Looking to learn more about apex programs

vetteguy53081

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TnFishwater98

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Hello all! Does anyone have the Neptune apex waves? I currently have a 90gal Versa aquarium with a corner left overflow. I am looking to see what are some programs that are currently working out there. Currently i have a mostly fish aquarium. 1 small monticap, 2 anemone and a large standing star polyp. I don’t feel like I have good flow and my sand bed looks very brown and dirty. Thanks in advance for all the help.

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Hello all! Does anyone have the Neptune apex waves? I currently have a 90gal Versa aquarium with a corner left overflow. I am looking to see what are some programs that are currently working out there. Currently i have a mostly fish aquarium. 1 small monticap, 2 anemone and a large standing star polyp. I don’t feel like I have good flow and my sand bed looks very brown and dirty. Thanks in advance for all the help.

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joseperezred

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My apologies all, I’m still new to this and didn’t realize I was getting some replies. I guess I need to figure out how to turn notifications on so that I know when one replies. I’ve attached my current schedule and mode. This mode does kick up a lot of sand.
 
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joseperezred

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Thanks for all the shout-outs!

I have a Reefer XL 425 (88 gallon display), so roughly the same size as your 90. I use one WAV on the back left side aimed diagonally towards the other end, and then a Gyre on the right end. Between the two, I get a nice turbulent flow. I'm not sure I would run the tank with only a single WAV.

The WAV itself has a number of built-in flow patterns you can choose from. This is a page from the WAV QuickStart Guide:
Screen Shot 2021-12-03 at 4.39.42 PM.png


I like the Mavericks program, and run it 24/7 at 70%, along with the Gyre alternating between forward at 70% for 10 seconds and reverse at 100% for 5 seconds.

As others above have mentioned, I have written a series of Apex tutorials. None of them focus on the WAV, but a lot of the programming principles I discuss can be applied to the WAV, in particular the Feed Cycles topic. See:
Thank you. I will definitely take a deep dive into your article. Question… I have the corner overflow on the back left. Would you still suggest I put that wave there? (I hate that corner overflow)
 
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joseperezred

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Welcome! Glad you joined. Nice aquascape rockwork and your coralline is taking off nicely!

Have you considered starting your build thread? I found its a great place to document my tank's evolution for myself. Like you, I started tank first then joined, so I'm still finding myself going back collecting pictures & updating historically as well as current state. Once you create your first post in your thread and link it to your account, they will give you build badge (look left, under my ID)

This is a good reference book type online article I still review:
Awesome. Thanks! I did the aqua scape myself first time too. Yes coralline is taking off but I’m starting to see brown creeping up. Not sure if it’s due to poor flow. Hopefully I can get a grip of it ASAP.
 
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joseperezred

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THESE ARE DIATOMS AND NORMAL WITH A NEW SYSTEM and typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you clear up the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass.
For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
Thank you. I do use RODI water and actually make my own using the BRS 5 stage which I’ve upgraded to a 6 stage and use the Aqua pump to keep my psi right at 45 (if I’m not mistaking) I replace membrane probably every 1.5years and other 1x year except for the DI resin that gets replaced every 6 months or as soon as I get 1ppm reading. I haven’t used filter socks until last Friday and replace every 3 days (boring!) I’m looking to upgrade to the trigger sump 39 with roller Mat for Christmas I hope :). Skimmer since using the filter socks has been acting up since the sump water lever changes a lot. Still working to fine tune that. Otherwise it works champ (reef octopus Reagal 150 int). I do think I overfeed. I hate to feel like the fishes are still hungry so I generally stand there for about 15-20 min feeding mysis and brine shrimp as well as reef roids. That I’ll work on for sure.
 

High pressure shells: Do you look for signs of stress in the invertebrates in your reef tank?

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