The pins are critical and that is "how the pros do it".
You place thin wire in the joint. Like one wire every foot. I use 28 gauge wire. This allows a small space for the solvent to readily get drawn in via capilary action. Around 1/2" the capilary action doesnt work anymore.
The second important thing is you can pull on the wire and gauge how tight the joint is. Some of the wire will be loose, so you have to bang a little shim under the piece you are gluing to tighten it up.
There is almost always some shimming that has to be done.
Then lay the solvent into the joint. Count to 45.. or 90 if you are a total hack with power tools..and pull the pins out.
What you end up with is a tiny fillet of "liquid acrylic" which is probably 50/50 solvent and acrylic. This dries, and as the fillet dries, it prevents air from being sucked into the joint and creating bubbles.
Here is a picture of the fillet about 5 min after pulling the pins.
You place thin wire in the joint. Like one wire every foot. I use 28 gauge wire. This allows a small space for the solvent to readily get drawn in via capilary action. Around 1/2" the capilary action doesnt work anymore.
The second important thing is you can pull on the wire and gauge how tight the joint is. Some of the wire will be loose, so you have to bang a little shim under the piece you are gluing to tighten it up.
There is almost always some shimming that has to be done.
Then lay the solvent into the joint. Count to 45.. or 90 if you are a total hack with power tools..and pull the pins out.
What you end up with is a tiny fillet of "liquid acrylic" which is probably 50/50 solvent and acrylic. This dries, and as the fillet dries, it prevents air from being sucked into the joint and creating bubbles.
Here is a picture of the fillet about 5 min after pulling the pins.