Lighting Upgrade

[HTXReefer]

I have an Aqueon 72 gallon bowfront with two AI Hydra 26 HDs. I have not been able to put my hands a PAR meter to measure intensity but I suspect I need more light. My tank is mostly LPS and softies but do have a couple of Montipora. All coral on substrate (zoa garden, elegance, hammer, Favia) have beautiful coloration but very little growth. The few corals I have moved up in the water column look great and are growing pretty quick.
The tank is 48” wide and I’m thinking of upgrading to a T5 LED hybrid or adding an additional AI Hydra 26. I’m looking for suggestions, pros/cons, and any other information I might need to make the best decision. I’m not opposed changing out the AIs for something else either.
This tank will stay mostly LPS but my wife and I are in the planning stages of a 200 gallon SPS dominant tank.

 

[jda]

If you are happy, then stick with what you have. Adding another 26, or some T5s is no big deal if you want to. Although I think that light is by-far the most important variable to keep corals, there are other reasons why stuff grows slowly. The good thing about Z&P is that they will inflate really large or get really long stems if they want more light - if a zoa that should be the size of a pencil eraser is now the size of a nickel, then it wants more light.

For the 200G, you are going to need a lot more light than this... like a minimum of 3x Hydra 52s and 4x T5s, if not more. SPS tanks are easy when everything is small, but shadows and death from the underside area a real issue as they grow older. Also, nearly everybody who adds T5s to their LED lit SPS tanks loves the extra color and coverage.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Do some shopping and try to find a PAR meter. IMHO that's the only way to know if you really need more light.

I agree with all that jda said above.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

When I first switched to the Hydra 26's I was getting 180-200 par at mid tank depth and 80-100 on the bed in a standard Marineland 75g with the lights mounted 8.5" above the water line. This was running them to the BRS configured CoralLab AB+ settings. If all you're going to keep are soft and LPS then this will be fine. If you plan on running any sort of SPS then you will need to add another pair or run a T5 LED hybrid.

I'd still look into renting a PAR meter from BRS or from the local reefing club in your area if you have one.

This will take you to the PAR meter rental on BRS.

Par Meter - Bulk Reef Supply

Shop Par Meter at Bulk Reef Supply where we make reefing fun and easy.

aquarium.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Ebisan]

Get a par meter, wish I had before I switched from my 2x 175W MH to 2x Hydra 52HD. I went with what the recommended settings were at the time and basically most of my anemones melted within 6 months. I kept thinking I didn't have enough light and kept increasing when what I really needed to do was decrease the intensity. I had them set for around 350 par when they really needed much less. Currently back using MH and my measured par at their depth is 135par. Had over 120 anemones (from same clone) and now left with around 20. My tank looks like a wasteland but now recovering.

 

[HTXReefer]

Thank you all for your responses. I’m currently shopping for PAR meters. I’m kind of a gadget guy and would just love to have one. Do any of you have a recommendation on make and model? I do have light meters for my small business and they require calibration every 6 months. Is this required Or recommended for PAR meters as well?
I was running a program with the blues and UV at over 100%. I got the recommended intensities from the BRS (I think) video comparing the AI spectrums to the Radeon( once again I think). I since have imported one of AIs signature programs (see below). I also had the lights sitting 12” above the waterline and have lowered them to 10”. I did notice a new polyp on one of my Zoas this morning. But the real noticeable growth has been on a neon green tip toadstool. It has encrusted to the rock under plug in a matter of 3 weeks but is sitting about midway up the tank.
I do want to keep this tank mostly LPS and softie but would love to eventually get some forgiving SPS to learn with before we setup the new tank. Once again thank you for all of your input. This forum has been a wealth of information and I couldn’t have gotten this far without y’all.

 

[Ron Reefman]

I wish I could help more about PAR meters, but I haven't kept up with all the new hardware. I have a VERY old PAR meter given the new products in the market place over the last 5 years or more. I have an old Apogee QMSS-E I bought maybe 6 years ago??? But the point is, it still works.

I think in general PAR meters are quite simple to use and require no recalibration. At least mine doesn't. Older models had a 'bias' away from the far blue and close to UV spectrum. But Apogee was aware of this and provided a graph that allowed users to make educated guesses as to the actual PAR values. It's not a tool I use too often. But whenever I change tanks, or lights, or corals, it's a great tool to have. I also allow others to use the meter so they don't need to pay out the cash for a tool that gets used so irregularly.

I hope others who have newer PAR meters will jump in here and offer their opinions about what they use.

 

[jda]

Apogee 510 is ready to use meter that needs no underwater or correction factors. It is also one of the most expensive. They have other meters, but you need to usually do a bit of math with them.