Multiple UV sterilizers- need some guidance

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PPBlimpy

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I recently purchased a complete setup. 260G system
Came with a aqua UV 57W sterilizer. I am downsizing my current 380G system which also has a 57W aqua UV.
I have seen people run multiple UV's on their systems

This will be a mixed reef, no SPS currently but would like to start adding some in a couple months after everything settles.
Flow numbers below are just an estimate with little head height taken into account. only about 1.5ft vertical and 3ft horizontal travel.

Currently my 57w on my 300G only runs at 500gph - 24/7

In either scenario below water will be pulling water from my Skimmer Chamber and returning to the return pump chamber.

Would it be worth it to run both UV Sterilizers on the 260G.

One at a low flow and one at a high flow 24hrs/day for the different benefits?

I know that is a lot of heat to put into the system, or do I get a pump that I can control with apex to run at the two different speeds for 12hrs each? say a 4k DC pump, run at 60%(300gph approx) and then like 90% (800gph approx) factoring for a bit of head lose.

Maybe the flows need to be a lot higher- I don't quite understand the Chart Aqua UV
I do have a 9K LPH DC pump here that I can doing the same thing with maybe. 1100gph / 2300gph

Maybe I am overthinking everything and need someone to steer me in a better direction.

Thank you
Ken
 
PP, I'm running an 80 watt on my 180 gallon system 24/7 and it does seem to heat up the water a bit, but I have a chiller to handle the difference. Mine has very low flow for pathogen control. I don't like going sump to sump so it's a dedicated system that returns water to mt DT. I'd run them both but that's just me being paranoid about an outbreak. 😀
 
I recently purchased a complete setup. 260G system
Came with a aqua UV 57W sterilizer. I am downsizing my current 380G system which also has a 57W aqua UV.
I have seen people run multiple UV's on their systems
Congrats on your new system! I have seen many people run no UV on their systems (myself included)
This will be a mixed reef, no SPS currently but would like to start adding some in a couple months after everything settles.
Flow numbers below are just an estimate with little head height taken into account. only about 1.5ft vertical and 3ft horizontal travel.
ok
Currently my 57w on my 300G only runs at 500gph - 24/7

In either scenario below water will be pulling water from my Skimmer Chamber and returning to the return pump chamber.

Would it be worth it to run both UV Sterilizers on the 260G.
One at a low flow and one at a high flow 24hrs/day for the different benefits?
No. You would be wasting energy. You would double your cost of bulb replacement - and maintenance. If you are planning this - I would Sell what you have and buying another UV - If you want to continue using it. My guess is that you will see no difference.
I know that is a lot of heat to put into the system, or do I get a pump that I can control with apex to run at the two different speeds for 12hrs each? say a 4k DC pump, run at 60%(300gph approx) and then like 90% (800gph approx) factoring for a bit of head lose.
Most reefers do not run UV at all - so - we have that. I think you can get a pump compatible with apex that will run at different controllable speeds - but there is no reason to do so - you're trying to complicate a simple issue. (Sorry - not meaning to seem overly critical). There is no need for a UV (including in an ICH management tank - if thats your goal - thats a different question). - its a maintenance hassle, and bulb replacement is expensive
Maybe the flows need to be a lot higher- I don't quite understand the Chart Aqua UV
I do have a 9K LPH DC pump here that I can doing the same thing with maybe. 1100gph / 2300gph
The GPH are totally at 0 head - so it's hard to know whether it would work.
Maybe I am overthinking everything and need someone to steer me in a better direction.
You may be - I'm sure you're going to get multiple opinions. Best wishes with your tank
Thank you
Ken
 
If you were only running one on your larger system, I don't think you'd need to run two on the smaller system. As far as differing flows, the slower flow will do what the higher flow will do... help with algae and water clarity. The lower flow is more for parasite control.
 
PP, I'm running an 80 watt on my 180 gallon system 24/7 and it does seem to heat up the water a bit, but I have a chiller to handle the difference. Mine has very low flow for pathogen control. I don't like going sump to sump so it's a dedicated system that returns water to mt DT. I'd run them both but that's just me being paranoid about an outbreak. 😀
I will just warn you - the slower rate may kill more pathogens - however, It does not mean your fish are at a less likelyhood of getting a disease since while your water is slowly flowing - the pathogens may be multiplying faster - this is especially true in a very high fish/bioload tank. Not criticizing just - people should be aware
 
If you were only running one on your larger system, I don't think you'd need to run two on the smaller system. As far as differing flows, the slower flow will do what the higher flow will do... help with algae and water clarity. The lower flow is more for parasite control.
I don't want to go away from the thread - but - what evidence do you have that UV helps algae/water clarity? And - in any case - the UV would not affect water clarity - any more than parasites at different flow rates...?
 
If you were only running one on your larger system, I don't think you'd need to run two on the smaller system. As far as differing flows, the slower flow will do what the higher flow will do... help with algae and water clarity. The lower flow is more for parasite control.
i didnt think of it that way. low flow would do it all, not just target the one.

appreciate you pointing that out.
 
I will just warn you - the slower rate may kill more pathogens - however, It does not mean your fish are at a less likelyhood of getting a disease since while your water is slowly flowing - the pathogens may be multiplying faster - this is especially true in a very high fish/bioload tank. Not criticizing just - people should be aware
I have a fish tank and when it got spots I got a 40 w UV and it appeared to be very useful at reducing skin problems in fish, and they didn't even swim through the sterilizer once!

I think they are useful, but on a reef I think I would not run one (or two) all the time. I recommend having it plumbed in and ready, but bipassed, dry, off saving the light and electricity in case it is needed.

BUt the "dwell time" or kill rate, or magic flow speed is critical for these things to work. Nothing worse than a dead fish covered in evenly tanned ich bugs. 🙃
 
Congrats on your new system! I have seen many people run no UV on their systems (myself included)

ok

No. You would be wasting energy. You would double your cost of bulb replacement - and maintenance. If you are planning this - I would Sell what you have and buying another UV - If you want to continue using it. My guess is that you will see no difference.

Most reefers do not run UV at all - so - we have that. I think you can get a pump compatible with apex that will run at different controllable speeds - but there is no reason to do so - you're trying to complicate a simple issue. (Sorry - not meaning to seem overly critical). There is no need for a UV (including in an ICH management tank - if thats your goal - thats a different question). - its a maintenance hassle, and bulb replacement is expensive

The GPH are totally at 0 head - so it's hard to know whether it would work.

You may be - I'm sure you're going to get multiple opinions. Best wishes with your tank

thank you, its bitter sweet, love my 300G for the shear footprint. but i feel this move will be better.

For years I ran with no UV. I got a deal on my first 57W and gave it a try. Results were positive enough i kept it on.

I do have ich in my system. Whenever I would ad a new fish or change the rock work my powder brown tang would flare up with ich. After adding the UV I did not see it again till I had to move the tank, transfer him to another tank type of stress. That is my only experience with me seeing a difference, could be a coincidence also. Water clarity did seem to improve also.

I do feel like i am trying to complicate things at times.

Appreciate the insight!!!
 
I have a fish tank and when it got spots I got a 40 w UV and it appeared to be very useful at reducing skin problems in fish, and they didn't even swim through the sterilizer once!

I think they are useful, but on a reef I think I would not run one (or two) all the time. I recommend having it plumbed in and ready, but bipassed, dry, off saving the light and electricity in case it is needed.

BUt the "dwell time" or kill rate, or magic flow speed is critical for these things to work. Nothing worse than a dead fish covered in evenly tanned ich bugs. 🙃

this is another idea, run it when its needed or even for a couple hours a day, easy enough to just turn the UV light on and off.

Probably stepping away from running both on the tank. Wife wants me to set up a 110 for her in a couple months so maybe i will save the second one for that tank.

Appreciate everyones opinions and insight and talking me off that ledge. plumbing both would have been a pain!
 
Do you have a pic of the tank you are going to be parting with? (the 300)
 
Do you have a pic of the tank you are going to be parting with? (the 300)
tank is already sold actually. it was intended to be a mancave type build with a cat shark and cortez ray.

was going to go in our spare room, plans changed and we had to decided to keep either my 125 mixed reef or the 300 and put it in our main living room. kept the 300 and transferred everything from the 125 into it.

from a visual stand point it looks like crap, 2x6 wood stand that isnt finished, large sump, wires everywhere etc. and its acrylic and remembering why I got away from acrylic years ago.

but here is a picture of the 300g and the tank going in its place

IMG_4305.jpeg att.Rfs6-2xLErX9Mja9xACmo0sccGJJ708JMlFwbkwAbcI.jpeg
 
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