be brought in, and I haven’t. Well actually I did initially but then they all got stabbed out long ago and I don’t do algae work now for last seven years.
I’ll link you to two pretty big peroxide threads now. Great documentationEven if you don’t select the method for the upscale work to the whole tank (yep, nothing else will beat what you just modeled) I want readers to see recurring details:
-How you tested rasping with and without peroxide
-nothing dosed to water, keeping your non targets out of this party. Party is for invaders only.
- all actions have been invader focused so far. The algaecide step is preventing growback per prediction.
**Dremel is rasping 4.0 ha! Never thought of that, whatever destroys an invader with direct substrate-grinding action is what’s invited to the party. Though you may have to steaknife the other areas around corals so that you don’t grind away your complete coralline layers lol that initial dremel test is hilarious. Your invader is not a deep rooter and some good pointed scraping with peroxide rinse will clear that tank. Razor scrape the back wall clean, full water and sandbed change for the final win after you are happy with stepped up testing.
-this is an incremental approach where you haven’t wasted any of your time/ideal. We aren’t downing the oxygen levels in your tank using antibiotics or subjecting your corals to the algaecide. Hard work outside of the tank means dedication and control of outcome.
-in time, some growback by rule will occur on the cleaned substrates. They’re debrided of coral and coralline, bio rejecting life layers. The areas of the tank not rasped by rule will commute some invader back to the old party site given time and ability to do so.
-#of repeats in the manual cleaning is proportionate to hesitation time. This tank is in fair challenge, so you’ll enjoy the full cleaning run but in time will need to take out a rock or two and redo a missed area. Not many, but a few follow up runs will be needed
-the cause of your invader is specific import. Not anything else. If you dumped raw planted tank fertilizer in my reef, cyano and green dot algae would take over (vectors in from anywhere all the time on earth) but not ever lyngbya, invasive caulerpa, dinos, diatoms, valonia, bryopsis et al
All those and more must be brought in, and I haven’t. Well actually I did initially but then they all got stabbed out long ago and I don’t do algae work now for last seven years.
Your work is linked here on last page as a great example for Dirtrider to try modeling in his caulerpa challenge. We w beat that too.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/r...lenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/page-17
And here last page, a big peroxide thread
https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/268706-peroxide-saves-my-tank-with-pics-to-prove-it/?page=65
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/r...lenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/page-17
And here last page, a big peroxide thread
https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/268706-peroxide-saves-my-tank-with-pics-to-prove-it/?page=65
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ChuzUThisDay
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Looks like I have more scraping and Dremel usage ahead of me. In the mean time, how do I start dosing the 1:10 ratio of peroxide to the tank? I have a 125 with a 20 gallon sump (Likely 120 gallons of actual water between them). Do I squirt 12ml of peroxide into the tank/sump after the lights go out each night? Do I slowly add 12ml throughout the day (4ml 3 times a day)? Do i do this daily, 3 times a week, once a week? I've tried to look through the linked threads, but I'm not understanding proper dosage.
hey would you zip a full tank shot real q lemme see if anything stands out
slight concerns would be light coralline bleaching possible/comes back
xenia can get mad
anems too, though Ive no losses on record
no fish are of concern
lysmata cleaners are #1 death certain
hermodice fireworms too, they die.
pics w show most of that
there is always an amplification trick beyond dosing something to the water. The baseline amplifier, including alternate cures such as fluconazole treatment which is all the rage currently, is the manually clear the target first. If someone is about to install an algae scrubber to clean up display tank algae, great. Install it on a forced clean system.
a non work element gets us invaded
a work element is to be involved in the restoration, simplest algae trick ever. nearly everything people use for clearing mass should be just used as the preventative after elbow grease cleaning does the major export. people's algae issues would drop phenomenally from just that arrangement even if they don't choose peroxide. its perfect for lyngbya though.
someone at reefcentral once used diabetic syringes to slowly inject peroxide at the calc'd safe dose, one mil per ten gallons of water (daily isn't a big deal, others did 2x day for power runs, its widely accepting actually) right into targets submerged underwater. so vs casting to the topwater for equal contact, they're underwater slow spot injecting which is a quicker burn before bleedoff into the tank. an amplifier.
Do as much back wall scrape siphoning, manual rock brushing with or without external peroxide (just the ideal) and when your tank is clean, that 1:10 can be added to the tank to prevent growback and there's a darn good chance it will. lyngbya has not ever scared us, its massively susceptive to peroxide and is likely to die even with the full tank dose I try to talk people out of. that tank is too big to part out, agreed.
slight concerns would be light coralline bleaching possible/comes back
xenia can get mad
anems too, though Ive no losses on record
no fish are of concern
lysmata cleaners are #1 death certain
hermodice fireworms too, they die.
pics w show most of that
there is always an amplification trick beyond dosing something to the water. The baseline amplifier, including alternate cures such as fluconazole treatment which is all the rage currently, is the manually clear the target first. If someone is about to install an algae scrubber to clean up display tank algae, great. Install it on a forced clean system.
a non work element gets us invaded
a work element is to be involved in the restoration, simplest algae trick ever. nearly everything people use for clearing mass should be just used as the preventative after elbow grease cleaning does the major export. people's algae issues would drop phenomenally from just that arrangement even if they don't choose peroxide. its perfect for lyngbya though.
someone at reefcentral once used diabetic syringes to slowly inject peroxide at the calc'd safe dose, one mil per ten gallons of water (daily isn't a big deal, others did 2x day for power runs, its widely accepting actually) right into targets submerged underwater. so vs casting to the topwater for equal contact, they're underwater slow spot injecting which is a quicker burn before bleedoff into the tank. an amplifier.
Do as much back wall scrape siphoning, manual rock brushing with or without external peroxide (just the ideal) and when your tank is clean, that 1:10 can be added to the tank to prevent growback and there's a darn good chance it will. lyngbya has not ever scared us, its massively susceptive to peroxide and is likely to die even with the full tank dose I try to talk people out of. that tank is too big to part out, agreed.
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ChuzUThisDay
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This one from Nov 30. I had the whites on at 100% for the pic, but I've been keeping them off completely since
.
I truly like that setup how sharp! I show no sensitive corals there, perhaps xenia possibly in the middle not sure but they rarely die, get mad a couple days. any pre removal you could do sure would help and Id add one mil per ten gallons sys volume of typical medical 3% to the tank in the mornings just once a day lets see if that nominal dose is enough. I see some fine fish for sure, I believe we've covered the gamut of them at the reefcentral peroxide thread with no harm on far larger doses.
The truth is, for a big $ system like that nobody should rush and everyone should verify. the only known location I can think of for verifying fish safety in full tank doses is the reefcentral peroxide thread, the nano reef one would never have fish like that in tow, to test ha
if you have a rc id, login and scope these pics see if there wasn't some similar tanks to yours. I recall one w sps, that many big fish, and clams, and we still dosed the whole tank for some invasive caulerpa I do believe. buried too deep to recall exactly:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2082359&page=11
from what I recall not a single fish ever kept in reefing ever died during our dose runs.
The truth is, for a big $ system like that nobody should rush and everyone should verify. the only known location I can think of for verifying fish safety in full tank doses is the reefcentral peroxide thread, the nano reef one would never have fish like that in tow, to test ha
if you have a rc id, login and scope these pics see if there wasn't some similar tanks to yours. I recall one w sps, that many big fish, and clams, and we still dosed the whole tank for some invasive caulerpa I do believe. buried too deep to recall exactly:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2082359&page=11
from what I recall not a single fish ever kept in reefing ever died during our dose runs.
Oldsalt01
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with API kits other than it's a high-range Phosphate test and for accuracy you need a low-range kit. I recommend Salifert or Red Sea. It made a huge difference in my test results, and my algae levels once I started getting accurate readings.
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ChuzUThisDay
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I honestly don't have a ton of coralline in this tank
There is some xenia and some small patches of clove polyps I believe
No nems
I do have 10 peppermints and don't want to lose them.
There are a few bristle worms in the rock work, but what about coco worms? There's a large one that I wouldn't want to lose.
I have scraped the wall many times, but it constantly grows back. I will continue to scrape, but I may try a peroxide soaked cloth/paper towel afterwards on my next large water change. If wiping the scraped wall down with peroxide will help, it will be worth a test to see... same goes for spraying down my powerheads outside of the tank.
Thanks for the awesome feedback and advice!!!
nice detailing. peppermints I give 85% chance no problem based on old trending. the fireworms are 10% chance of surviving.
each of those pressures leads more into lifting out those giant rock stacks and working on the counter
yes to the papertowel that's exactly how I use it in my tank, only I use 35% because its like rocket fuel and so dangerous I can't believe they sell it otc. I use heavy rubber gloves to handle it.
I feel like im in the chemical wild west when purchasing it without a license. anywhere 3% hesitated, 35% over did something lol. we get most our work off 3% we can see, only the crazies want the 35 heh
I would never recommend keeping 35% in a home where there is children, not even in the garage inside a locked box.
each of those pressures leads more into lifting out those giant rock stacks and working on the counter
yes to the papertowel that's exactly how I use it in my tank, only I use 35% because its like rocket fuel and so dangerous I can't believe they sell it otc. I use heavy rubber gloves to handle it.
I feel like im in the chemical wild west when purchasing it without a license. anywhere 3% hesitated, 35% over did something lol. we get most our work off 3% we can see, only the crazies want the 35 heh
I would never recommend keeping 35% in a home where there is children, not even in the garage inside a locked box.
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ChuzUThisDay
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I'm liking the idea of trying out the Salifert phosphate kit along with the API kit i have. Once I run through the API, maybe I can upgrade to the Salifert on the others.
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ChuzUThisDay
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Where do you buy the 35%? I don't recall ever seeing it. Wonder if a home healthcare/pharmacy type store would carry it?nice detailing. peppermints I give 85% chance no problem based on old trending. the fireworms are 10% chance of surviving.
each of those pressures leads more into lifting out those giant rock stacks and working on the counter
yes to the papertowel that's exactly how I use it in my tank, only I use 35% because its rocket fuel and so dangerous I can't believe they sell it otc. I use heavy rubber gloves to handle it.
it should be made illegal OTC at least for children to buy it, its horribly dangerous in fact lol. so I feel like im in the chemical wild west when purchasing it without a license. anywhere 3% hesitated, 35% over did something lol. we get most our work off 3% we can see, only the crazies want the 35 heh
I get mine from health food store. it has legit uses I believe in scientifically beyond just buzz sawing anything you put it on in a reef. Diluted, so our corneas don't blanche upon accident it is a tickly bath additive though that's non scientific eval heh (heck no i havent thats just on the directions) and for sure its a legit fruit wash and hard surface prep/ 3% is bath water comparatively, but clearly it works for our gardening purposes.
35% is a beast. first time you get it on skin don't worry it w stop in two hours and the color w come back.
my first contact, while throbbing, I typed up a question to Randy somewhere about imminent hand doom I think he calmed me lol
I only use it to cut the scummiest glass growths or for anchored invaders like brush algae. its too mean for water dosing. they keep it refrigerated at the health food store, twenty bucks a bottle
one single accidental drop spill in an eye will blanche the cornea white like an egg irreversibly, per nano reef poster ERDOC who is just that, I would personally choose a drop of bleach over 35 if given such excruciating choice.
apply universal lab safety protocol with 35% / safety disc
it is a tickly bath additive though that's non scientific eval heh (heck no i havent thats just on the directions) and for sure its a legit fruit wash and hard surface prep/ 3% is bath water comparatively, but clearly it works for our gardening purposes.35% is a beast. first time you get it on skin don't worry it w stop in two hours and the color w come back.
my first contact, while throbbing, I typed up a question to Randy somewhere about imminent hand doom I think he calmed me lol
I only use it to cut the scummiest glass growths or for anchored invaders like brush algae. its too mean for water dosing. they keep it refrigerated at the health food store, twenty bucks a bottle
one single accidental drop spill in an eye will blanche the cornea white like an egg irreversibly, per nano reef poster ERDOC who is just that, I would personally choose a drop of bleach over 35 if given such excruciating choice.
apply universal lab safety protocol with 35% / safety disc
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ChuzUThisDay
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So, 3% it is lol
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ChuzUThisDay
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I was going to try dosing 1:10 3% peroxide tonight, but something kept saying wait. I've looked into the peppermint shrimp more and just don't feel comfortable chancing it considering it is a Lysmata class also.
I have some empty aquariums that I may use to hold some rock from the tank while I scrape and hit with peroxide. Yes, it will be a pain! I'd rather do this selectively and a few at a time, trying not to chance my livestock.
I've been wanting to re-scape a little and add a few rocks as well so that I can try some SPS out once this battle is won. I have some choice rock to add, but I will be soaking it in a tub/bucket with a pretty high concentration of peroxide/saltwater first. I want to ensure I'm not facing this problem again in the future.
I keep reminding myself that nothing good happens fast in aquariums. I'll take it slow and systematically remove my scape, clean it up outside the tank, ensure I clean the inside of the tank, and win this fight based upon the advice I've received from @brandon429 and @saltyfilmfolks
I have some empty aquariums that I may use to hold some rock from the tank while I scrape and hit with peroxide. Yes, it will be a pain! I'd rather do this selectively and a few at a time, trying not to chance my livestock.
I've been wanting to re-scape a little and add a few rocks as well so that I can try some SPS out once this battle is won. I have some choice rock to add, but I will be soaking it in a tub/bucket with a pretty high concentration of peroxide/saltwater first. I want to ensure I'm not facing this problem again in the future.
I keep reminding myself that nothing good happens fast in aquariums. I'll take it slow and systematically remove my scape, clean it up outside the tank, ensure I clean the inside of the tank, and win this fight based upon the advice I've received from @brandon429 and @saltyfilmfolks
I wish you the best. Sometimes it really is best to just reset.
I'm glad your intuition is talking to you. I'd follow it.
If you need help and how to just ask. I've torn one of my tanks down a few times.
I'm glad your intuition is talking to you. I'd follow it.
If you need help and how to just ask. I've torn one of my tanks down a few times.
I like it because any amplified step you take now, carefully, commutes less growback, the incremental phase has an ending.
This isn't a particularly enduring invader we w see I bet. You are taking measured steps for the benefit of the tank, no hurry. Any step taken now has a modeled outcome, safe bet for us. No more time wasted.
To me, it's no reset if you are able to keep using the rocks to reef afterwards. You are just gardening, w a bit of cheat. The tradeoff since I can't guarantee safety in any other way is that slow and tedious manual external work. Elbow grease, but ironically the safest method for your overall system.
The #1 use of a peroxide thread compilation is to see that bacteria were not affected, even in the gross overdose thread portions at reefcentral. No enduring loss of bac ever reported. Not one
If the most basic expectation of rocks is still met after a thorough dosing, or dremeling (the ability to keep free ammonia at zero) then we aren't taking true out of bounds measures in guiding unwanted plants out, by force.
This isn't a particularly enduring invader we w see I bet. You are taking measured steps for the benefit of the tank, no hurry. Any step taken now has a modeled outcome, safe bet for us. No more time wasted.
To me, it's no reset if you are able to keep using the rocks to reef afterwards. You are just gardening, w a bit of cheat. The tradeoff since I can't guarantee safety in any other way is that slow and tedious manual external work. Elbow grease, but ironically the safest method for your overall system.
The #1 use of a peroxide thread compilation is to see that bacteria were not affected, even in the gross overdose thread portions at reefcentral. No enduring loss of bac ever reported. Not one
If the most basic expectation of rocks is still met after a thorough dosing, or dremeling (the ability to keep free ammonia at zero) then we aren't taking true out of bounds measures in guiding unwanted plants out, by force.
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ChuzUThisDay
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Thanks salty! I'm not really wanting to "reset" per se, but I do want to scrape this stuff off and treat with peroxide outside the tank. My goal is to not lose my coral, not lose livestock, nor start over. I'm thinking that I may be able to take out 1-2 pieces of rock at a time. Depending on how time consuming it is (the small test rock went quickly with the Dremel) I can see this taking several evenings and weekends. With the approach of Christmas, New Year, and my daughter getting married in the midst, I don't see me having the time I want to sit down and do it all in one swoop.
As for intuition, the older I get the more it hurts when I don't listen
Thanks again for the help and offer. I've been thinking about the canister filter and floss you mentioned a day or two ago. Do you think a hose could be attached to the input to help vacuum detritus from under rocks or when I scrape the Lyngbya off the wall? I normally run a hose from the tank to a sock in the sump, but this could possibly do the same with more suction. Thoughts?
Mine is a 30 gal, I hooked up the can with floss a little gfo and carbon.
I pulled all the rock out , scraped it in one bucket rinsed in another and put it back in.
I just used a pot scrubber on the rock.
Took hours.
The only note is , some of the acros and sps did not like it afterwards, and I had to put them in my other tank. The peroxide effected the ph in a weird way.
I pulled all the rock out , scraped it in one bucket rinsed in another and put it back in.
I just used a pot scrubber on the rock.
Took hours.
The only note is , some of the acros and sps did not like it afterwards, and I had to put them in my other tank. The peroxide effected the ph in a weird way.
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ChuzUThisDay
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Maybe the slow, 1-2 rocks at a time, multi-day approach will help with ph and other parameters not shifting too much. Good food for thought that I may not have realized until too late.
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