Micro bubbles

[mandi29221]

So my tank has been running since yesterday. I have a sump. In my sump is a bubble trap along with filter floss inbetween 2nd department and return department. My return pump is spitting out micro bubbles still how do I stop the bubbles.

 

[P-Dub]

That's a tough one particularly since you have a bubble trap and floss to collect the bubbles. Is your return pump submerged or is it dry? If it is dry sometimes you can have a small leak and the suction of the pump will venturi in air at the fittings. Other than that I got nothing for you, Pic of the set-up might help others to diagnose your issue. As well, the sank could just use some time to let things settle out.

 

[mandi29221]

That's a tough one particularly since you have a bubble trap and floss to collect the bubbles. Is your return pump submerged or is it dry? If it is dry sometimes you can have a small leak and the suction of the pump will venturi in air at the fittings. Other than that I got nothing for you, Pic of the set-up might help others to diagnose your issue. As well, the sank could just use some time to let things settle out.

It's submerged here's a picture

 

[P-Dub]

I would say that there is insufficient water level in your sump. The level in the return chamber is way too close to the intake and the amount of water flowing over your baffles is a virtual waterfall creating a tremendous amount of turbulence and rendering the floss only marginally effective. The water level should be up to the level of your second to the last baffle.

 

[mandi29221]

I would say that there is insufficient water level in your sump. The level in the return chamber is way too close to the intake and the amount of water flowing over your baffles is a virtual waterfall creating a tremendous amount of turbulence and rendering the floss only marginally effective.

It was higher earlier husband tried to fix the bubble issue. I guess he made it worse...

 

[P-Dub]

It was higher earlier husband tried to fix the bubble issue. I guess he made it worse...

I would definitely say yes, but he tried and that counts for a lot. Fill it up to as full as you can so that when the power is shut off the sump just fills up to the top. If you have to, and I would strongly recommend it, have an anti-siphon mechanism/valve installed on your return line. If that is not possible, drill an anti-siphon hole close to the surface of your return line in the DT. I did that just below the surface on my tank when originally set up to prevent water flowing back into the sump. This allowed for maximum water in the sump, increasing the overall tank water volume. Just be aware of the working depth of your skimmer. You may have to put it on a stand in the sump.

 

[mandi29221]

I would definitely say yes, but he tried and that counts for a lot. Fill it up to as full as you can so that when the power is shut off the sump just fills up to the top. If you have to, and I would strongly recommend it, have an anti-siphon mechanism/valve installed on your return line. If that is not possible, drill an anti-siphon hole close to the surface of your return line in the DT. I did that just below the surface on my tank when originally set up to prevent water flowing back into the sump. This allowed for maximum water in the sump, increasing the overall tank water volume. Just be aware of the working depth of your skimmer. You may have to put it on a stand in the sump.

We have the hole drilled at the water line on display. I turned down my water controller. So like a 1in is above it now

 

[P-Dub]

We have the hole drilled at the water line on display. I turned down my water controller. So like a 1in is above it now

Fill that sump and give it a couple of days to settle out. 1 inch is still a lot of water flowing back into the sump. you might have to drill a second hole just below the working level in your display tank. Shut off power and fill the sump to the top and see if you need an additional hole drilled in the return line closer to the surface. You might even be able to dispense with the floss. Report back.

 

[mandi29221]

We have the hole drilled at the water line on display. I turned down my water controller. So like a 1in is above it now

Still alot of bubbles.

 

[P-Dub]

Still alot of bubbles.

Ther is still not enough water in the return chamber and I have to assume the entire sump. Are you getting things resolved?

 

[mandi29221]

Ther is still not enough water in the return chamber and I have to assume the entire sump. Are you getting things resolved?

It's currently 3 inches from top of screen piece and still ALOT OF BUBBLES

 

[P-Dub]

I think a clear photo (or multiple clear photos) of your entire sump is in order to better diagnose. Since you are running your return pump in-sump, the problem lay within the sump somehow, most likely. If you are referring to the screen piece being the return pump intake screen, your sump water level is still FAR too low. The water level in the sump should be running close to the top 1/3-1/4 of your sump give or take, enough to have little to no noticeable flow over the baffles. If water is tumbling within your sump at any point and particularly just prior to your return chamber then that is likely the problem, from my experience. There are bubbles getting to the pump and being sucked into the impeller. Eliminate any source of bubble formation via in-sump turbulence and you should have the problem licked.

 

[timnem70]

When your tank is brand new and has nothing to skim, bubbles generated will just escape from the skimmer in copious amounts. Usually, no amount of trapping or media will suffice. Allow for biological loads to form before you start skimming. Mine produces tons of bubbles after a significant water change and takes a few to readjust.

 

[timnem70]

I may have spoken before really reading. It doesnt say skimmer bubbles. I can however see in that first picture that you've got essentailly a water fall into that floss. As others have said, fill your sump up further so you elimiate the effect.

 

[lapin]

My 2 pennys worth
From your pictures I see bubbles being drawn into the return pump. Picture #1. If this is the case then you need to reduce the waterfall as seen in picture #2. Solutions are :
1 Raise the water level in the return chamber so the water does not have so far to fall = less bubbles
2 Reduce the flow thru the sump so there is less water going over the falls = less bubbles
3 Lower the baffle so the water does not have so far to fall = less bubbles
4 Add a 3rd baffle forcing the bubbles to go over it and pop, instead of straight into the pump.

 

[mandi29221]

Ther is still not enough water in the return chamber and I have to assume the entire sump. Are you getting things resolved?

Still ALOT. I added 2 gallons and turned it all the way down

 

[P-Dub]

Pictures of the entire sump, please?

 

[mandi29221]

Pictures of the entire sump, please?

I just realized you asked for a picture.

 

[P-Dub]

OK, I see your protein skimmer is not running. Has it always been that way?
Anywhere your water is actually flowing over the baffles, like a waterfall, like I can see in the lower right of picture #1 and possibly pic #2, there is the potential for bubble introduction so fill to where there is no falling water. Next get rid of the floss in the last baffle. I see that you only have two baffles and only one chamber to trap bubbles just prior to the return chamber. I also see that this is a DIY sump. (Mine as well). As such it shouldn't be too much of a problem to modify this section so that you have three baffles and two chambers for a true bubble trap just prior to your return chamber. I would place three baffles in a high-low-high configuration. This just makes cleaning the sump easier and removing detritus less of a pain. Not necessary though just easier down the line, so to speak. Currently, you have a low-high baffle configuration prior to your return chamber. Once you modify the sump, do the following.
1. Turn off everything. (You have not added or removed any water to the tank or sump, you just filled the sump to the level before you made baffle modifications) 2. Fill your sump to just barely below the top of your sump. 3. Start your return pump & let the water come to finds its level in the sump. 3. Start your protein skimmer. At this point, you will not have any floss in your new two-chamber, three baffle bubble trap this time. The trick will be figuring out how high to have your baffles. This is where adjustable baffles help. Generally, if I'm doing the DIY sump route with glued baffles I find my ideal water level to keep max water in the sump and proper flow while at the same time having the proper level for the protein skimmer before installing the baffles and then mark that level. If, at this point, you do not have sufficient water in the sump to eliminate any waterfall effects over your baffles you need to start adjusting the flow of your return pump and/or plug the anti-siphon hole you have drilled in your return line within your DT. Once you have figured enough flow, max 10 X tank volume, then put your anti -siphon hole just a hair below the surface on your return line in the DT. The idea is to eliminate as much, if not most all turbulence in the sump. Once you have done this, since you do not have livestock in your tank (I'm assuming), turn off the skimmer till you have something to skim. Don't put the floss back in. That is just a bubble trap that will let bigger bubbles through. The flow has to be fine-tuned so you are not pushing bubbles to your return section of the sump. Make sure to eliminate any bubbles sticking to any surfaces and let this ride for a week or so. It can be a little tricky but this is doable. You might have too small of a sump for the return pump. If you could give specifics about the size of your tank in volume and the size and dimensions of your sump as well as the return pump and rating as well as the protein skimmer type and size that might help others with any additional ideas/info.

 

[mandi29221]

OK, I see your protein skimmer is not running. Has it always been that way?
Anywhere your water is actually flowing over the baffles, like a waterfall, like I can see in the lower right of picture #1 and possibly pic #2, there is the potential for bubble introduction so fill to where there is no falling water. Next get rid of the floss in the last baffle. I see that you only have two baffles and only one chamber to trap bubbles just prior to the return chamber. I also see that this is a DIY sump. (Mine as well). As such it shouldn't be too much of a problem to modify this section so that you have three baffles and two chambers for a true bubble trap just prior to your return chamber. I would place three baffles in a high-low-high configuration. This just makes cleaning the sump easier and removing detritus less of a pain. Not necessary though just easier down the line, so to speak. Currently, you have a low-high baffle configuration prior to your return chamber. Once you modify the sump, do the following.
1. Turn off everything. (You have not added or removed any water to the tank or sump, you just filled the sump to the level before you made baffle modifications) 2. Fill your sump to just barely below the top of your sump. 3. Start your return pump & let the water come to finds its level in the sump. 3. Start your protein skimmer. At this point, you will not have any floss in your new two-chamber, three baffle bubble trap this time. The trick will be figuring out how high to have your baffles. This is where adjustable baffles help. Generally, if I'm doing the DIY sump route with glued baffles I find my ideal water level to keep max water in the sump and proper flow while at the same time having the proper level for the protein skimmer before installing the baffles and then mark that level. If, at this point, you do not have sufficient water in the sump to eliminate any waterfall effects over your baffles you need to start adjusting the flow of your return pump and/or plug the anti-siphon hole you have drilled in your return line within your DT. Once you have figured enough flow, max 10 X tank volume, then put your anti -siphon hole just a hair below the surface on your return line in the DT. The idea is to eliminate as much, if not most all turbulence in the sump. Once you have done this, since you do not have livestock in your tank (I'm assuming), turn off the skimmer till you have something to skim. Don't put the floss back in. That is just a bubble trap that will let bigger bubbles through. The flow has to be fine-tuned so you are not pushing bubbles to your return section of the sump. Make sure to eliminate any bubbles sticking to any surfaces and let this ride for a week or so. It can be a little tricky but this is doable. You might have too small of a sump for the return pump. If you could give specifics about the size of your tank in volume and the size and dimensions of your sump as well as the return pump and rating as well as the protein skimmer type and size that might help others with any additional ideas/info.

Skimmer is off because I'm cycling it said to turn off skimmer. It's a waterfall because we had equal sized baffles my husband cut a inch in the middle out hoping to fix I forget what he was trying to do. It's lexan. I placed the floss in to see if bubbles would stop. Display is a 75 gal
48 long
18 width
20 high.

Sump tank is a 20 gal long

Return pump is a jebao 2115 gph with water controller.

We can't take the sump tank out without emptying the entire display.

Skimmer is a seaclone 100

I think it's the return pipe. Somehow in the pipe it's creating bubbles or the return nozzles is.