LCR's Waterbox 20 Cube

[Lou City Reefing]

how is the nanomat going? What adapter did you end up using?

Hey! Sorry, just now seeing this. It's definitely effective, but I feel like it messes with the water level too much. I will likely go with a Nature Dimensions Roller Mat when if I decide to run another one!

 

[Pipers Reef]

how is the nanomat going? What adapter did you end up using?

Hey! Sorry, just now seeing this. It's definitely effective, but I feel like it messes with the water level too much. I will likely go with a Nature Dimensions Roller Mat when if I decide to run another one!

Interesting, I’m in the early stages of testing my red sea nano mat with various sizes of orlandito14’s design.

The first adapter was too high so I’ve printed a shorter one that seems ok so far. However it’s only been a couple of days and In a new system the water level takes quite a while to reach the sensor.

Seems to advance once between 24-48 hours. I’ll keep you posted on the outcome.

In regards to the ato Ive moved the sensor to the final chamber to monitor water levels.

 

[Pipers Reef]

I'm thinking about removing the Red Sea Nano Roller Mat. I feel like the inconsistency of water level is effecting the salinity. I probably just don't have it setup correctly with the 3D printed piece, but I'd rather have stable salinity lol. Although, I will be adding a Ice Cap K1-nano to help filtrate!

The K1 has some great feedback. Would be a good choice

 

[Lou City Reefing]

Unfortunately, I have grown increasingly frustrated with my tank.

I have finally gotten dosing down and my DKH is at a steady 9.0. I started dosing, not due to having too many corals, because of coraline algae consumption.

I removed the Red Sea Nano Mat because for some reason I couldn’t maintain salinity with it. I think it’s due to me not having the correct 3D printed piece and the sensor being off.

Finally glued my frags to the rocks.

I added the Sicce Shark 150 because a K1-Nano wouldn’t in the rear chambers.

I’m running filter floss that I change out every 2-3 days (I actually don’t mind doing this.)

Now the frustrating piece - my cloud has become super cloudy and I have a small outbreak of cyano (it’s red slime, which is why I think it’s cyano) even in high flow areas.

I feel like I can never figure this hobby out and it’s just not clicking for me.

My corals aren’t doing great and now cloudy water / possible cyano. It really makes me want to just take the path of least resistance and quit.

I apologize for the vent session for anyone who may read this. Just thought I’d share a very human reaction to this hobby lol.

Dkh - 9.0
PO4 - 1.5
NO3 - 5
Ca - ~415
Mg - ~1320

I plan on getting a Fauna Marine ICP test shortly (my first one EVER) to see if I can figure out what’s going on.

 

[dvgyfresh]

Pics can help us help you! Maybe phosphate is too high? Has you tried chemi pure elite? And maybe chill out on changing the floss , I haven’t changed the filter sock for a month and may not change for another 2 or so

 

[Pipers Reef]

phos seems high or is that a typo? how old is the tank? might be a delay in the ugly stage?

In regards to the red sea nano mat i can confirm that mine is working and rolling brilliantly when it comes to sensor activation and timing ect.

I used a 25mm spacer and let the first chamber cascade about an inch or so. This gives the return chamber enough water height to submerge my heater.

since the 21/9/25 i can confirm that a 25mm spacer height is working in my system. Pulls heaps of gunk just like my clarisea sk 5000 did in my old tank. Return pump Ai axis 40 at 95%

I actually seen a large decrease in phos and nitrate to almost 0 running in conjunction with a bubble magus mini q skimmer that i had to take the skimmer off line to get the nutrients back up.

salinity in my pen25 with the auto aqua lite smart g2 ato has been ok. i have noticed a 0.5 difference in ppm two or three times early in the morning. id wake up to the optical sensor submerged in water as if it over filled.

I did however have suspicions that it was the roller fleece becoming clogged and slowing down flow to the final chamber where my sensor is.

To test that theory i manually rolled the fleece until it was clean and it became clear that the water level didn't change enough near the ato sensor. I believe it was placement of my ato sensor and or fault in ato sensor itself.

Definitely keeping a close eye on it now.

 

[Lou City Reefing]

Pics can help us help you! Maybe phosphate is too high? Has you tried chemi pure elite? And maybe chill out on changing the floss , I haven’t changed the filter sock for a month and may not change for another 2 or so

I will definitely upload pictures when I get a chance to take some! I have not tried chemi pure elite yet. I’ve thought about leaving the floss in there longer! I’m not sure why I haven’t honestly.

Phosphates are definitely high but I’m not sure why. I feed once a day on an auto feeder at 1pm. It’s all setup through hydros. I feed TDO pellets.

 

[Lou City Reefing]

phos seems high or is that a typo? how old is the tank? might be a delay in the ugly stage?

In regards to the red sea nano mat i can confirm that mine is working and rolling brilliantly when it comes to sensor activation and timing ect.

I used a 25mm spacer and let the first chamber cascade about an inch or so. This gives the return chamber enough water height to submerge my heater.

since the 21/9/25 i can confirm that a 25mm spacer height is working in my system. Pulls heaps of gunk just like my clarisea sk 5000 did in my old tank. Return pump Ai axis 40 at 95%

I actually seen a large decrease in phos and nitrate to almost 0 running in conjunction with a bubble magus mini q skimmer that i had to take the skimmer off line to get the nutrients back up.

salinity in my pen25 with the auto aqua lite smart g2 ato has been ok. i have noticed a 0.5 difference in ppm two or three times early in the morning. id wake up to the optical sensor submerged in water as if it over filled.

I did however have suspicions that it was the roller fleece becoming clogged and slowing down flow to the final chamber where my sensor is.

To test that theory i manually rolled the fleece until it was clean and it became clear that the water level didn't change enough near the ato sensor. I believe it was placement of my ato sensor and or fault in ato sensor itself.

Definitely keeping a close eye on it now.

No typo on the phos. I just tested everything before posting and double checked the phos as well.

I’ll have to try and make another .stl file to test for the nano mat and put it back online.

I am glad to hear yours is working! So, you run the heater in the first chamber? I haven’t thought of that. I run it in my second chamber.

 

[Pipers Reef]

No typo on the phos. I just tested everything before posting and double checked the phos as well.

I’ll have to try and make another .stl file to test for the nano mat and put it back online.

I am glad to hear yours is working! So, you run the heater in the first chamber? I haven’t thought of that. I run it in my second chamber.

I run the heater in the last chamber with the return pump and ato sensor.

Use orlandito's stl and just cut it down in height to 25mm on tinkercad or similar program. This should solve the height issue if your 20 is anything like my 25. I actually printed a 20mm just incase and some 2.5 and 5mm add on spacers just incase. 25 worked for me though.

 

[dvgyfresh]

No typo on the phos. I just tested everything before posting and double checked the phos as well.

I’ll have to try and make another .stl file to test for the nano mat and put it back online.

I am glad to hear yours is working! So, you run the heater in the first chamber? I haven’t thought of that. I run it in my second chamber.

Try chemi pure elite , it will help reduce phosphate and take away any toxins in the water. Cyano is annoying to deal with but it’s a bacteria , try to figure out why it’s spreading. Cyano likes imbalance , which could be the phosphate , low oxygen , low flow

 

[scuba_sam]

How’s the hydra 44hd working for you? Also, does it fit okay with the added skimmer? Following the process as I’m starting up a water box 25 myself and just got the hydra 44hd

 

[Lou City Reefing]

How’s the hydra 44hd working for you? Also, does it fit okay with the added skimmer? Following the process as I’m starting up a water box 25 myself and just got the hydra 44hd

I never ended up getting the Hydra 44. I’ve stuck with the AI Prime 16hds, but looking at possibly going with the Hydra 32s because I like the look of their deep blues that the Hydra 44s don’t seem to have.

I’m using the Sicce Shark 150 and it works a charm! There didn’t seem to be any break in period.

 

[Lou City Reefing]

Weekly parameters:
Ca - 420
DkH - 9.4
Mg - Unsure because the Hanna Checker is AWFUL.
NO3 - 4.40
PO3 - 0.9

I'm having a bit of a cyanobacteria issue in section 4. I think it's due to low flow (and possibly high phosphates).

So, I have a few different thoughts to combat this:
1) by the Hygger 12w gyre-style pump and place in section 1, move my AI Nero 5 from section 1 to section 2 and move my AI Nero 3 from section 2 to section 4.
2) Leave my AI Nero 5 in section 1, put the Hygger gyre-style pump in section 2 and move my AI Nero 3 to section 3.
3) Leave both AI Neros where they are and add another AI Nero 3 in section 3 to stay in the AI ecosystem.

Obviously, I need to lower my phosphates, which I will be working on as well, but food and waste settles in section 4 and never gets removed unless done manually.

 

[dvgyfresh]

Weekly parameters:
Ca - 420
DkH - 9.4
Mg - Unsure because the Hanna Checker is AWFUL.
NO3 - 4.40
PO3 - 0.9

I'm having a bit of a cyanobacteria issue in section 4. I think it's due to low flow (and possibly high phosphates).

So, I have a few different thoughts to combat this:
1) by the Hygger 12w gyre-style pump and place in section 1, move my AI Nero 5 from section 1 to section 2 and move my AI Nero 3 from section 2 to section 4.
2) Leave my AI Nero 5 in section 1, put the Hygger gyre-style pump in section 2 and move my AI Nero 3 to section 3.
3) Leave both AI Neros where they are and add another AI Nero 3 in section 3 to stay in the AI ecosystem.

Obviously, I need to lower my phosphates, which I will be working on as well, but food and waste settles in section 4 and never gets removed unless done manually.

I love the gyre , I use it in my 20G. I have an anemone cover over it , helps reduce the flow . I’ve used it on my right side of the tank for months , just this week switched it to the back and trying it out. Your levels are really good , I would want to lower phosphate either lanthium chloride or GFO

Ignore my garden of GHA lol

 

[dvgyfresh]

I also upgraded the return into a random flow generator https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/1...TiON9Ou2Kzkd-3vmr9O96lfHRDRDFFHoaArv9EALw_wcB

 

[Lou City Reefing]

Weekly parameters:
Ca - 420
DkH - 9.4
Mg - Unsure because the Hanna Checker is AWFUL.
NO3 - 4.40
PO3 - 0.9

I'm having a bit of a cyanobacteria issue in section 4. I think it's due to low flow (and possibly high phosphates).

So, I have a few different thoughts to combat this:
1) by the Hygger 12w gyre-style pump and place in section 1, move my AI Nero 5 from section 1 to section 2 and move my AI Nero 3 from section 2 to section 4.
2) Leave my AI Nero 5 in section 1, put the Hygger gyre-style pump in section 2 and move my AI Nero 3 to section 3.
3) Leave both AI Neros where they are and add another AI Nero 3 in section 3 to stay in the AI ecosystem.

Obviously, I need to lower my phosphates, which I will be working on as well, but food and waste settles in section 4 and never gets removed unless done manually.

I love the gyre , I use it in my 20G. I have an anemone cover over it , helps reduce the flow . I’ve used it on my right side of the tank for months , just this week switched it to the back and trying it out. Your levels are really good , I would want to lower phosphate either lanthium chloride or GFO

Ignore my garden of GHA lol

I think you sold me on it! Really the cheapest options to help with flow in my opinion. This little nano is harder to get flow right than I thought it would be lol

 

[Lou City Reefing]

I also upgraded the return into a random flow generator https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/1...TiON9Ou2Kzkd-3vmr9O96lfHRDRDFFHoaArv9EALw_wcB

I have a random flow generator already. I don’t know if I necessarily love it

 

[Lou City Reefing]

Acan is doing well and growing like crazy! Same with my frogspawn and octo (not pictured here). Parameters are all within range, but still having a little issue with Cyano. Although, the Cyano is going away slowly!

 

[Lou City Reefing]

The tank had been running pretty smoothly recently! All of the corals have been growing a ton (the hammer you see is new), slowly winning against the cyanobateria, and about to add even more corals!

 

[dvgyfresh]

Looks like it’s going in the right direction! Good stuff