More help needed

hondacbr600rr

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Despite what I thought were great QT practices, I am striking out lately.

Lost a Bimac Anthia last night, and tonight I notice my others aren’t looking good.


I’m days away from being able to move all the fish from my 150 and 310 gallon tanks into a QT system to go fallow for ich.

Now I’m worried I have Uronema, or something else taking out fish too.

Please see video of the dark spot on the green Coris wrasse, and rough “shedding” appearance on the Anthias.
 
i DONT SEE URONEMA BUT WILL GET BACK TO YOU SHORTLY
 
Despite what I thought were great QT practices, I am striking out lately.

Lost a Bimac Anthia last night, and tonight I notice my others aren’t looking good.


I’m days away from being able to move all the fish from my 150 and 310 gallon tanks into a QT system to go fallow for ich.

Now I’m worried I have Uronema, or something else taking out fish too.

Please see video of the dark spot on the green Coris wrasse, and rough “shedding” appearance on the Anthias.

The dark spot on the wrasse looks like a bruise from running into something. Uronema can also produce lesions in the muscles of fish, but I’ve only seen evidence of that after the lesion erupts through the skin of the fish.

The anthias kept going in and out of focus in the video, but from what I could see, I can’t rule out “stale ich” - long term ich infections look a lot different than people expect.
 

WHICH PART OF YOUR SETUP IS HARDEST TO REACH OR REMOVE FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE?

  • Glass behind or beside the tank

    Votes: 8 32.0%
  • Powerheads or wavemakers

    Votes: 2 8.0%
  • Sump or rear filtration chambers

    Votes: 3 12.0%
  • Skimmer or other filtration equipment

    Votes: 1 4.0%
  • Overflow or plumbing

    Votes: 7 28.0%
  • Lights or lids

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Mine is pretty easy to access!

    Votes: 3 12.0%
  • Other—tell us what I missed

    Votes: 1 4.0%
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