Mandarin Dragonet or leopard wrasse??

Snail Man

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I need help deciding which of these options would best fit my tank. About six months ago I purchased a 14 inch wide green carpet anemone for a 55 gallon tank, so regardless of feeding (because I have a 20 gallon refugium to provide pods) which has the best chance of survival
 

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I would be a little nervous that the mandarin may land or or try and perch on the nem.
 
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I would be a little nervous that the mandarin may land or or try and perch on the nem.
I fear the same. Maybe some context will give a bit better idea of what I’m working with, in the photo the nem is in the shape of a rock if that changes anything. I think he has no I tension in moving
 

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My opinion if you have a 55 gallon tank with a 14 inch fish eating nem, I would stick with some kind of clownfish. If not that, then I would go with the leopard wrasse. The mandarin will be nem food for sure.
 
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My opinion if you have a 55 gallon tank with a 14 inch fish eating nem, I would stick with some kind of clownfish. If not that, then I would go with the leopard wrasse. The mandarin will be nem food for sure.
I spoke with my local lfs, they said that my pair of clown fish that host the nem should keep any other fish at bay. Also the tank does have a foxface rabbit fish and it has been fine for months. From what I hear tho a leopard wrasse may be the play
 

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I need help deciding which of these options would best fit my tank. About six months ago I purchased a 14 inch wide green carpet anemone for a 55 gallon tank, so regardless of feeding (because I have a 20 gallon refugium to provide pods) which has the best chance of survival
Wrasse
 

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Leopard wrasses are great once they are alive and happy in your tank. I have no idea how they will interact with a carpet nem--mine steers cleer of the RFAs and the BTAs but dies swim close to them. They can also decimate a pod population.
 
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Leopard wrasses are great once they are alive and happy in your tank. I have no idea how they will interact with a carpet nem--mine steers cleer of the RFAs and the BTAs but dies swim close to them. They can also decimate a pod population.
So if I was to get the wrasse, I have about 30 pounds of sand and 40 pounds of rock, and a bio block, as well as a ball of chaeto the size of a softball, is this enough to keep the pods going, if not what could I improve on
 
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So if I was to get the wrasse, I have about 30 pounds of sand and 40 pounds of rock, and a bio block, as well as a ball of chaeto the size of a softball, is this enough to keep the pods going, if not what could I improve on
Also the refugium is low flow, and the tank has a hair algae problem for some reason (my suspicion is the nutrients I feed the Ben if the current USA light) so I want to stear clear of a high nutrient dose of food for a pod population
 

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So if I was to get the wrasse, I have about 30 pounds of sand and 40 pounds of rock, and a bio block, as well as a ball of chaeto the size of a softball, is this enough to keep the pods going, if not what could I improve on
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

You're probably fine. Once they start eating prepared foods, they pig out, so they don't rely on pods. But they love hunting all day long, so don't be surprised if all those pods on your glass disappear!

The biggest challenge is getting a leopard alive and in your tank, then acclimating to your light schedule and eating. Then it's smooth saling from there. They don't ship well and often die in transit or arrive injured and die soon after. If you can get one locally that is already awake during the day and eating, you'll have much better chances of success. Otherwise, prepare for a few possible DOAs, reshipping and possibly deaths after arrival before you get a survivor (or maybe luck out first time around). Getting them shipped in a bigger bag with plenty of sand helps, as well as having a "landing pad" tank that you can wuickly bring to the salinity of the bag water and let them slowly acclimate to DT salinity over several days--this tank should have plenty of sand and preferably natural decor like live rocks for the leopard to hide from view outside of the sand -- they can really use a few days to destress.

Very hardy and lovely fish once they're in your tank and doing well.
 
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¯\_(ツ)_/¯

You're probably fine. Once they start eating prepared foods, they pig out, so they don't rely on pods. But they love hunting all day long, so don't be surprised if all those pods on your glass disappear!

The biggest challenge is getting a leopard alive and in your tank, then acclimating to your light schedule and eating. Then it's smooth saling from there. They don't ship well and often die in transit or arrive injured and die soon after. If you can get one locally that is already awake during the day and eating, you'll have much better chances of success. Otherwise, prepare for a few possible DOAs, reshipping and possibly deaths after arrival before you get a survivor (or maybe luck out first time around). Getting them shipped in a bigger bag with plenty of sand helps, as well as having a "landing pad" tank that you can wuickly bring to the salinity of the bag water and let them slowly acclimate to DT salinity over several days--this tank should have plenty of sand and preferably natural decor like live rocks for the leopard to hide from view outside of the sand -- they can really use a few days to destress.

Very hardy and lovely fish once they're in your tank and doing well.
My lfs always has these fish in stock and very healthy most times. But I may need to add sand to the tank, I have a 1.5 inch sand bed in some places high in others lower. Is this gonna keep it happy?
 

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My lfs always has these fish in stock and very healthy most times. But I may need to add sand to the tank, I have a 1.5 inch sand bed in some places high in others lower. Is this gonna keep it happy?
I think it will be fine. They say 2+" is better, but mine is higher and lower in areas, too, and I think it's about 1.5" on average.
 

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