Maintaining Nitrate and Phosphate

[Rhetoric]

I think adding fish is the most enjoyable way to increase and maintain Nitrates. You might have to dose in the shirt term. Need to find that natural Balance.

 

[OctaviusBrine]

I followed the instructions to add ~5mL per 75 gallons per day which they say on the bottle should raise 0.5ppm which they say is the max advisable per day. Should I disregard this and simply dose more heavily?

If you are adding one capful a day and testing 24 hours later with a tester you know is good. then I would slowly increase till you start seeing your nitrates going up. That’s what I have done in the past. That’s just my opinion though. I’m by far no chemist.

 

[ChrisfromBrick]

So I am finally at the point through consistent testing and monitoring that I believe most maladies affecting the coral health in my display tank is due to the near-zero nitrate and elevated phosphate. I have finally tuned in my kalk dosing to maintain ~8-9 dkh, my ph is consistently ~8.2. I am needing some advice and guidance on how to maintain, in a sustainable way, a healthy level of nitrate and phosphate. about a year ago, both were zero. I got rid of my skimmer and algae turf scrubber, which helped a bit because now I have phosphate buildup, which is now generally around 0.10 on Hanna ULR tester. However, nitrate is still consistently undetectable or very near zero as tested with red sea, and API just for a second indication. I have tried dosing neonitro manually, and cannot seem to get readable nitrate following the bottle instructions. What sustainable options do I have to achieve and maintain a healthy and balanced level of Nitrate and Phosphate? It seems that ~5 nitrate and ~0.05 phosphate is a decent goal, open to suggestions here as well. thanks in advance.

if your phosphate is stable at 0.10 (which is completely fine) why do you have to chase it down to 0.05? The nitrates is a valid issue but you’re good with that P04 level.

 

[TX_REEF]

if your phosphate is stable at 0.10 (which is completely fine) why do you have to chase it down to 0.05? The nitrates is a valid issue but you’re good with that P04 level.

That’s a secondary goal, and less important. I figure it would be easier to maintain a lower level of nitrate and balance it with a good ratio of phosphate. The alternative is raise nitrate to ~10 to get that “goal” 1:100 ratio, but my main concern is how to sustainably raise and maintain nitrate without raising phosphate, meaning feeding heavier does not seem to be a viable option. So basically, I’m wanting the most sustainable and straightforward way to raise nitrate. It seems my options so far are below, just wanting guidance and experience on which is the most foolproof:

1. Get more fish. Concern here is I’m not sure what fish would get along with the ones I have already, especially the yellow tang and coral beauty. Perhaps as my fish grow larger, the “natural” nitrate level will increase.
2. Dose Neonitro. Concern here is dosing the maximum advised by the bottle has yielded no nitrate accumulation.
3. Dose sodium nitrate. Not familiar with this method, have to research and determine downsides?
4. Dose ammonia source. I will research Randy’s method on this, concern here is simply my lack of experience and deep-seated fear of ammonia

 

[TX_REEF]

Another observation I have is in comparison to my frag system. The only legitimate difference between the two that the frag tank uses filter floss instead of a roller mat. The frag tank also does not show detectable nitrate when I test, but all the corals in there are happier, and I have 2 BTAs there from the same parent that are visibly happier. So I wonder if the Red Sea reef mat is removing too many solid from the water before it can decompose and be processed into nitrate, whereas the filter floss in the frag tank captures the solids which then decompose and provide more nitrates to the corals? I’m not sure how else to test this theory other than swapping the reef mat for filter floss, which just seems so backwards!!!

 

[CHSUB]

So I am finally at the point through consistent testing and monitoring that I believe most maladies affecting the coral health in my display tank is due to the near-zero nitrate

The frag tank also does not show detectable nitrate when I test, but all the corals in there are happier, and I have 2 BTAs there from the same parent that are visibly happier.

No giving advise, but wondering the thinking?

2 tanks both with undetectable no3, DT=poor coral health, frag tank=visibly happier.
Solution: raise no3 in tank with poor coral health? How does that help if low no3 has no adverse effects on frag tank?

 

[TX_REEF]

I

No giving advise, but wondering the thinking?

2 tanks both with undetectable no3, DT=poor coral health, frag tank=visibly happier.
Solution: raise no3 in tank with poor coral health? How does that help if low no3 has no adverse effects on frag tank?

It’s a fair question, I’m making the observation that the only difference between the two tanks, besides the dimensions, is the reef mat in the DT, which I am assuming would be removing more solids from the water before they can decompose. It is an assumption that the corals in the frag are consuming the nitrate, and the chaeto there grows fast as well. The DT on the other hand has no nutrient export other than a few small frags and coralline algae, and still there is no buildup of nitrate. I also feed the DT more heavily than the frag tank.

All that being said, I’m 100% open to other possibilities and diagnostic suggestions!

 

[CHSUB]

You speak of, “poor coral health”? Could you elaborate more on what this is and what kind of corals you are experiencing this in? From example: Acros no growth, pale color, and stn from the base.

 

[FernBluffReef]

I personally find when my PO4 gets to .05 corals start to get unhappy. I’m targeting Nitrates 10 and PO4 of .1 and finding things to be happy there. I’m personally having to dose a small amount of NeoNitro and NeoPhos to maintain those levels.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Is it ok to raise nitrate 10ppm in 24 hours?

Not by ammonia dosing unless you get to that point over an extended period. Is there any rush?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

No giving advise, but wondering the thinking?

2 tanks both with undetectable no3, DT=poor coral health, frag tank=visibly happier.
Solution: raise no3 in tank with poor coral health? How does that help if low no3 has no adverse effects on frag tank?

Ammonia and other N sources need not be the same in a tank just because nitrate is similar.

 

[TX_REEF]

Not by ammonia dosing unless you get to that point over an extended period. Is there any rush?

No rush, just considering the best approach

 

[TX_REEF]

You speak of, “poor coral health”? Could you elaborate more on what this is and what kind of corals you are experiencing this in? From example: Acros no growth, pale color, and stn from the base.

Acros bleached randomly and rapidly. Candy canes are slowly shriveling and their flesh flowy disintegrating. Micromussa flesh are slowly coming detached from the skeleton. Zoas opening less fully. Xenia appear shrunken and less supple.

 

[mmatspr]

Feed some reef roids to the corals every 2-3 days

It’s like…Powdered phosphate lol

RedSea AB+ is also a good choice. It will definitely add some PO4

 

[bobnicaragua]

Hey TX-Reef, hope you’re doing well!

I have the same issue with my tank. When I feed enough to get my nitrates up to 3-6, my phosphates just keep going up.

I have 2 bags in the sump mixed with GFO and carbon and I change one every two weeks. Phosphate is usually below .1