maintaining PH

hbash

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If you mean their pH checker HI 780, then just to clarify, like all Hanna checker calibration vials, the calibration kit does not confirm accuracy. It is not a true standard that you check the actual procedure.
It merely confirms proper operation of the electronics. If the reagents or procedures are off for any reason, the results can be inaccurate.
Not sure why the calibration vials for the pH don't confirm the accuracy of the checker. One vial is sealed with a the "zero" fluid and a second with that fluid with the reagent. You run the check and read the checker's readout. I expected 8.0 from the calibration vial and that is exactly what the checker stated. The only issue could be if the reagent is off, no? As to procedure(s) being off, this is true for any test and tester. If you don't follow procedure your results won't be good.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Not sure why the calibration vials for the pH don't confirm the accuracy of the checker. One vial is sealed with a the "zero" fluid and a second with that fluid with the reagent. You run the check and read the checker's readout. I expected 8.0 from the calibration vial and that is exactly what the checker stated. The only issue could be if the reagent is off, no? As to procedure(s) being off, this is true for any test and tester. If you don't follow procedure your results won't be good.

All they are is a color standard that checks the electronics. They may not have any chemicals in common with the kit.

If the reagent is bad, if your vials are scratched, if you have poor protocol techniques, etc., this standard says you are good to go! In reality, you may not be.

ALL of those are checked by a true standard, which would be a sample with a fixed pH concentration that you actually test. That is what scientists do.
 
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melonheadorion

melonheadorion

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I'm one of these whackos that thinks PH is the one number you should be chasing or at least managing.
my 20g, the phosphates are .2 with nitrates usually around 20. although ive only had zoas a mushroom and a hammer coral, they always did well. especially the hammer coral. i bought it with 4 heads about a year ago, and it now has 12, so high phosphates i know arent bad, but i guess there is so many people that will drag you behind the bus if you have elevated phosphate at all, and swear to it working for them with great looking reefs. the individual that i get corals from, who has an amazing coral store, it seems there is always something that he blames right away. as soon as i mentioned the digitata issue, first thing he asked was about pH followed by phosphate. he chased the idea of the unstable pH as being the issue. he didnt really mention much about the phosphate, so i assume that he thought they were ok. when i mentioned where my phosphate was his response was something like "oh. ya" as if phosphate was an issue, and knowing the type of clean tank person he is, i figured his remarks were because it was too high at .02.

i generally only use reef roids once a week, i guess i could move to twice a week to see if i can get it up a little, but i dont really want to be chasing algae issues then either.
 

BanjoBandito

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my 20g, the phosphates are .2 with nitrates usually around 20. although ive only had zoas a mushroom and a hammer coral, they always did well. especially the hammer coral. i bought it with 4 heads about a year ago, and it now has 12, so high phosphates i know arent bad, but i guess there is so many people that will drag you behind the bus if you have elevated phosphate at all, and swear to it working for them with great looking reefs. the individual that i get corals from, who has an amazing coral store, it seems there is always something that he blames right away. as soon as i mentioned the digitata issue, first thing he asked was about pH followed by phosphate. he chased the idea of the unstable pH as being the issue. he didnt really mention much about the phosphate, so i assume that he thought they were ok. when i mentioned where my phosphate was his response was something like "oh. ya" as if phosphate was an issue, and knowing the type of clean tank person he is, i figured his remarks were because it was too high at .02.

i generally only use reef roids once a week, i guess i could move to twice a week to see if i can get it up a little, but i dont really want to be chasing algae issues then either.
Phosphates are a hindrance to SPS, beyond that if you can keep your algae in check then “whatever”. There’s extremes for everything. There’s a great MANCA speech from a few years back about phosphates. Dude has an incredible acro tank and was running 1.4 ppm in phosphates. Now, he was a “biologist” and obviously knew what he was doing but I think a lot of it’s overblown. We know algae eats phosphates so it’s an easy target to nitpick. I’ll try and find that video. It made me a better reefer. At least a happier reefer.
 
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