Most important parameters to keep stable for acropora

Lionfish hunter

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I have my first acropora frags coming soon. It seems they need stable water parameters, but what are the most important to keep stable? Are there any parameters that are okay to move a little? For example, alkalinity needs to be stable, but is it okay for calcium to swing? PH?
 

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Temperature , salinity & Alkalinity

Less swings across the board the better. I had reasonable success while ignoring the stability factor but as soon as I became diligent about keeping everything rock solid my acros took off. Growth was off the charts compared to before
 

flyfisher2

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Hello, I just read your post and based on the reading of much advice given by those with much more expertise than me, I would say all water parameters should be stable. I'm keeping acros and over the years I failed because I wasn't consistent. I'd dose when I got home, if not the next day. I'd test parameters when I remembered. You follow? Consistency is key. Alk is very important but you need a balance with your other parameters as well. I personally watch Alk, Calcium, Phosphates, Nitrates, and salinity very closely. I test Mag on occasion and even PH isn't of major concern to me because it's always either 8.0 or 8.1.
I dose two part and it's done with a doser. (no Forgetting)
Good luck with the acros.
 

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my advice is to get the most accurate salinity measurement device for your money, it really is that important and there are many devices that will give you a bad reading

2ndly get a reliable ATO setup (for salinity stability)

If you have a skimmer, gradually you'll lose salt water over time from the skimmate. After I upgraded my skimmer, my salinity became less stable since more skimmate was coming out of my system. I had a tank crash because of salinity issues, lost many SPS polyps and several frags.
 

A;exr54

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my advice is to get the most accurate salinity measurement device for your money, it really is that important and there are many devices that will give you a bad reading

2ndly get a reliable ATO setup (for salinity stability)

If you have a skimmer, gradually you'll lose salt water over time from the skimmate. After I upgraded my skimmer, my salinity became less stable since more skimmate was coming out of my system. I had a tank crash because of salinity issues, lost many SPS polyps and several frags.
I agree with this. Salinity probes are notoriously inaccurate.
One of my best purchases was a Milwaukee digital refractometer. It’s quick and easy - and most of all precise.
 
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Current plan is dosing all for reef with no water changes. Try and keep nitrates above 0 with dosing. I will be dosing nitrates by hand when they fall. Should be okay if nitrates swing from 2 to 15 right? Wouldn’t think nitrate swings would matter as long as they are in range? If they get low I will dose back up to 15 or so. Basically changing from 2 to 15 ppm instantly.
 

flyfisher2

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my advice is to get the most accurate salinity measurement device for your money, it really is that important and there are many devices that will give you a bad reading

2ndly get a reliable ATO setup (for salinity stability)

If you have a skimmer, gradually you'll lose salt water over time from the skimmate. After I upgraded my skimmer, my salinity became less stable since more skimmate was coming out of my system. I had a tank crash because of salinity issues, lost many SPS polyps and several frags.
Funny you should say that.
I just received my second Tropic Marin hydrometer( first one arrived broken)
Super delicate instrument and not something I’d recommend for daily use but is a fantastic way to check the accuracy of your hydrometer.
Mine was off one point and after I recalibrated it was spot on.
 
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my advice is to get the most accurate salinity measurement device for your money, it really is that important and there are many devices that will give you a bad reading

2ndly get a reliable ATO setup (for salinity stability)

If you have a skimmer, gradually you'll lose salt water over time from the skimmate. After I upgraded my skimmer, my salinity became less stable since more skimmate was coming out of my system. I had a tank crash because of salinity issues, lost many SPS polyps and several frags.
I use a brs refractometer and calibrate it with 35 ppt solution. What was your salinity when your tanked crashed? I have an ato and I do not do skimmers.
 

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Could not agree more than the salinity thing. If you aren't skimming though, it shouldn't be much of a problem.
Little swings will tick them off. When I switched to a large recirculating skimmer I had a heck of a time getting things dialed in.
In theory though, If you aren't skimming there should really be little to no change in salinity with any decently reliable ATO.
 

Hermie

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Funny you should say that.
I just received my second Tropic Marin hydrometer( first one arrived broken)
Super delicate instrument and not something I’d recommend for daily use but is a fantastic way to check the accuracy of your hydrometer.
Mine was off one point and after I recalibrated it was spot on.
I have one too! Finally bit the bullet after many issues with hydrometer and refractometer and it turns out the refractometer has been off this whole time. I also bought a 500ml cylinder for water tests, makes it much easier.

I use a brs refractometer and calibrate it with 35 ppt solution. What was your salinity when your tanked crashed? I have an ato and I do not do skimmers.
That's the thing, I don't know still to this day because I did not have an accurate device at the time. Suffice it to say it was either too high or too low, depending on what Issue I was having (I've had multiple salinity incidents). I'm pretty sure my tank has been previously running at 38ppt for extended time as well as under 33ppt and both can lead to issues IME. 34/35ppt is best I believe.
 

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I have one too! Finally bit the bullet after many issues with hydrometer and refractometer and it turns out the refractometer has been off this whole time. I also bought a 500ml cylinder for water tests, makes it much easier.


That's the thing, I don't know still to this day because I did not have an accurate device at the time. Suffice it to say it was either too high or too low, depending on what Issue I was having (I've had multiple salinity incidents). I'm pretty sure my tank has been previously running at 38ppt for extended time as well as under 33ppt and both can lead to issues IME. 34/35ppt is best I believe.
I thought of buying the 500 cylinder as well but in all honesty I just don't see myself using that thing more than once or twice a year. When I took it out of the package I cleared a path and locked up the dog! that thing was designed to break! LOL
 

flyfisher2

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I have one too! Finally bit the bullet after many issues with hydrometer and refractometer and it turns out the refractometer has been off this whole time. I also bought a 500ml cylinder for water tests, makes it much easier.


That's the thing, I don't know still to this day because I did not have an accurate device at the time. Suffice it to say it was either too high or too low, depending on what Issue I was having (I've had multiple salinity incidents). I'm pretty sure my tank has been previously running at 38ppt for extended time as well as under 33ppt and both can lead to issues IME. 34/35ppt is best I believe.
I've had issues with calibration fluids and faulty hydrometers and lets not even get into swing arm!
 

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So I am guessing I need an ato in my frag tank while they are in quarantine?
I use these guys on my frag tanks. Super cheap and they work well!
1639459684159.png
 

X-37B

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TM hydrometer is the one. I have 2 other and can use them as long as I know what the TM reads vs them.
My skimmer removes 300ml a day and I add it back manualy. My system is large enough that 300ml does virtualy nothing to the SG though.
Stability is king.
 

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