Jebao/Jecod DCS-2000 Nano DC Pump Control by Reef-Pi help recommendation for 3 phase brushless controller

Wolfw28

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Jebao/Jecod DCS-2000 Nano DC Pump Control by Reef-Pi help recommendation for 3 phase brushless controller
I found some recommendation in Reef Central I tried with no luck. In there thread they are talking about using a Jebao 15000 a much larger pump requiring higher voltage and amperage. These are the 2 I have tried.
1. LYWS High Speed Three-Phase DC 7-24V Brushless Hallless BLDC Controller ESC w/Potentiometer Product Parameters:
Working voltage: 6.5-24V
Drive current: Rated 15A (if add fan for Cold 30A)
Maximum Speed: 224000 RPM (2-pole motor), 74000 RPM (6-pole motor), 40000 RPM (12-pole motor), 35000RPM (14-pole motor).
Features:
The ESC is specially designed for the design of all kinds of industrial power tools such as air pump, water pump, oil pump and fan which use DC three-phase brushless motor

With this the pump only flowed 20 gph at max, factory controller flows 60gph on lowest setting and 120gph at highest.

2. Motor Driver Controller JYQD_V6.3E1 DC12V-36V 20A Brushless Motor Controller 3 Phase Spindle BLDC Motor Driver Controller Board
Specifications:
Drive plate type: JYQD_V6.3E1
Voltage range: 12V-36V
Peak current: 20A
Drive power: ≤ 500W (related working voltage)
Size: 63x43x17mm
Speed control function: voltage speed regulation or single chip microcomputer control PWM speed regulation

With this the pump only flowed 60 gph at max, factory controller flows 60gph on lowest setting and 120gph at highest.

Don’t know why these don’t work need some help who know more about electronic I understand 2 wire -/+ motors but 3 wire motor I’m assuming that all 3 wires get both -/+ switched witch is beyond my knowledge of how to control.
@Sral, @robsworld78 , or anyone else any ideas that will not break the bank.
 
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Sral

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Alright, just to be sure that I understand you correctly:
  • You have:
  • You want: Pump Speed control via Reef-PI, in your case: A Robo-Tank with a Pi 3
  • That's why you want to replace the Jebao Controller (manual control only) with the other two.
An Idea: I have looked for the Reef-Central Thread you mentioned (I think it is this one). In the exact Post I have linked he also mentions that the older DC Pumps actually have integrated electronics, as is also mentioned on the Jebao Webpage. At least they say on the newer model DCQ that it has external electronics. In the Reef-Central Post I have linked he says that the older controllers therefore only supply the voltage and a PWM signal to the pump.

Also sounds reasonable to your description, if you supply a 24V rectangle where the pump actually expects a constant 24V DC you will reduce the speed by at least 50%, plus the overlap with the second phase will reduce even more. Additionally you might damage the pump's circuit ^^

You should have a look if that is the case, so look at the cable connections on the pump and the controller, check the manual, if you have any.
If that doesn't help, see if you dare to measure what voltages the controller gives. Be careful though, you don't want to short/connect the wrong contacts or you might damage the controller. If that is a 24DC and a small voltage DC/AC you probably have a analog 0-5V/PWM signal. If all of them are 12VAC the controller actually gives several phases.
 
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Sral

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93b304e2-dec6-4a2f-ac60-21cf394dfb35-jpeg.2745123

That’s the Jebao controller I think, right ?
Yeah, that U, V, W says I was absolutely wrong ^^

Since you have it apart already, you could look if you can feed it an external signal for its speed control. Maybe you can give us a picture of the front ?
 
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Wolfw28

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I have worked before on this topic without any success. Following this along, hope we break some ground on wave maker
The big problem I’m having is all the electronic speed controllers I can find are higher amperage. I’m running a 24v DC pump but it only pulling just under a amp.
 

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Sorry I'm not much help here, I typically recommend using a wavemakers or pumps that have a 0-10v input for controllers like Apex. Those you could connect to the Analog ports on the controller but control will be limited as you would need to use the light modes but that would allow you to ramp them up/down during the day. Here's a link for some 0-10v equipment, there's some pumps in it as an example.

 
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Wolfw28

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Sorry I'm not much help here, I typically recommend using a wavemakers or pumps that have a 0-10v input for controllers like Apex. Those you could connect to the Analog ports on the controller but control will be limited as you would need to use the light modes but that would allow you to ramp them up/down during the day. Here's a link for some 0-10v equipment, there's some pumps in it as an example.

Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately non of the pumps listed with the 0-10v option will fit in my tank is a Red Sea 20 gal nano. I actually had to modify this pump and cut off part of the inlet to make it fit. The factory pump is a small pump 110 pump for like a small protein skimmer.
 
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Wolfw28

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@Sral here are some pic of the other side. I had already put the controller back together when I got your response.
 

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Sral

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Alright, I read up on the ReefCentral Thread and somebody mentions, that the BLDC drivers that are made for higher currents seem to not work as well as the original controllers, as they're waveform are not well matched to the motor, as mentioned here and other parts of the discussion.

The same guy I linked (read two posts down) was able to remedy that by changing the input voltage. He first checked the Input Power with the stock controller and then with the Ebay/Amazon one. He then adjusted the voltage a bit up and down and settled where it went closer to the original controller. This also improved the noise of the pump.

So you might do the same: measure the Jebao power draw at 100% and compare that with the 12-36V one. Then adjust the Power supply voltage maybe from 18-26V and see if that improves the power draw/noise/pump performance.
 
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If you want to change path and use 1-10 V - below is two examples. The first I have not test but the Coral Box 2000 - works well - I have two in my system - both controlled by 1-10V


This can be operated with 1-10 V + this

I use this as my skimmer pump and regulate it with 1-10 V (the 2000 version) + this Be sure you get this newer controller - there is an older one too. On the website the 2000 is not listed as 1-10V capable (Apex ready) but delivered with the controller below - it works

1657877269878.png

Sincerely Lasse
 
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If you want to change path and use 1-10 V - below is two examples. The first I have not test but the Coral Box 2000 - works well - I have two in my system - both controlled by 1-10V


This can be operated with 1-10 V + this

I use this as my skimmer pump and regulate it with 1-10 V (the 2000 version) + this Be sure you get this newer controller - there is an older one too. On the website the 2000 is not listed as 1-10V capable (Apex ready) but delivered with the controller below - it works

1657877269878.png

Sincerely Lasse
Is your coral box 2000 Easily accessible that you could measure the length without the screen. It’s hard to tell from the picture on the website what’s the length is is it the overall length or the length of the base. The pump I am using is 10cm total and I had to cut half of the threaded inlet off and slot the rest of it to get to fit. I need the 2000 model due to head pressure requirements due to pumping height and and available flow rate and pressure for my UV sterilizer.Thank you for your response @Lasse

3BD9B0A8-F3F6-4142-B5F3-634151B5751C.jpeg
 

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@Sral here are some pic of the other side. I had already put the controller back together when I got your response.
Another thing that's more DIY style: you could short the two Power buttons on the Jebao controller with one mosfet each and drive that from Robo-Tank to basically let Robo-Tank push those buttons for you electrically. The beauty of that is that you could still operate it manually if you want ^^

I'm pretty sure that I would be able to write a python or c program for that.
 
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Another thing that's more DIY style: you could short the two Power buttons on the Jebao controller with one mosfet each and drive that from Robo-Tank to basically let Robo-Tank push those buttons for you electrically. The beauty of that is that you could still operate it manually if you want ^^

I'm pretty sure that I would be able to write a python or c program for that.
Might take you up on that offer a was thinking the same thing about jumping the pins but didn’t know how I would control it.
at your service - my spare skimmer pump is DCA 2000

IMG_20220715_161220.jpg


IMG_20220715_161251.jpg


IMG_20220715_161314.jpg


IMG_20220715_161324.jpg


And when I pass my hallway - what did I found there?

IMG_20220715_162157 1.jpg


IMG_20220715_161616.jpg


IMG_20220715_161647.jpg


Sincerely Lasse
@Lasse that pump in the pic is the one that comes with the controller with the 0-10v input for external control? That pump is identical and probably the exact same pump that I have made by Jeabo. Want to sell your controller probably not it’s a backup.
 

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Lasse

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They have change something between the Jebao DCS pumps and Coral Box DCA pumps. I did succeed with a new controller and a 2000 L Jebao DCS but did not get it to work with a Jebao 4000 L DCS. But if it is this controller you have

IMG_20220715_171938.jpg


IMG_20220715_171952.jpg


the upper connection should be a 1-10 V connection but I have never figured out the PIN configuration and/or how to activate it.

Yes I have spare controllers but I live in Sweden:) and I have crash some. I bough some of them as spare parts from Fish Street but as I say before - it is not sure that a Jecod 2000 works with the new controller. Reach out to ReefBreeders - they did have these coral box pumps before - maybe they can have a controller for you to test. If they can´t help you - send a mail to Fish street.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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They have change something between the Jebao DCS pumps and Coral Box DCA pumps. I did succeed with a new controller and a 2000 L Jebao DCS but did not get it to work with a Jebao 4000 L DCA. But if it is this controller you have (...)
In the Link to the DCA 2000 you sent they mention the difference: the Coral Box DCA is sine-Wave driven, whereas the Jebao DCS is Square Wave driven. Might not make a huge difference, but be enough that the controller might be confused about the signals he is getting back from the Pump. Additionally the 4000 version draws 30W, which in combination with the above might be enough to trigger the over-current protection.
 
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In the Link to the DCA 2000 you sent they mention the difference: the Coral Box DCA is sine-Wave driven, whereas the Jebao DCS is Square Wave driven. Might not make a huge difference, but be enough that the controller might be confused about the signals he is getting back from the Pump. Additionally the 4000 version draws 30W, which in combination with the above might be enough to trigger the over-current protection.
Looking at the two pumps they look identical probably made but the same manufacturer Coral box just figured out how to hack to controller like I’m trying to do. The problem may be all the esc I have tried are Square wave and the pump requires a sine wave to work. Did you get a chance to look at the other program I mentioned to you. This is where that cheap a siloscope it really coming handy
 

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