Lighting that won't need upgrading

[Spare time]

There are books on reef UV lighting... the bulbs are 100% safe and extremely beneficial to your corals. Best reef tanks in the world ever existed had the lamps I'm talking about here. Better than LEDs without that part of the spectrum and specially the cover.
People think LEDs are great and better than old technologies. They call halides and T5s "dead technology" and "outdated". I feel so sorry for the new people getting in this hobby. They just don't know better. Not their fault!
No sense to keep writing here.

Please send me peer reviewed articles on UV of less than 380nm and corals. I am very much wanting to see where you are getting information that there is some biological necessity in corals for UV below 380nm.

 

[zalick]

okay yeah that what I remember reading lol

Basically you control the power depending on your coral needs, and the color balance for your viewing preference. The base spectrum needed for the corals is always present so you can't screw that up.

As opposed to say my Mitras LX7 where I can completely turn off any channel and mess up the spectrum.

Now does this really matter? I don't know, but Kessil spent a lot of money developing this specifically to grow coral, so I assume it works.

 

[oreo54]

So

You didn't misunderstand. It's not about power, it's about spectrum.

Here is a quote from Kessil

"Kessil Logic locks in the ideal spectrum for coral and plant growth, meaning your tank will thrive regardless of the colors you choose."

Usual Kessil bs. That's pretty much secondary since their color range is limited from the get go.

The fact that intensity (watt output) doesn't change as you change color makes it idiot proof moreso than their spectrum claim.

There is no such thing as the perfect spectrum. Just look at the absorption spectrum for zooxanthellate and compare that to what green or red algae absorb.

"Kessil Logic"

@Dana Riddle Did you quote the "cut sheet" or have you taken the time to watch and disgest the above BRS video? If you watched the video. What is your overall take on the Kessil a360's par / uv and kessil logic? Thanks, Freddie I watched the full video, and am impressed with the amount of...

www.reef2reef.com

Older chip diagnostics:

Pink Squares are UV diodes.
BTW no longer applies to newer models but an example only.
Kessil logic may shift power output between ch1 and 2 but the main function is keeping output equal.

Even without it and considering the 2 channels you would be hard pressed to get a "bad" spectrum.
Well all blue may be less efficient.

 

[zalick]

...

Usual Kessil bs. That's pretty much secondary since their color range is limited from the get go.

The fact that intensity (watt output) doesn't change as you change color makes it idiot proof moreso than their spectrum claim.

...

Isn't that the point? Power doesn't change as you change color means they are maintaining the same baseline spectrum? Maybe the two areas: power and spectrum have enough definitional overlap, that I'm not quite understanding and their claim has enough basis in truth to not be fraud.

If they are making easily provable and patently false claims as you suggest, I'd be interested in pursing mass litigation against them for fraud. That's what I do for a living.

 

[oreo54]

Isn't that the point? Maybe the two areas: power and spectrum have enough definitional overlap, that I'm not quite understanding and their claim has enough basis in truth to not be fraud.

If they are making easily provable and patently false claims as you suggest, I'd be interested in pursing mass litigation against them for fraud. That's what I do for a living.

Naaahh never really drops to that level.
Their "You can't really measure Kessils output with a PAR meter " was a bit more flagrant but still had some plausible component (would depend on the PAR meter)..

Power doesn't change as you change color means they are maintaining the same baseline spectrum?

Changing color changes spectrum. Fact the diode choice and channel layout limit it's err range is just a basic design.
As an example if you want to call not having all white diodes one one channel "logic" I suppose they can.

Again, what truly separates the "logic" from other players is the fact that it maintains constant current while changing spectrum.. well to a certain degree. It's not perfect. There are some measured differences between "color" settings and a set "intensity"

Kessil 360X Testing

no offense to you intended but that is sort of the point.. "beliefs"...just like mine.. ;) That's expected w/ every led anywhere...;) This is the "old" a350 as dissected .. I'll collect some relevant data but you need to stop posting the 350 data; it was old six years ago. It wasnt...

www.reef2reef.com

MY addendum from the old thread..

Addendum: TO be fair, it is possible that the blue diodes do produce more photons at a set wattage than the whites sooo it is possible that at lower wattage the REAL output is equal to "whites" at a higher wattage (one would expect some efficiency loss through the phosphors anyways, I guess.

But IF there is a ppfd drop at "blue" significantly below what would be expected for "meter error" then that doesn't apply..

In other words at 50W there could be an equal photon output as at 80W w/ more "whites"..

See it's complicated....

 

[zalick]

Naaahh never really drops to that level.
Their "You can't really measure Kessils output with a PAR meter " was a bit more flagrant but still had some plausable component (would depend on the PR meter)..



Changing color changes spectrum. Fact the diode choice and channel layout limit it's err range is just a basic design.
As an example if you want to call not having all white diodes one one channel "logic" I suppose they can.

Again, what truely seperates the "logic" from other players is the fact that it maintains constant current while changing spectrum.. well to a certain degree. It's not perfect. There are some measured differences between "color" settings and a set "intensity"

Kessil 360X Testing

no offense to you intended but that is sort of the point.. "beliefs"...just like mine.. ;) That's expected w/ every led anywhere...;) This is the "old" a350 as dissected .. I'll collect some relevant data but you need to stop posting the 350 data; it was old six years ago. It wasnt...

www.reef2reef.com

MY addendum from the old thread..


See it's complicated....

Very complicated and thanks for the explanation. Makes more sense now.

 

[Midrats]

LOL!!!!!!!!

That's what I was thinking too when I read that

 

[rgrimaldi123]

Yeah! That's a good option...do you have this on your tank?

Yes but I have a fairly light Ocean Revive LED fixture hanging from it. Its not super sturdy. I believe the max weight is 20Kg which would be fine for a 24" ATI Sunpower. Mine is the 36" version. It can be adjusted to many lengths it's made of the lighter weight 80/20 extruded aluminum. I think it is a pretty good value for what you get.

 

[Midrats]

Here is a shot of the ceiling. The hardware it comes with looks really clean. Even if the anchors are on different parts of your angled ceiling it will still look good as the lamp will be perfectly level floating above the tank.

 

[JL15219]

Here is a shot of the ceiling. The hardware it comes with looks really clean. Even if the anchors are on different parts of your angled ceiling it will still look good as the lamp will be perfectly level floating above the tank.

Yeah that looks very nice and clean.....is it easy to adjust? Say I want to raise it to do a water change will I be able to?

 

[Midrats]

Yes, it has a grip lock system with which the height can easily be adjusted. To raise you simply pull the cable as you lift, to lower a button on top of the grip lock mechanism is depressed to release the cable. Mine is at 8" and I don't need to move it at all when I'm working in the tank.

 

[JL15219]

Just wanted to thank everyone for all the great suggestions and information....really appreciate it!!

 

[stephj03]

Take this for what it's worth, but I would think more about what you actually want the hobby to be. It sounds like a dumb proposition but I promise it's not.

It's actually the reason you've received such strong and polarized feedback about different lighting options.

If you really want to stick with one light for the long haul, and the long haul really is more than 2yrs, you need to decide what a "focus on SPS" will likely mean to you when you get there.

And then you need to find ppl in the SPS forum that have been doing that for multiple yrs and ask them offline what they would do.

 

[stephj03]

Graduating to SPS could mean
1. Having a mixed reef with a few stags and birdsnest at the top of your rocks

2. Having 50% of your corals made up of SPS including several non stag/slimer.acropora

3. Having 70-90% SPS and mostly harder Acropora even lower on your rocks and on the sand.

 

[stephj03]

And the goal of having those SPS could be:

1. Keep a few stick alive with decent color

2. Keep a number of collectible sticks growing with prototypical colors for that strain

3. Maximizing growth rate of colonies while maintaining decent to prototypical colors.

 

[stephj03]

There's a shrinking number of us who a actually 3&3. And we get a bad rap for being salty about light bc we've actually grown colonies under multiple light sources......

 

[stephj03]

2&3 is the profile you will find common in the SPS forum where the standard is a combo of T5 and LED bc LED are still struggling to economically grow and color a high end collection unless the tank is small (less than 50g)

 

[stephj03]

I hate to say it like this and I'm sure I'll catch some heat, but the profile of the avg poster in the lighting forum (here) is 1&1.

Keep that in mind when weighing your options


You have a small tank and that will help you go all LED if you choose. But I would strongly suggest picking someone who posted austained success with more than 50% of their tank stocked with non slimer/stag/BN/Poccis/Stylo SPS to ask.

 

[stephj03]

Going back to your actual goal. Maybe you should ask some of the LED champions on this thread what the best LED light was of 2015.....

Cuz, you know, you're looking for a light you won't have to upgrade or replace.....

If I went back 5yrs, ATI sunpower/powermodule would still be the T5 light of choice for an sps tank.

 

[sde1500]

Started my tank just over 5 years ago now. With a reef Breeder photon v1. Still using it as I convert the tank to SPS dominant with no definitive plans to change it.