mfollen’s 300 CDA Reef

Another classic
Seduction zoa
96808250-F1ED-485B-9439-BC59B1B98A28.jpeg
 
Hey, I have a huge question for you. I read a thread on you having sps recede at tips and wanted to know did you figure out what it was? How did you stop it?
 
Hello!

It’s been some time since I had those issues in particular. I never discovered the cause of those prior issues.

It may be due to a variety of potential issues. I recommend doing the full scan top to bottom of water issues or contaminants as well. But certainly start analyzing the basics with nutrient assessment, etc. good luck!
 
Looking good! Do you run a UV on this tank and/or the angel tank? Or have your QT processes negated the need for a UV??
 
I ran UV on most of my older fish-only systems, I even ran UV on my most recent acro dominated 180 gallon a few years ago. It was a great idea for fish health, and at the time theoretical to prevent or mitigate coral-related bacterial issues.

After running UV for the first 8-10 months of my current CDA system to keep Dino’s and other bad guys away, I took it offline and have not looked back. I haven’t had it running for over a year now.
This was for several reasons, but driven by a goal to change my water column-based bacteria composition to more replicate a natural reef composition. This was based on aquabiomics data and UV bacterial impact findings.
I actually am not running UV as well on that same 180g today that is now an angelfish tank, which I am surprised I have been able to. 4 large angelfish species, a powder blue hybrid and a few other fish. I never see ich.

As for fish parasites, everyone has their experiences and approaches, but I am 100% confident in my approach to have a successful system fish-wise.

I don’t worry about ich, but I freak out about anything else: flukes, oodinum, brook, and ESPECIALLY velvet.
Ich is manageable, so long as you follow these principles:
1. QT. QT is 100% a must to prevent as many pathogens as possible. Every fish needs to be QT’d. Inverts on a fishless system for at least 4 days to prevent velvet eggs. I don’t QT coral frags.
2. Healthy food and a variety of food. Frequent (4-8) daily feedings.
3. Minimize stress. Any bullying or prolonged stress will lead to an ich flare up.

Do you run UV?

It is an absolute great tool to use when needed.
I would run one during the first year of every new tank. Then I would only use when needed to solve a problem.
 
I ran UV on most of my older fish-only systems, I even ran UV on my most recent acro dominated 180 gallon a few years ago. It was a great idea for fish health, and at the time theoretical to prevent or mitigate coral-related bacterial issues.

After running UV for the first 8-10 months of my current CDA system to keep Dino’s and other bad guys away, I took it offline and have not looked back. I haven’t had it running for over a year now.
This was for several reasons, but driven by a goal to change my water column-based bacteria composition to more replicate a natural reef composition. This was based on aquabiomics data and UV bacterial impact findings.
I actually am not running UV as well on that same 180g today that is now an angelfish tank, which I am surprised I have been able to. 4 large angelfish species, a powder blue hybrid and a few other fish. I never see ich.

As for fish parasites, everyone has their experiences and approaches, but I am 100% confident in my approach to have a successful system fish-wise.

I don’t worry about ich, but I freak out about anything else: flukes, oodinum, brook, and ESPECIALLY velvet.
Ich is manageable, so long as you follow these principles:
1. QT. QT is 100% a must to prevent as many pathogens as possible. Every fish needs to be QT’d. Inverts on a fishless system for at least 4 days to prevent velvet eggs. I don’t QT coral frags.
2. Healthy food and a variety of food. Frequent (4-8) daily feedings.
3. Minimize stress. Any bullying or prolonged stress will lead to an ich flare up.

Do you run UV?

It is an absolute great tool to use when needed.
I would run one during the first year of every new tank. Then I would only use when needed to solve a problem.

I currently am not but am plumbing it in currently, it's been sitting around while my tank has been getting gone. Your tip of running it while tank is new is lighting a fire under my butt to get it up and running lol

Definitely need to make it out your way one of these days and see both crazy systems.
 
Are you looking to use UV for parasite control or to fight uglies / Dino’s?
 
Are you looking to use UV for parasite control or to fight uglies / Dino’s?

Parasites mainly but I do notice my water is turning very slightly green, ozone is something I've been considering also for water clarity.
 

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