Leather Coral

[MagicMiller72]

I have a sick Carpet Anemone going into QT with an Antibiotic treatment...And I also have A Leather Coral(Finger) I believe that looks like he might be losing color and all of my params are norm at present. Should I, and/or could I treat the coral? And if so, should I treat them together being I might only have enough biotics for a 12 day treatment. The first pic is the Coral, 2: Carpet, 3: Bubble Tip with Maroon Clown...doing great so far; comes out big time during the early afternoon time, 4: an Orangish Anemone I believe is A Rock Anemone. It came in the rock and has gotten bigger since being in my tank.
55 gal. Oase thermo biomaster 350, Current E-Flux wave pumps and lights on Loop controller.
I have an 8in. Bristle Star, 2 Snails and Chaeto for algae control.
1 Lawnmower Blenny and 1 Domino Damsel.

 

[Aldrinlights]

Hello and welcome to the forum! I have a couple of things to mention that I've seen just from looking at your pictures. To answer your questions about treatment though just remember that corals are usually able to adapt and come back from many situations but you have a bigger issue that needs to be fixed before you go much further.

1) It appears that with as much algae as you have completely covering your rocks that your params can't possibly be "norm". it's just that your algae issue is currently taking up all of the nitrate and phosphate at a rate that makes it undetectable on your test kit

2) You anemone seems to have lost all of it zooxanthellae as it is completely white. This makes me wonder if your lighting is of the correct spectrum or even strong enough par for your corals.

That leads me to the probable answer as to why your corals are not doing well.

The way I would handle these issues myself is first to get rid of that hair algae and get the nutrients under control. You can do this many different ways but here's how I've successfully done it before

I used a ratio of 10:1 (Saltwater : 3% Hydrogen Peroxide). For example, I used a container and placed a rock with coral on it in it. Using a 100 ml measuring cup, I filled the container until the coral and algae was completely submerged with my tank's saltwater. It took 400ml saltwater. Next I measured out 40ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide to make my 10:1 ratio. I picked the coral up just above the container and poured the peroxide directly onto the algae being sure it would run off back into the saltwater. After holding it there for a few seconds, I lowered the coral back into the saltwater and started a timer for 6 minutes. Afterwards, I rinsed the rock and coral under RODI and placed into my tank. 24-36 hours later... The algae is totally gone. I have also tried an 8:1 ratio. It's been safe! As well as accidentally let coral sit in this concentration for 10 minutes with no loss. However, ere on the safe side at first. You can always dip longer or more concentrated later. I have now done this on my gold torch that is now happier and more out than ever, a purple chalice, trumpets and channel lobo. 100% success with no loss. The coral actually looks better.

Don't do the entire tank at once though. Do half of the tank and then do the other half. I also recommend you add a skimmer to the tank. You can get a hang on one but it would help for you to possibly have a hang on refugium as well if you aren't going with the sump configuration. You need to export nutrients fast.

I know this is a lot to dump on you but you can get that tank looking great. it takes time and patience and we all have learned through the years and are willing to help.

Please list how old that tank is, what all of your parameters are reading, what test kit you are using, and what your lighting schedule and manufacturer is.

 

[MagicMiller72]

Hello and welcome to the forum! I have a couple of things to mention that I've seen just from looking at your pictures. To answer your questions about treatment though just remember that corals are usually able to adapt and come back from many situations but you have a bigger issue that needs to be fixed before you go much further.

1) It appears that with as much algae as you have completely covering your rocks that your params can't possibly be "norm". it's just that your algae issue is currently taking up all of the nitrate and phosphate at a rate that makes it undetectable on your test kit

2) You anemone seems to have lost all of it zooxanthellae as it is completely white. This makes me wonder if your lighting is of the correct spectrum or even strong enough par for your corals.

That leads me to the probable answer as to why your corals are not doing well.

The way I would handle these issues myself is first to get rid of that hair algae and get the nutrients under control. You can do this many different ways but here's how I've successfully done it before

I used a ratio of 10:1 (Saltwater : 3% Hydrogen Peroxide). For example, I used a container and placed a rock with coral on it in it. Using a 100 ml measuring cup, I filled the container until the coral and algae was completely submerged with my tank's saltwater. It took 400ml saltwater. Next I measured out 40ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide to make my 10:1 ratio. I picked the coral up just above the container and poured the peroxide directly onto the algae being sure it would run off back into the saltwater. After holding it there for a few seconds, I lowered the coral back into the saltwater and started a timer for 6 minutes. Afterwards, I rinsed the rock and coral under RODI and placed into my tank. 24-36 hours later... The algae is totally gone. I have also tried an 8:1 ratio. It's been safe! As well as accidentally let coral sit in this concentration for 10 minutes with no loss. However, ere on the safe side at first. You can always dip longer or more concentrated later. I have now done this on my gold torch that is now happier and more out than ever, a purple chalice, trumpets and channel lobo. 100% success with no loss. The coral actually looks better.

Don't do the entire tank at once though. Do half of the tank and then do the other half. I also recommend you add a skimmer to the tank. You can get a hang on one but it would help for you to possibly have a hang on refugium as well if you aren't going with the sump configuration. You need to export nutrients fast.

I know this is a lot to dump on you but you can get that tank looking great. it takes time and patience and we all have learned through the years and are willing to help.

Please list how old that tank is, what all of your parameters are reading, what test kit you are using, and what your lighting schedule and manufacturer is.

Ok...I plan on making a sump for it with a skimmer, I just haven't found anything to fit underneath this cabinet so it's been hard to put one together without it being outside the cabinet or next to it in another one...lol
My salinity is at 1.025
PH is reading 8.2
Nitrite is 0
Nitrate is between 0 & 5.0 ppm
Ammonia is 0
Phosphate read 0
KH reads 179 ppm
Calcium says 480 ppm
And I am using an API test kit
I have These in my fridge for the inverts
I am using live ocean sand and reverse osmosis water from a water company and coraline marine salt mix (fully buffered)
The lights are called Current IC LED Marine Lights...using there lighting chart at the moment. I'll have to look and see what those are programmed at. I can change the color and times anytime. And the tank has been running for three months and the algae was alot worse until I cleared quite a bit and then bought the algae Blenny and the Chaeto. It has slowed down tremendously, but still have some to correct of course.

 

[MagicMiller72]

Ok...I plan on making a sump for it with a skimmer, I just haven't found anything to fit underneath this cabinet so it's been hard to put one together without it being outside the cabinet or next to it in another one...lol
My salinity is at 1.025
PH is reading 8.2
Nitrite is 0
Nitrate is between 0 & 5.0 ppm
Ammonia is 0
Phosphate read 0
KH reads 179 ppm
Calcium says 480 ppm
And I am using an API test kit
I have These in my fridge for the inverts
I am using live ocean sand and reverse osmosis water from a water company and coraline marine salt mix (fully buffered)
The lights are called Current IC LED Marine Lights...using there lighting chart at the moment. I'll have to look and see what those are programmed at. I can change the color and times anytime. And the tank has been running for three months and the algae was alot worse until I cleared quite a bit and then bought the algae Blenny and the Chaeto. It has slowed down tremendously, but still have some to correct of course.

I know I need to upgrade my test kit, but can you recommend something more accurate. I use a micrometer for the salinity and not one of those cheap plastic things...lol

 

[MagicMiller72]

Hello and welcome to the forum! I have a couple of things to mention that I've seen just from looking at your pictures. To answer your questions about treatment though just remember that corals are usually able to adapt and come back from many situations but you have a bigger issue that needs to be fixed before you go much further.

1) It appears that with as much algae as you have completely covering your rocks that your params can't possibly be "norm". it's just that your algae issue is currently taking up all of the nitrate and phosphate at a rate that makes it undetectable on your test kit

2) You anemone seems to have lost all of it zooxanthellae as it is completely white. This makes me wonder if your lighting is of the correct spectrum or even strong enough par for your corals.

That leads me to the probable answer as to why your corals are not doing well.

The way I would handle these issues myself is first to get rid of that hair algae and get the nutrients under control. You can do this many different ways but here's how I've successfully done it before

I used a ratio of 10:1 (Saltwater : 3% Hydrogen Peroxide). For example, I used a container and placed a rock with coral on it in it. Using a 100 ml measuring cup, I filled the container until the coral and algae was completely submerged with my tank's saltwater. It took 400ml saltwater. Next I measured out 40ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide to make my 10:1 ratio. I picked the coral up just above the container and poured the peroxide directly onto the algae being sure it would run off back into the saltwater. After holding it there for a few seconds, I lowered the coral back into the saltwater and started a timer for 6 minutes. Afterwards, I rinsed the rock and coral under RODI and placed into my tank. 24-36 hours later... The algae is totally gone. I have also tried an 8:1 ratio. It's been safe! As well as accidentally let coral sit in this concentration for 10 minutes with no loss. However, ere on the safe side at first. You can always dip longer or more concentrated later. I have now done this on my gold torch that is now happier and more out than ever, a purple chalice, trumpets and channel lobo. 100% success with no loss. The coral actually looks better.

Don't do the entire tank at once though. Do half of the tank and then do the other half. I also recommend you add a skimmer to the tank. You can get a hang on one but it would help for you to possibly have a hang on refugium as well if you aren't going with the sump configuration. You need to export nutrients fast.

I know this is a lot to dump on you but you can get that tank looking great. it takes time and patience and we all have learned through the years and are willing to help.

Please list how old that tank is, what all of your parameters are reading, what test kit you are using, and what your lighting schedule and manufacturer is.

I did have a 29 gallon for about 15 years with all old school equipment and my inhabitants included various fish, blennies, shrimps, crabs, urchin, brittle starfish and one pacific indonesian Anemone. The tank always had my hands in it to remove algae, yet all my inhabitants lived long full lives and the Anemone kept eating every angel fish I put in the tank...ugh...lol
The crazy thing about that tank is I only tested for the basics and salinity with water changes monthly and sometimes biweekly just because I felt it needed it.
Never had corals in that one

 

[MagicMiller72]

Any info or help is very appreciated and I can handle criticism like a champ...lol

 

[Aldrinlights]

3 months is not a lot of time for a tank to cycle and way too early for an anemone. Most people wait a year before adding them I've had issues in the past with API test kits which were set to expire later in the year giving me false high or low values. I would say the most important thing you can do is get that algae gone for the health of your corals. Find a local fish store you can rent a PAR meter from and check out its levels. If there are any red leds in those led bars I would ditch them as they will drive algae like crazy. Maybe use more of the blue spectrum and less of the white except for a short period of intensity during the noon hours. You can also use a blackout method to kill algae but corals dont like it. Either do a hang on refugium and skimmer or get a sump going on an alternate day night lighting cycle. It really helps. I had a tank that looked like this

and with using the peroxide method mentioned above by doing half the rocks at one time i got the big rock on the right to look like this.

The algae never came back as I got my nutrients under control and I never let it get out of hand ever again. It eventually loooked like this

Its now upgraded to a 75 gallon and you can see all of that in my build thread by clicking my build thread badge under my name.

 

[Uncle99]

The system does not appear to be mature enough and you need lots more rock.
It’s not exclusively about parameters, these can be achieved, but the biodiversity required for corals takes its time.

 

[MagicMiller72]

3 months is not a lot of time for a tank to cycle and way too early for an anemone. Most people wait a year before adding them I've had issues in the past with API test kits which were set to expire later in the year giving me false high or low values. I would say the most important thing you can do is get that algae gone for the health of your corals. Find a local fish store you can rent a PAR meter from and check out its levels. If there are any red leds in those led bars I would ditch them as they will drive algae like crazy. Maybe use more of the blue spectrum and less of the white except for a short period of intensity during the noon hours. You can also use a blackout method to kill algae but corals dont like it. Either do a hang on refugium and skimmer or get a sump going on an alternate day night lighting cycle. It really helps. I had a tank that looked like this

and with using the peroxide method mentioned above by doing half the rocks at one time i got the big rock on the right to look like this.

The algae never came back as I got my nutrients under control and I never let it get out of hand ever again. It eventually loooked like this

Its now upgraded to a 75 gallon and you can see all of that in my build thread by clicking my build thread badge under my name.

I know 3 months is a short time. I went with the live sand and fully buffered Coraline marine salt and my water was cycled overnight. I started with the live rock and a domino damsel for cycling purposes, but after a few days, I tested the water again and it seemed fine so I acquired more live rock,one of which had that small orange anemone, 2 Snails, and a red Bristle Star. I then added the bubble tip and maroon. Then the algae Blenny and the Chaeto. I will be cleaning out the algae later on today and I am adding a sump with skimmer in a week or so here.
I have another issue though I think.
The one snail I have is the pyramid style turbo snail I believe.
But the other one looks like a Cone Snail! I only saw it the first day I brought the live rock home and put it in the DT. I haven't seen him since! What can I do to move my rocks and things without the chance of being hit by that thing if is the bad one?

 

[MagicMiller72]

The system does not appear to be mature enough and you need lots more rock.
It’s not exclusively about parameters, these can be achieved, but the biodiversity required for corals takes its time.

More live rock is on the way. I plan on making a nice big scape buildup across the whole tank and up the back some, to blend in with the background. I have definitely been thinking More, More, More on live rock for sure. Thanks for the info

 

[MagicMiller72]

3 months is not a lot of time for a tank to cycle and way too early for an anemone. Most people wait a year before adding them I've had issues in the past with API test kits which were set to expire later in the year giving me false high or low values. I would say the most important thing you can do is get that algae gone for the health of your corals. Find a local fish store you can rent a PAR meter from and check out its levels. If there are any red leds in those led bars I would ditch them as they will drive algae like crazy. Maybe use more of the blue spectrum and less of the white except for a short period of intensity during the noon hours. You can also use a blackout method to kill algae but corals dont like it. Either do a hang on refugium and skimmer or get a sump going on an alternate day night lighting cycle. It really helps. I had a tank that looked like this

and with using the peroxide method mentioned above by doing half the rocks at one time i got the big rock on the right to look like this.

The algae never came back as I got my nutrients under control and I never let it get out of hand ever again. It eventually loooked like this

Its now upgraded to a 75 gallon and you can see all of that in my build thread by clicking my build thread badge under my name.

Here is my tank right now in the early afternoon. Going to be removing algae and doing a water change today. I might try the peroxide thing, but will that hurt any inverts?
The two pics are the turbo snail different angles. My bubble tip anemone. And the orange one I'm not for sure about, but I believe it be a rock anemone.

 

[MagicMiller72]

The system does not appear to be mature enough and you need lots more rock.
It’s not exclusively about parameters, these can be achieved, but the biodiversity required for corals takes its time.

I just found my Bristle Star up front today and here is a pic

 

[MagicMiller72]

Here is my tank right now in the early afternoon. Going to be removing algae and doing a water change today. I might try the peroxide thing, but will that hurt any inverts?
The two pics are the turbo snail different angles. My bubble tip anemone. And the orange one I'm not for sure about, but I believe it be a rock anemone.

I found my Bristle Star hiding up front by the glass today. Usually he's in the rocks somewhere. Here's a pic

 

[MagicMiller72]

3 months is not a lot of time for a tank to cycle and way too early for an anemone. Most people wait a year before adding them I've had issues in the past with API test kits which were set to expire later in the year giving me false high or low values. I would say the most important thing you can do is get that algae gone for the health of your corals. Find a local fish store you can rent a PAR meter from and check out its levels. If there are any red leds in those led bars I would ditch them as they will drive algae like crazy. Maybe use more of the blue spectrum and less of the white except for a short period of intensity during the noon hours. You can also use a blackout method to kill algae but corals dont like it. Either do a hang on refugium and skimmer or get a sump going on an alternate day night lighting cycle. It really helps. I had a tank that looked like this

and with using the peroxide method mentioned above by doing half the rocks at one time i got the big rock on the right to look like this.

The algae never came back as I got my nutrients under control and I never let it get out of hand ever again. It eventually loooked like this

Its now upgraded to a 75 gallon and you can see all of that in my build thread by clicking my build thread badge under my name.

I will post the led factory recommendations for the less to you in awhile here so you can see what I'm working with. I do have some red in there. And there is alot of white. Little green and more blue during the early and late hours of the day. It's a programmable system, so I can change it to whatever whenever.

 

[Aldrinlights]

You'll definitely want to remove any inverts from the rocks before doing the peroxide dip but it won't hurt the corals. they will just be ticked off for a while. Try to pour the peroxide directly onto the algae though before you soak it in the bucket. After rinsing the rock in RODI it will be safe to put into the tank without hurting any of the inverts. If you have bristle worms on the rocks it will definitely kill some of them but I had some that died and a lot that didnt when I did it.

You may also consider different approaches though. Every tank is different and this is just what worked for me. Here are a couple other threads on the Peroxide treatment.

Treating with hydrogen peroxide and charcoal

When treating the tank with hydrogen peroxide (1 ml / 10 gal), should I have charcoal in the filter or out?

www.reef2reef.com

Hydrogen peroxide???

I have been managing my GHA issue for a few weeks now, I got my nitrates and phosphates down using an ATS but still dealing with the GHA. Today I started pulling rocks and scrubbing them 1 a day as best I can, you know that's not an easy chore. I came across several articles and videos on...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[MagicMiller72]

Thank you so much! I will check these threads and go from there...I'm definitely not just jumping up and hurrying anything unless an emergency pops up.
But I am hurrying to get the algae under control...lol
I will post back with what I have done and pics of the aftermath so to say when I have done what I need to.
And I will look into other,more accurate test kits that out there and purchase one. Not worried about the expense

 

[MagicMiller72]

You'll definitely want to remove any inverts from the rocks before doing the peroxide dip but it won't hurt the corals. they will just be ticked off for a while. Try to pour the peroxide directly onto the algae though before you soak it in the bucket. After rinsing the rock in RODI it will be safe to put into the tank without hurting any of the inverts. If you have bristle worms on the rocks it will definitely kill some of them but I had some that died and a lot that didnt when I did it.

You may also consider different approaches though. Every tank is different and this is just what worked for me. Here are a couple other threads on the Peroxide treatment.

Treating with hydrogen peroxide and charcoal

When treating the tank with hydrogen peroxide (1 ml / 10 gal), should I have charcoal in the filter or out?

www.reef2reef.com

Hydrogen peroxide???

I have been managing my GHA issue for a few weeks now, I got my nitrates and phosphates down using an ATS but still dealing with the GHA. Today I started pulling rocks and scrubbing them 1 a day as best I can, you know that's not an easy chore. I came across several articles and videos on...

www.reef2reef.com

You'll definitely want to remove any inverts from the rocks before doing the peroxide dip but it won't hurt the corals. they will just be ticked off for a while. Try to pour the peroxide directly onto the algae though before you soak it in the bucket. After rinsing the rock in RODI it will be safe to put into the tank without hurting any of the inverts. If you have bristle worms on the rocks it will definitely kill some of them but I had some that died and a lot that didnt when I did it.

You may also consider different approaches though. Every tank is different and this is just what worked for me. Here are a couple other threads on the Peroxide treatment.

Treating with hydrogen peroxide and charcoal

When treating the tank with hydrogen peroxide (1 ml / 10 gal), should I have charcoal in the filter or out?

www.reef2reef.com

Hydrogen peroxide???

I have been managing my GHA issue for a few weeks now, I got my nitrates and phosphates down using an ATS but still dealing with the GHA. Today I started pulling rocks and scrubbing them 1 a day as best I can, you know that's not an easy chore. I came across several articles and videos on...

www.reef2reef.com

So I did a little manual extraction of algae from the sand bed and to my surprise that stuff was planting itself like grass...ugh. I haven't done the rocks as of yet, but I will once I get more of the sand grass...lol...out of the bed.
I have some pics of the tank now after algae pull and the light system and the recommended light settings for you to check out.
The only component I don't have from the one pic is the Flow Pump for the Sump System.
Let me know what you think please.

 

[MagicMiller72]

Hello and welcome to the forum! I have a couple of things to mention that I've seen just from looking at your pictures. To answer your questions about treatment though just remember that corals are usually able to adapt and come back from many situations but you have a bigger issue that needs to be fixed before you go much further.

1) It appears that with as much algae as you have completely covering your rocks that your params can't possibly be "norm". it's just that your algae issue is currently taking up all of the nitrate and phosphate at a rate that makes it undetectable on your test kit

2) You anemone seems to have lost all of it zooxanthellae as it is completely white. This makes me wonder if your lighting is of the correct spectrum or even strong enough par for your corals.

That leads me to the probable answer as to why your corals are not doing well.

The way I would handle these issues myself is first to get rid of that hair algae and get the nutrients under control. You can do this many different ways but here's how I've successfully done it before

I used a ratio of 10:1 (Saltwater : 3% Hydrogen Peroxide). For example, I used a container and placed a rock with coral on it in it. Using a 100 ml measuring cup, I filled the container until the coral and algae was completely submerged with my tank's saltwater. It took 400ml saltwater. Next I measured out 40ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide to make my 10:1 ratio. I picked the coral up just above the container and poured the peroxide directly onto the algae being sure it would run off back into the saltwater. After holding it there for a few seconds, I lowered the coral back into the saltwater and started a timer for 6 minutes. Afterwards, I rinsed the rock and coral under RODI and placed into my tank. 24-36 hours later... The algae is totally gone. I have also tried an 8:1 ratio. It's been safe! As well as accidentally let coral sit in this concentration for 10 minutes with no loss. However, ere on the safe side at first. You can always dip longer or more concentrated later. I have now done this on my gold torch that is now happier and more out than ever, a purple chalice, trumpets and channel lobo. 100% success with no loss. The coral actually looks better.

Don't do the entire tank at once though. Do half of the tank and then do the other half. I also recommend you add a skimmer to the tank. You can get a hang on one but it would help for you to possibly have a hang on refugium as well if you aren't going with the sump configuration. You need to export nutrients fast.

I know this is a lot to dump on you but you can get that tank looking great. it takes time and patience and we all have learned through the years and are willing to help.

Please list how old that tank is, what all of your parameters are reading, what test kit you are using, and what your lighting schedule and manufacturer is.

Ok, so I set up the QT with a powerhead and heater, and using the DT lights to make the same for less stress of light differences.
I have some pics here of the setup.
The 29 gallon on the left is my fresh water and the 10 gallon in the middle is the QT on my 40 gallon breeder stand with wood which is attached to the stand, towel and plastic covering. Going to out a skirt around the 40 stand so I can assemble a sump underneath those two tanks for my 55. Only because I have no room for anything under the 55 stand...lol
I did put the carpet in the QT with meds as soon as I could get it up and functional with water from the main tank and did a 30% partial in the process. I also cleaned my filter and have the prefilter sponges, coarse and fine sponge, activated carbon cube pieces I cut to fit the tray, bio balls, small pieces of frag and the chaeto until I get the sump up and running.
The Nem doesn't look good, but he hasn't started deteriating yet. I'm gonna just see what happens after these treatments and hope he gets better...if not, at least I'll be ready for new inhabitants to go into the QT B4 the DT. Also give the tank more time before I add any more.
Thanks for the help and support!

Hello and welcome to the forum! I have a couple of things to mention that I've seen just from looking at your pictures. To answer your questions about treatment though just remember that corals are usually able to adapt and come back from many situations but you have a bigger issue that needs to be fixed before you go much further.

1) It appears that with as much algae as you have completely covering your rocks that your params can't possibly be "norm". it's just that your algae issue is currently taking up all of the nitrate and phosphate at a rate that makes it undetectable on your test kit

2) You anemone seems to have lost all of it zooxanthellae as it is completely white. This makes me wonder if your lighting is of the correct spectrum or even strong enough par for your corals.

That leads me to the probable answer as to why your corals are not doing well.

The way I would handle these issues myself is first to get rid of that hair algae and get the nutrients under control. You can do this many different ways but here's how I've successfully done it before

I used a ratio of 10:1 (Saltwater : 3% Hydrogen Peroxide). For example, I used a container and placed a rock with coral on it in it. Using a 100 ml measuring cup, I filled the container until the coral and algae was completely submerged with my tank's saltwater. It took 400ml saltwater. Next I measured out 40ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide to make my 10:1 ratio. I picked the coral up just above the container and poured the peroxide directly onto the algae being sure it would run off back into the saltwater. After holding it there for a few seconds, I lowered the coral back into the saltwater and started a timer for 6 minutes. Afterwards, I rinsed the rock and coral under RODI and placed into my tank. 24-36 hours later... The algae is totally gone. I have also tried an 8:1 ratio. It's been safe! As well as accidentally let coral sit in this concentration for 10 minutes with no loss. However, ere on the safe side at first. You can always dip longer or more concentrated later. I have now done this on my gold torch that is now happier and more out than ever, a purple chalice, trumpets and channel lobo. 100% success with no loss. The coral actually looks better.

Don't do the entire tank at once though. Do half of the tank and then do the other half. I also recommend you add a skimmer to the tank. You can get a hang on one but it would help for you to possibly have a hang on refugium as well if you aren't going with the sump configuration. You need to export nutrients fast.

I know this is a lot to dump on you but you can get that tank looking great. it takes time and patience and we all have learned through the years and are willing to help.

Please list how old that tank is, what all of your parameters are reading, what test kit you are using, and what your lighting schedule and manufacturer is.

 

[MagicMiller72]

3 months is not a lot of time for a tank to cycle and way too early for an anemone. Most people wait a year before adding them I've had issues in the past with API test kits which were set to expire later in the year giving me false high or low values. I would say the most important thing you can do is get that algae gone for the health of your corals. Find a local fish store you can rent a PAR meter from and check out its levels. If there are any red leds in those led bars I would ditch them as they will drive algae like crazy. Maybe use more of the blue spectrum and less of the white except for a short period of intensity during the noon hours. You can also use a blackout method to kill algae but corals dont like it. Either do a hang on refugium and skimmer or get a sump going on an alternate day night lighting cycle. It really helps. I had a tank that looked like this

and with using the peroxide method mentioned above by doing half the rocks at one time i got the big rock on the right to look like this.

The algae never came back as I got my nutrients under control and I never let it get out of hand ever again. It eventually loooked like this

Its now upgraded to a 75 gallon and you can see all of that in my build thread by clicking my build thread badge under my name.

The Nem is also very sticky still and barely has color, but still has some..I like the way your rock came out...that's Awesome! Wanna come do mine for me....lol...j.k.

 

[Aldrinlights]

So I did a little manual extraction of algae from the sand bed and to my surprise that stuff was planting itself like grass...ugh. I haven't done the rocks as of yet, but I will once I get more of the sand grass...lol...out of the bed.
I have some pics of the tank now after algae pull and the light system and the recommended light settings for you to check out.
The only component I don't have from the one pic is the Flow Pump for the Sump System.
Let me know what you think please.

That looks like a wonderful QT. You're doing great. It's hard to tell from instructions about the lighting as the only true method would be with a par meter. Call some local stores and see if anyone has one for rent. It will tell you a lot about your lights. Then you can determine if a change is needed.