Leveling tank placed on exterior wall

[Thisisfine]

Tank is placed against an exterior facing wall and there is some run in the floor towards the center. Front of stand really needs to be lifted to be level but a section of the stand isn’t touching the ground as is.

First pic is front to back. Second is side to side. Third and fourth are front base of stand. It’s a 92g corner bow front.

Ideas on how to shim this? I just don’t want to mess with the integrity of the stand. It’s an old aqueon tank and stand and it baffles me the stand holds the tank there way it’s designed looking like so little support.

 

[Oldreefer44]

You can use leveling shims. I used composites. Many choices on Amazon etc.

 

[Thisisfine]

You can use leveling shims. I used composites. Many choices on Amazon etc.

I have some but need to go get more before I start. Is there anything to this as in not messing up the integrity of the load bearing parts of the stand. I'm guessing start from the bowfront corners and work inwards?

 

[mboley]

If you have doubts about the stand I would at least reinforce it with some 2 x 4s or 3/4" plywood. I had the same thoughts on a stand made of press board I had supporting a 135 gallon tank.

 

[Thisisfine]

If you have doubts about the stand I would at least reinforce it with some 2 x 4s or 3/4" plywood. I had the same thoughts on a stand made of press board I had supporting a 135 gallon tank.

Yeah I had considered trying to add a couple of vertical supports with 2x4's but I think it's likely only feasible on the wall facing sides since it's a corner tank. I'm not sure if I can add support in the bowfront. Will have to look into it more

 

[Thisisfine]

@Oldreefer44

This is level but feels like a lotta shim height. What’s best to shim this every few inches or is this unsafe?

For reference - other door and over doesn't need 3 stacked together. It's just this area of floor or tank base that was the greatest gap.

 

[biznatch]

Don't just jam the shims from the front. You should put 1 down 'backwards' (skinny side pointing at you. Then put the next shim on top of it the way you're putting them in now. You want the 2 shims to create a flat surface supporting the stand, not a super steep angle like you have now, only supporting the very front. You can google how to shim for examples/pictures/videos to better explain it.

 

[Thisisfine]

Don't just jam the shims from the front. You should put 1 down 'backwards' (skinny side pointing at you. Then put the next shim on top of it the way you're putting them in now. You want the 2 shims to create a flat surface supporting the stand, not a super steep angle like you have now, only supporting the very front. You can google how to shim for examples/pictures/videos to better explain it.

Thanks - yeah I saw some guides online and figured I had it wrong. I didn't bother filling it yesterday in any case.

This was a relocation where I had to move it ~2hrs to my house. Found out I'm going to have to replace a bulkhead on the drain and doesn't look easily done once full trying to get under it from the front. Moved livestock/coral to a 44g brute can to buy some time.

 

[Thisisfine]

Ok - Built a new stand since the previous stand made me apprehensive and lacked space below. The new stand is hexagonal built modding rocket engineers' plans. The base is made with 2x4 with joists connecting and a 1/2" sheet of plywood for sump etc. to rest on. Supports are 2x4 with 2 for each corner/angle of the hex. The top is 2x6 with joists and a 3/4" plywood top. The bow of the tank doesn't rest of the front support beam thus the 3/4'" top and 2x6 joists. Stand is heavy duty. That's done.

Back to the same issue, even trying a different corner wall. The floor flows about 3/8" from back corner to mid bow. I have shimmed using composite shims under the support columns and a few additional in the long run of the hex up front. I'm having to use upwards of 4 of the composite shims (stacked in opposing directions for a flat surface. With the shims placed under load bearing columns - is there any concern here for stand integrity? The floor loses slope the further in from the exterior walls though having a corner tank in the middle of a room isn't very feasible.

 

[Readywriter]

Ok - Built a new stand since the previous stand made me apprehensive and lacked space below. The new stand is hexagonal built modding rocket engineers' plans. The base is made with 2x4 with joists connecting and a 1/2" sheet of plywood for sump etc. to rest on. Supports are 2x4 with 2 for each corner/angle of the hex. The top is 2x6 with joists and a 3/4" plywood top. The bow of the tank doesn't rest of the front support beam thus the 3/4'" top and 2x6 joists. Stand is heavy duty. That's done.

Back to the same issue, even trying a different corner wall. The floor flows about 3/8" from back corner to mid bow. I have shimmed using composite shims under the support columns and a few additional in the long run of the hex up front. I'm having to use upwards of 4 of the composite shims (stacked in opposing directions for a flat surface. With the shims placed under load bearing columns - is there any concern here for stand integrity? The floor loses slope the further in from the exterior walls though having a corner tank in the middle of a room isn't very feasible.

Its good along the two walls though? Either way what I would do is measure out the slope and build something a little more solid than just shims.

 

[Thisisfine]

Its good along the two walls though? Either way what I would do is measure out the slope and build something a little more solid than just shims.

So, that pic shows the spacing. The two wall corners were shimmed 1/4" to get things leveled. By doing so, the remaining numbers are the spaces between the bottom of the stand and floor once it was levelled. Any suggestions on what could be built?

 

[Thisisfine]

What about this. I could grab some 2x4 and cut the following to go underneath. Ideally I had a table saw but I'd have to make due with skill or jig.

2x 1.5" width wedges that goes 1/4 to 3/4" for the front sides. 2x 1.5" width wedge that goes from 3/4 to 7/8 (opposing directions) for the front panel. Think that should be sufficient or should I do something wider? Wider may necessitate a table saw.

 

[Thisisfine]

Ok, I bought a table saw, made a jig and cut the slopes as best I could to avoid shims. Don't mind the gap in the middle /sigh. (Pic 1)

So the tank is level front corner to front corner (pic 5). It's slightly off mid side to opposing corner as well as back to mid bow (pics 2-4).

Is this enough to cause any concern? This project has become exhausting.

Bottom inserts go from 1/4" to 3/4" from wall to front of hex. Middle is 3/4 to 7/8" in mid - two pieces in opposing directions.

 

[Readywriter]

Sorry for the delay, yea that fix was roughly what I had in mind. As for the other gaps... if you lean on the sides of the stand is there a wobble? A gap with no wobble should be fine, shim what you can. But if theres wobble then I wouldnt trust it.

 

[Thisisfine]

Sorry for the delay, yea that fix was roughly what I had in mind. As for the other gaps... if you lean on the sides of the stand is there a wobble? A gap with no wobble should be fine, shim what you can. But if theres wobble then I wouldnt trust it.

I shimmed what I could on the wall facing sides. Only 5 inches clearance from wall but got a several down.

It's filled about 40%. I'll live in fear for the rest of its existence based how much work was needed to deal with the slope. Will report back when floor has 92g of saltwater covering it.