Ivy's RSR 525XL Build --first Saltwater tank

[Flippers4pups]

Your welcome. You could always change it later if you decide to add one, plus you may find that it may be space limited under the stand once the sumps there.

 

[glb]

This is exciting! Can’t wait to see the build. Take your time and do a lot of research. You’ll be so glad you did once the tank is up and running. Good luck!

 

[reacclimating 2 the hobby]

I'd rather run the included plumbing. I guess I just don't fully comprehend the benefit of a manifold and if I did I may think it was worth the extra money and time.

Thanks for the input!

Space is very limited in these stands. I'm not sure where'd i'd put a manifold. I'm currently planning to build another small stand next to mine to house a carbon reactor, ATO reservoir, and future calcium reactor. The plumbing that came with is more than sufficient for startup and an extended period of time.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Space is very limited in these stands. I'm not sure where'd i'd put a manifold. I'm currently planning to build another small stand next to mine to house a carbon reactor, ATO reservoir, and future calcium reactor. The plumbing that came with is more than sufficient for startup and an extended period of time.

That sounds like a plan!

 

[missgoofyx24]

Space is very limited in these stands. I'm not sure where'd i'd put a manifold. I'm currently planning to build another small stand next to mine to house a carbon reactor, ATO reservoir, and future calcium reactor. The plumbing that came with is more than sufficient for startup and an extended period of time.

Thanks! I think I'll stick to the stock option. What are you planning to do with the right side of the stand? I see a lot of people using it to house electronics, but I think I may make an in wall panel to house that at my eye level so I'm not stuffing all that in one spot. I think I'll use that area for the ATO reservoir to hide it from my daughter lol then again, all of this is still up in the air until I decide what I want to run in the sump.

 

[RIreefGuy]

Fun project. Following along =)

 

[missgoofyx24]

This is exciting! Can’t wait to see the build. Take your time and do a lot of research. You’ll be so glad you did once the tank is up and running. Good luck!

Thanks for sharing in my excitement [emoji1] looking forward to sharing the experience with you all. I'm naturally a very inquisitive person, so that alone is going to make this build twice as long as it should be lol

 

[reacclimating 2 the hobby]

Thanks! I think I'll stick to the stock option. What are you planning to do with the right side of the stand? I see a lot of people using it to house electronics, but I think I may make an in wall panel to house that at my eye level so I'm not stuffing all that in one spot. I think I'll use that area for the ATO reservoir to hide it from my daughter lol then again, all of this is still up in the air until I decide what I want to run in the sump.

Currently I have an electronics panel visible(apex, dj power strip, etc) with a ton of cords and Metal Halide ballasts behind it. I'm still debating if it will stay that way or if that is what I'll move. Need more room either way unfortunately.

 

[glb]

FWIW, I’d get an apex. It will save you having to buy separate controllers for lights, heaters, etc along the way. For a tank that size it will make your life so much easier.

 

[Bronc]

FWIW, I’d get an apex. It will save you having to buy separate controllers for lights, heaters, etc along the way. For a tank that size it will make your life so much easier.

I would second that. By the time you buy separate controllers and timers, etc you’ll almost have paid for an Apex. Plus, you can use your Android - just use the web interface instead of an app.

 

[missgoofyx24]

Happy Easter to those that celebrate it!

Yesterday was a productive build day. My brother and father arrived on Friday night, so they tackled the tank build right after breakfast. My brother hung out in the basement building the stand. I looked forward to building it, but I quickly realized I spread myself too thin since I was supposed to be making our lunch and dinner while entertaining two kids under two years old with my sister in law. My brother also loves to tinker, so I left him downstairs to get it done.

Note on the tank's home... in the end, the tank ended up in none of the spots we originally discussed. Ultimately, the spot it ended up in its the most convenient one, with my "reef closet" about 15 feet to the right of it. The closest shares a wall with the bathroom that I plan to plumb the RO/DI to, so the plumbing from my water set up will now be a straight shot to the tank. That wall behind the tank is also on the same wall as the breaker box upstairs, so upgrading the outlet on that wall from 15 to 20 with gfi is going to be a breeze. So while it wasn't my favorite spot, it most definitely will become my favorite once I realize how much ease it's going to contribute to the build.

I plan to set up the RO/DI next weekend, so that'll be fun. I do have a question concerning the sump. I can't remember where I saw this (forum, Facebook group, YouTube video?) but somewhere I saw someone add white contact paper to the back and sides of the sump before placing it into the stand. Adding the contact paper allowed them to look into the sump and be able to see everything since there was a white contrast instead of just the glass with a black stand behind it. Does anyone have thoughts on this? I know the darkness helps with algae in the sump, but I will be running a refugium light anyway. Are there any reasons I should decide against the contact paper? #reefsquad

Now I have to decide on my rock and get the order placed so I can start arguing with myself about how I want it to look lol. I'll definitely be looking at a bunch of threads for some inspiration and tips.

I've completed my wishlist, so I'll be posting that some time tonight. I'm at a total of $9,077 if I get everything full price... that was a quite shock, but I'm doing this build slowly. I have a plan that I'll fill you in on when I pay the list since I'm new to this and you may have much appreciated input and changing or adjusting certain aspects.

Thanks!

 

[missgoofyx24]

As promised!! Here it is

I was expecting a high number and, after talking to my spouse this afternoon, I am okay with the price tag I’ve reached. These are all full prices, not taking into account purchasing things during sales or finding items on the open box section of BRS, or even using my reefer points to save money on purchases, which is how I purchased the RO/DI for less. I listed BRS as the supplier for everything since I used them for the price column, but if I find it elsewhere cheaper, then I’ll likely snag the deal.

Anyway, here’s my budget friendly plan I’ve come up with.

First off, I’m going to spend May and June (maybe even some of July) only buying the required components to start cycling the tank. I’m still trying to figure out what that is exactly … I’m assuming it’s the following: Return pump, dry rock, live sand, salt, heater, Algae for the refugium, refugium light (not sure I need it at this point or if I can add it later in the process…)

While the tank is cycling, I’ll buy components necessary to run the Triton Method once my tank has cycled and the ALK stabilizes: dosing pump, reservoirs, and CORE7 additives.

Once the tank is cycled and I’m ready to begin dosing Triton/ send out my first ICP Test (I’m assuming 6-8 weeks), I’ll have had enough time to save up for the lighting scheme I wanted. I may just start off with the T5 set-up and add the LED modules individually as I save up the money to purchase them. I’d rather not go with this option though, considering how annoying it may be to take the lighting bracket done to add each LED on there as I purchase them…

*I MAY add a couple fish at this point, but I’m not convinced I want to add them until I get the ICP results back.

I imagine it’ll be the early fall at this point and I may be able to use some birthday gift cards towards the purchase of the APEX controller. I am tempted to wait until Black Friday because I’m not sure what deals pop up around that time on aquarium equipment. Any input of previous sales and my expectations would be nice.

Of note, this is all flexible depending on current sales being offered by suppliers. It may take me until the end of June to get everything I need to begin cycling the tank simply because it takes a lot of pressure for me to actually purchase something full price lol If I think any money can be saved, then I become the most patient person you’ll ever meet.

Once I reach the purchase points above, then I’ll begin bargain shopping for the rest of the “add-on” equipment that add convenience and redundancy to the tank: a QT set-up, additional APEX modules, ATO/AWC system components, auto-feeders, spare heater, spare power head, spare return pump, and some battery back up solutions.

 

[steelwrap]

Sounds/looks like You have a plan, i usually just wing it. Sounds good thought take Your time and do it up right.

 

[WV Reefer]

Happy Easter to those that celebrate it!

Yesterday was a productive build day. My brother and father arrived on Friday night, so they tackled the tank build right after breakfast. My brother hung out in the basement building the stand. I looked forward to building it, but I quickly realized I spread myself too thin since I was supposed to be making our lunch and dinner while entertaining two kids under two years old with my sister in law. My brother also loves to tinker, so I left him downstairs to get it done.

Note on the tank's home... in the end, the tank ended up in none of the spots we originally discussed. Ultimately, the spot it ended up in its the most convenient one, with my "reef closet" about 15 feet to the right of it. The closest shares a wall with the bathroom that I plan to plumb the RO/DI to, so the plumbing from my water set up will now be a straight shot to the tank. That wall behind the tank is also on the same wall as the breaker box upstairs, so upgrading the outlet on that wall from 15 to 20 with gfi is going to be a breeze. So while it wasn't my favorite spot, it most definitely will become my favorite once I realize how much ease it's going to contribute to the build.

I plan to set up the RO/DI next weekend, so that'll be fun. I do have a question concerning the sump. I can't remember where I saw this (forum, Facebook group, YouTube video?) but somewhere I saw someone add white contact paper to the back and sides of the sump before placing it into the stand. Adding the contact paper allowed them to look into the sump and be able to see everything since there was a white contrast instead of just the glass with a black stand behind it. Does anyone have thoughts on this? I know the darkness helps with algae in the sump, but I will be running a refugium light anyway. Are there any reasons I should decide against the contact paper? #reefsquad

Now I have to decide on my rock and get the order placed so I can start arguing with myself about how I want it to look lol. I'll definitely be looking at a bunch of threads for some inspiration and tips.

I've completed my wishlist, so I'll be posting that some time tonight. I'm at a total of $9,077 if I get everything full price... that was a quite shock, but I'm doing this build slowly. I have a plan that I'll fill you in on when I pay the list since I'm new to this and you may have much appreciated input and changing or adjusting certain aspects.

Thanks!

Nice set up so far.

Following along.

 

[Kevin Duprey]

As promised!! Here it is

I was expecting a high number and, after talking to my spouse this afternoon, I am okay with the price tag I’ve reached. These are all full prices, not taking into account purchasing things during sales or finding items on the open box section of BRS, or even using my reefer points to save money on purchases, which is how I purchased the RO/DI for less. I listed BRS as the supplier for everything since I used them for the price column, but if I find it elsewhere cheaper, then I’ll likely snag the deal.

Anyway, here’s my budget friendly plan I’ve come up with.

First off, I’m going to spend May and June (maybe even some of July) only buying the required components to start cycling the tank. I’m still trying to figure out what that is exactly … I’m assuming it’s the following: Return pump, dry rock, live sand, salt, heater, Algae for the refugium, refugium light (not sure I need it at this point or if I can add it later in the process…)

While the tank is cycling, I’ll buy components necessary to run the Triton Method once my tank has cycled and the ALK stabilizes: dosing pump, reservoirs, and CORE7 additives.

Once the tank is cycled and I’m ready to begin dosing Triton/ send out my first ICP Test (I’m assuming 6-8 weeks), I’ll have had enough time to save up for the lighting scheme I wanted. I may just start off with the T5 set-up and add the LED modules individually as I save up the money to purchase them. I’d rather not go with this option though, considering how annoying it may be to take the lighting bracket done to add each LED on there as I purchase them…

*I MAY add a couple fish at this point, but I’m not convinced I want to add them until I get the ICP results back.

I imagine it’ll be the early fall at this point and I may be able to use some birthday gift cards towards the purchase of the APEX controller. I am tempted to wait until Black Friday because I’m not sure what deals pop up around that time on aquarium equipment. Any input of previous sales and my expectations would be nice.

Of note, this is all flexible depending on current sales being offered by suppliers. It may take me until the end of June to get everything I need to begin cycling the tank simply because it takes a lot of pressure for me to actually purchase something full price lol If I think any money can be saved, then I become the most patient person you’ll ever meet.

Once I reach the purchase points above, then I’ll begin bargain shopping for the rest of the “add-on” equipment that add convenience and redundancy to the tank: a QT set-up, additional APEX modules, ATO/AWC system components, auto-feeders, spare heater, spare power head, spare return pump, and some battery back up solutions.

Hello, following this build. I noticed you checked out my RSR525XL build thread, and I thought I'd offer some input on some of the points above. Though I'm far from an expert, I've been running aquaria of some sort for >30 years and reef tanks for the last 3+. Take this advice for what it is, my opinion.

First. I don't see any budget for testing equipment. IMHO, this is the thing people often skimp on, and it's a mistake. You'll also need this pretty much as soon as the tank gets wet. It may seem like an inconsequential cost, but good equipment that makes the testing easier and more consistent is a decent up-front cost that usually more than pays for itself with the avoidance of an over-reaction to a wrong test result. First item on that list should be at a minimum a good manual refractometer for salinity testing. I personally love my Milwaukee digital refractometer, but it's a luxury and not necessary on a budget. Second item would be an ammonia test kit. None of the kits are really all that accurate in my experience. If you have any inkling of adding fish shortly after the initial cycle, I might suggest a Seneye reef monitor. It will alert you in plenty of time to a potential problem. You could probably find a used one, and the cost of a few slides will give you great peace-of-mind during the early months when water chemistry is most volatile. I'm also a big fan of the Hanna alkalinity and low range phosphorous checkers. Very repeatable results. You wont need these until you start adding something that uses alkalinity (ie. coral) and something that adds phosphorous to the system (ie. fish).

Second item. If you're starting with dry sand and dry rock, don't bother with macro algae or a refugium light. The macro algae will have little to no free nitrates and phosphates to consume until you build up a biomass. It will just die-off, causing other issues. I was able to seed my RSR525XL with sand, rock and macro algae from my old system, and added fish and coral fairly quickly. Even with that, I experienced a fair amount of macro die-off until the nutrients built up in my system.

Last item for now. You mention wanting to do the Triton method and also auto water changes (AWC). In my opinion, there are a couple issues with this. First, these two are in opposition to each other. You can run a modified Triton method with water changes, but that somewhat defeats the purpose. The main reason for doing Triton is to get to that reefing Nirvana of a system in equilibrium, not needing water changes to add or remove items, other than as a correction if things get seriously out-of-whack. The main reason to do AWC is to continually refresh your system with small amounts of clean new salt water, adding key elements and removing some level of nutrients and VOC's every day. Second problem is that I wouldn't advocate either approach for a new system. Triton works best once a tank has reached some level of sustainable biodiversity. You can start dosing the Triton elements once your system starts consuming alkalinity, but you will still need to do water changes for probably at least the first year, as the system goes through the inevitable boom-bust cycles of micro-fauna explosion and die-off until things reach some reasonable equilibrium. You can certainly accomplish this with an AWC system, but if the ultimate goal is a Triton system with minimal water changes, this seems superfluous. Also, spending the time weekly or bi-weekly or monthly as needed to do water changes by hand allows you to get to know your system and how it responds to these changes. It also gives you the opportunity to vacuum out excess detritus and unwanted bio-growth (cyano, etc.) which AWC will never address.

Sorry for the extremely long post. Feel free to ignore any or all of it, ask questions, or make counterpoints. I'm happy to help or sit on the sidelines watching the development of this tank in silence. There are many ways to run a successful reef tank. I'm certainly not saying mine is the best. I will say that if I've learned anything in my short reefing career it's that there really are no shortcuts, whatever approach you choose. There is definitely truth to the saying that nothing good happens fast in a reef tank. It doesn't need to be ponderously slow, but the first year will definitely try your patience. Best of luck.

 

[missgoofyx24]

Hello, following this build. I noticed you checked out my RSR525XL build thread, and I thought I'd offer some input on some of the points above. Though I'm far from an expert, I've been running aquaria of some sort for >30 years and reef tanks for the last 3+. Take this advice for what it is, my opinion.

First. I don't see any budget for testing equipment. IMHO, this is the thing people often skimp on, and it's a mistake. You'll also need this pretty much as soon as the tank gets wet. It may seem like an inconsequential cost, but good equipment that makes the testing easier and more consistent is a decent up-front cost that usually more than pays for itself with the avoidance of an over-reaction to a wrong test result. First item on that list should be at a minimum a good manual refractometer for salinity testing. I personally love my Milwaukee digital refractometer, but it's a luxury and not necessary on a budget. Second item would be an ammonia test kit. None of the kits are really all that accurate in my experience. If you have any inkling of adding fish shortly after the initial cycle, I might suggest a Seneye reef monitor. It will alert you in plenty of time to a potential problem. You could probably find a used one, and the cost of a few slides will give you great peace-of-mind during the early months when water chemistry is most volatile. I'm also a big fan of the Hanna alkalinity and low range phosphorous checkers. Very repeatable results. You wont need these until you start adding something that uses alkalinity (ie. coral) and something that adds phosphorous to the system (ie. fish).

Second item. If you're starting with dry sand and dry rock, don't bother with macro algae or a refugium light. The macro algae will have little to no free nitrates and phosphates to consume until you build up a biomass. It will just die-off, causing other issues. I was able to seed my RSR525XL with sand, rock and macro algae from my old system, and added fish and coral fairly quickly. Even with that, I experienced a fair amount of macro die-off until the nutrients built up in my system.

Last item for now. You mention wanting to do the Triton method and also auto water changes (AWC). In my opinion, there are a couple issues with this. First, these two are in opposition to each other. You can run a modified Triton method with water changes, but that somewhat defeats the purpose. The main reason for doing Triton is to get to that reefing Nirvana of a system in equilibrium, not needing water changes to add or remove items, other than as a correction if things get seriously out-of-whack. The main reason to do AWC is to continually refresh your system with small amounts of clean new salt water, adding key elements and removing some level of nutrients and VOC's every day. Second problem is that I wouldn't advocate either approach for a new system. Triton works best once a tank has reached some level of sustainable biodiversity. You can start dosing the Triton elements once your system starts consuming alkalinity, but you will still need to do water changes for probably at least the first year, as the system goes through the inevitable boom-bust cycles of micro-fauna explosion and die-off until things reach some reasonable equilibrium. You can certainly accomplish this with an AWC system, but if the ultimate goal is a Triton system with minimal water changes, this seems superfluous. Also, spending the time weekly or bi-weekly or monthly as needed to do water changes by hand allows you to get to know your system and how it responds to these changes. It also gives you the opportunity to vacuum out excess detritus and unwanted bio-growth (cyano, etc.) which AWC will never address.

Sorry for the extremely long post. Feel free to ignore any or all of it, ask questions, or make counterpoints. I'm happy to help or sit on the sidelines watching the development of this tank in silence. There are many ways to run a successful reef tank. I'm certainly not saying mine is the best. I will say that if I've learned anything in my short reefing career it's that there really are no shortcuts, whatever approach you choose. There is definitely truth to the saying that nothing good happens fast in a reef tank. It doesn't need to be ponderously slow, but the first year will definitely try your patience. Best of luck.

Please do not apologize for the post or refrain from including any or all comments! Your comment is essentially the only reason I created this build thread. I'm completely new to saltwater, so I need input from reefers like you to point me in the right direction, even if they may be different directions... at least it gives me guidance towards a version of success instead of repeating problems someone else experienced that they are providing a lesson from.

The reason I didn't include the testing equipment is because I haven't made it to that row in the spreadsheet yet. I should have made note of that in my post, but I plan to research the kits and tools available throughout this week dip that I can order them with this upcoming paycheck, prior to starting the plan I listed in my post. All of the tools you mentioned are of great interest to me! I had research all but to Seneye, so I will look into that, as I like the idea of it being in place prior to the addition of any fish.

Thank you so much for the macro algae comments. I will move that stuff to the end of the timeline to ensure I have and established system to encourage the growth and health of that area. If anything it just frees up some money toward other things I haven't quoted, like the tools you mentioned for testing.

I had initially thought of using the AWC because I noticed the first year with Triton usually consists of small water changes to stabilize the tank as a solution in the test results. It was only intended to be used for the water changes that the ICP results would dictate. Though, after reflecting on your comments, I do believe I should adjust this to manual as I do agree that it'll help me become more in tune with the tank overall. I wasn't going to set up the AWC until I felt everything else had been properly establish, like the QT set up I failed to mention in my post also.

Your last point was the most helpful, by far! I have been trying to find info about starting a tank from scratch with the Triton method and have found so much info about converting instead. Maybe your point is exactly why that's the case. What approach would you recommend I use to establish and stabilize the tank prior to starting Triton? My ultimate goal is to establish a tank that provides my corals and fish with the water necessary to thrive. I went with Triton because I enjoy technical results from the ICP testing and appreciate the idea of not removing water from the tank if it's working well for its inhabitants. If delaying its start would assist in succeeding then I'm all for it.

Again, thanks for your input! It will always be appreciated!

 

[Kevin Duprey]

As promised!! Here it is

I was expecting a high number and, after talking to my spouse this afternoon, I am okay with the price tag I’ve reached. These are all full prices, not taking into account purchasing things during sales or finding items on the open box section of BRS, or even using my reefer points to save money on purchases, which is how I purchased the RO/DI for less. I listed BRS as the supplier for everything since I used them for the price column, but if I find it elsewhere cheaper, then I’ll likely snag the deal.

Anyway, here’s my budget friendly plan I’ve come up with.

First off, I’m going to spend May and June (maybe even some of July) only buying the required components to start cycling the tank. I’m still trying to figure out what that is exactly … I’m assuming it’s the following: Return pump, dry rock, live sand, salt, heater, Algae for the refugium, refugium light (not sure I need it at this point or if I can add it later in the process…)

While the tank is cycling, I’ll buy components necessary to run the Triton Method once my tank has cycled and the ALK stabilizes: dosing pump, reservoirs, and CORE7 additives.

Once the tank is cycled and I’m ready to begin dosing Triton/ send out my first ICP Test (I’m assuming 6-8 weeks), I’ll have had enough time to save up for the lighting scheme I wanted. I may just start off with the T5 set-up and add the LED modules individually as I save up the money to purchase them. I’d rather not go with this option though, considering how annoying it may be to take the lighting bracket done to add each LED on there as I purchase them…

*I MAY add a couple fish at this point, but I’m not convinced I want to add them until I get the ICP results back.

I imagine it’ll be the early fall at this point and I may be able to use some birthday gift cards towards the purchase of the APEX controller. I am tempted to wait until Black Friday because I’m not sure what deals pop up around that time on aquarium equipment. Any input of previous sales and my expectations would be nice.

Of note, this is all flexible depending on current sales being offered by suppliers. It may take me until the end of June to get everything I need to begin cycling the tank simply because it takes a lot of pressure for me to actually purchase something full price lol If I think any money can be saved, then I become the most patient person you’ll ever meet.

Once I reach the purchase points above, then I’ll begin bargain shopping for the rest of the “add-on” equipment that add convenience and redundancy to the tank: a QT set-up, additional APEX modules, ATO/AWC system components, auto-feeders, spare heater, spare power head, spare return pump, and some battery back up solutions.

Couple other quick points. If you are going the dry-rock route, look into Marco rocks. I purchased from them, and was very impressed with the quality of the rock. It did not leach phosphates, came in a variety of sizes and was easy to assemble into some nice structures. The sooner you have this, the sooner you can start playing with potential aquascapes, either on a table or the floor.

Second, you might want to think twice about the 61" aquatic life fixture. The RSR525XL is 59" long, so the visual aesthetic of a light fixture longer than the tank might not be all that great with the nice clean lines of a rimless tank. I have the 48" fixture over my tank, and while there is some slight light drop-off on the extreme ends, it's not terrible, and unless you plan on wall-to-wall SPS, won't seriously impact a nice looking reef. The light drop-off will give you areas for lower-light loving corals.

 

[Kevin Duprey]

Please do not apologize for the post or refrain from including any or all comments! Your comment is essentially the only reason I created this build thread. I'm completely new to saltwater, so I need input from reefers like you to point me in the right direction, even if they may be different directions... at least it gives me guidance towards a version of success instead of repeating problems someone else experienced that they are providing a lesson from.

The reason I didn't include the testing equipment is because I haven't made it to that row in the spreadsheet yet. I should have made note of that in my post, but I plan to research the kits and tools available throughout this week dip that I can order them with this upcoming paycheck, prior to starting the plan I listed in my post. All of the tools you mentioned are of great interest to me! I had research all but to Seneye, so I will look into that, as I like the idea of it being in place prior to the addition of any fish.

Thank you so much for the macro algae comments. I will move that stuff to the end of the timeline to ensure I have and established system to encourage the growth and health of that area. If anything it just frees up some money toward other things I haven't quoted, like the tools you mentioned for testing.

I had initially thought of using the AWC because I noticed the first year with Triton usually consists of small water changes to stabilize the tank as a solution in the test results. It was only intended to be used for the water changes that the ICP results would dictate. Though, after reflecting on your comments, I do believe I should adjust this to manual as I do agree that it'll help me become more in tune with the tank overall. I wasn't going to set up the AWC until I felt everything else had been properly establish, like the QT set up I failed to mention in my post also.

Your last point was the most helpful, by far! I have been trying to find info about starting a tank from scratch with the Triton method and have found so much info about converting instead. Maybe your point is exactly why that's the case. What approach would you recommend I use to establish and stabilize the tank prior to starting Triton? My ultimate goal is to establish a tank that provides my corals and fish with the water necessary to thrive. I went with Triton because I enjoy technical results from the ICP testing and appreciate the idea of not removing water from the tank if it's working well for its inhabitants. If delaying its start would assist in succeeding then I'm all for it.

Again, thanks for your input! It will always be appreciated!

Sorry, I realize I wasn't clear. I think the Triton approach can be used with a new system. I just wanted to warn you that the full method (dosing, macro refugium, skimmer and NO water changes) will not work right out of the gate. Water changes are absolutely necessary in a new tank. ICP testing in my experience advocates water changes only to remove the buildup of potentially harmful elements. Those might not be present in a new system, and so the ICP recommendations might never call for water changes, but they will still be necessary.

This would be my recommended approach. Start the tank and cycle it. You can use nitrifying bacteria to kick-start the cycle, and I would also advocate this approach. I really like Fritz Turbo Start (do a search here and you will find a study showing how effective this product is - I used it, and it really worked for me). You can go fishless or not, but if you do go the Seneye route, and see that ammonia is in check, a single small, hardy fish in that large a system will not likely cause a crash, and will kick-start the bio-mass creation. Have fresh salt water on stand-by just in case you need to do a quick change to remove built-up ammonia. Do not be tempted to add a second fish though for quite some time. Do weekly water changes (5-10%) with a salt mix that's close in concentration to your target parameters (I like Fritz, but I don't think this is a big influencer of overall results). As your system starts consuming alkalinity beyond what the water changes can keep up with (test regularly and at the same time of day), you can start dosing small amounts of the Triton Core products. Watch for the growth of algae on your rocks. Once this happens, start acquiring a clean-up crew, and add a small amount of macro-algae to the refugium. Run the refugium light on a reverse cycle to the main tank. Once things seem stable, shift to water changes every-other-week, then monthly. Do ICP testing after the first month, then at whatever frequency makes you comfortable. My advice would be every 3 months, unless something seems seriously amiss. Add fish at a rate of no more than 1 per month. Add hardy corals like softies and maybe some LPS after a few months. Don't bother with SPS until at least month 8 or 9. Some are successful early, but that's the exception, not the rule. Try earlier if you want, but be prepared for some failure. Definitely don't start with some designer SPS. Birds Nest or a Monti cap are good starter SPS.

Good luck and keep us updated as you progress.

 

[Salty Lemon]

Following this one. It will be fun to watch the progression.

 

[missgoofyx24]

Couple other quick points. If you are going the dry-rock route, look into Marco rocks. I purchased from them, and was very impressed with the quality of the rock. It did not leach phosphates, came in a variety of sizes and was easy to assemble into some nice structures. The sooner you have this, the sooner you can start playing with potential aquascapes, either on a table or the floor.

Second, you might want to think twice about the 61" aquatic life fixture. The RSR525XL is 59" long, so the visual aesthetic of a light fixture longer than the tank might not be all that great with the nice clean lines of a rimless tank. I have the 48" fixture over my tank, and while there is some slight light drop-off on the extreme ends, it's not terrible, and unless you plan on wall-to-wall SPS, won't seriously impact a nice looking reef. The light drop-off will give you areas for lower-light loving corals.

I'll probably take your advice about the Macro rocks. I just heard back from John at Reef Cleaners and it looks like the rock I originally wanted isn't going to be available for a few months. With the Macro rocks, did you cure those for a set amount of time or just add them to the tank?

I don't know why I thought that fixture was the right length. Probably another reason why I should probably stop staying up so late doing my research lol. No sense in making a wishlist while your brain is giving up on you and asking for sleep Question though, with the 48" fixture, do you think I should stickto the 3 Kessils or can I get away with doing two? Is it possible to shift the LEDs after they are mounted; for ex...Can I put up two for now and then if the PAR isn't working out then take the fixture down and adjust the LED mounts to fit three?

Again, thanks!