Siri just informed me, there are just over 12 millimeters. Lol so I think it would work?I have 1/2 inch glass, I don’t know how many millimeters that is.
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Siri just informed me, there are just over 12 millimeters. Lol so I think it would work?I have 1/2 inch glass, I don’t know how many millimeters that is.
Siri just informed me, there are just over 12 millimeters. Lol so I think it would work?
I have started feed more frozen food. For a while there I was just feeding pellets. I have noticed in the last couple of days while feeding frozen food, the fish are far less aggressive to each other. This could just be a fluke but I'm going to keep it up and see what happens.My guess is the Achilles lowered activity level was due to lower oxygen levels in the water when you had low flow.
I think I have solved the mystery of the GHA. I will let you judge for your self.
Yea, I determined phosphates were not the issue when I got the new tester. (Sorry, I forgot to post that.) Since the GHA is going away, I'm just going to let it be, and see what happens. I no longer have any filter media like GFO running the system. Thank you for the link that is very helpful.I'm confused by this...if this is the PHOSPHORUS ULR Hanna checker, 31ppb PHOSPHORUS is equal to 0.095ppm PHOSPHATE...which is well within a normal range - even desirable in many tanks.
Bottoming out your phosphate to 0 will hurt your corals and also allow for dinoflagellates to take hold...a much worse enemy than GHA.
This sounds to me like a standard "ugly phase". The more you do to "correct" this now is actually only going to set you back in getting this system stable. Just be patient. Let it look ugly for a month. Keep your parameters in check to avoid Dinos.
Reef tanks are not something that look good overnight.
That's a great suggestion. I'll do that. I was also thinking about getting an air stone for the sump. All though I'm not quit sold on that idea yet. I will watch the ORP levels, and see what happens. In the mean time I will try and point the gyres in a way that will agitate the surface of water as much as possible.If you set the gyres as high as is practical to ripple the water surface strongly, that should offset the skimmer being turned off, as your fish load is not high yet.
I like this idea and I think it will work. However, it relies on me to do it on a frequent basis, and the odds of that happing are very slim. I was thinking about having the Apex turning off the skimmer at night, and one during the day. Just as a trial to see what impact it has on nutrients.Also you could keep the skimmer running 24/7 and add/remove the collection cup to control how much skimmate you remove per day.