LPS not good Skeleton showing?

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That’s a good start. Running the skimmer a little drier should help reduce nutrient export. I’d also make sure you’re not running GFO or any other phosphate-removing media. If you’re not, I’d give the increased feeding about a week and test again before jumping into phosphate dosing like Brightwell’s NeoPhos. Sometimes the bacteria and corals will soak up the extra nutrients before your test kit starts showing an increase. If phosphate is still unreadable after a week of heavier feeding, then I’d consider dosing a phosphate supplement slowly like NeoPhos. The key is to bring nutrients up gradually while keeping your alkalinity stable around 8 dKH.
Yeah ill give it a week or two. i dont rinse the frozen as well to keep as much nutrients in the tank atm and not running any special media my tank is just consuming the phosphates like crazy. I got my alk up to 8 do i just dose every 24 hours how ever much my tank uses to keep it stable ? I dont think itll fluctuate much with what i have in there anyways atm
 
That’s a good start. Running the skimmer a little drier should help reduce nutrient export. I’d also make sure you’re not running GFO or any other phosphate-removing media. If you’re not, I’d give the increased feeding about a week and test again before jumping into phosphate dosing like Brightwell’s NeoPhos. Sometimes the bacteria and corals will soak up the extra nutrients before your test kit starts showing an increase. If phosphate is still unreadable after a week of heavier feeding, then I’d consider dosing a phosphate supplement slowly like NeoPhos. The key is to bring nutrients up gradually while keeping your alkalinity stable around 8 dKH.
Yeah ill give it a week or two. i dont rinse the frozen as well to keep as much nutrients in the tank atm and not running any special media my tank is just consuming the phosphates like crazy. I got my alk up to 8 do i just dose every 24 hours how ever much my tank uses to keep it stable ? I dont think itll fluctuate much with what i have in there anyways atm
Yeah. I would get a Doser and start dosing that if it’s fluctuating that quick. You could do a two part and get away with just two dosing heads, but if you want to dose minor elements you could get a 4 head Doser and do something like the Red Sea 4 part program. Part 1- Mag/Cal, part 2 - Alk/PH, part 3 - Potassium, Boron, and Halogens, and part 4 - Bioactive Trace Elements
 
I would check my refractometer calibration with an actual standard too. Diy or premade.
 
I would check the refractometer with a tropic marine hydrometer or ICP. I trashed my refractometer years ago. The things are terrible
 

IF YOU HAD TO OPERATE EVERYTHING ELSE MANUALLY, WHICH AUTOMATED SYSTEM WOULD YOU KEEP?

  • Auto top-off

    Votes: 38 58.5%
  • Automated dosing

    Votes: 4 6.2%
  • Mechanical filtration / roller filter

    Votes: 4 6.2%
  • Automated water testing

    Votes: 3 4.6%
  • Automatic feeding

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Lighting schedule

    Votes: 9 13.8%
  • Controller and remote monitoring

    Votes: 3 4.6%
  • Leak detection and emergency shutoff

    Votes: 1 1.5%
  • Automatic water changes

    Votes: 2 3.1%
  • None. I prefer to operate everything manually

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Something else (explain in the comments)

    Votes: 1 1.5%
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