My 180 SPS Kingdom

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Thanks nycluis718
and
Thanks DidAc, I have been taking my time trying get all the wrongs right in this build that i have had to deal in the 2 systems i currently have.
 
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I had to order (3) abs bulkheads yesterday 1 and 1/2" slip/slip from brs. I should get them this week. They will be installed on the sump lid, for the overflow. This should complete the parts list for plumbing
 
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I got the bulkheads over the weekend and was able to get them fitted on the sump.
20170703_195736.jpg
I also was able to put an acrylic patch to seal the leak i had in one corner. I actually cut a quater inch by quater by 2 inch piece and sealed the corner with it and the weldon solution. Wet test the next day was a success.
20170701_100418.jpg

I also filled the pump section of the sump to check for leaks. This is also the section that will have the ato sensors. So i wanted to make sure there was not any transfer of water between sections . It also looked good.
20170701_095954.jpg

Now that the sump was complete i could start to put some time into plumbing.
I installed the 1in bulkeads in the DT for the returns outside is slip inside is threaded. I have (2) threaded/slip couplers and (2) street 45s for inside the DT for directional flow.
20170703_195848.jpg
Im thinking of painting these fittings black with krylon fusion. But not sure how it would holdup inside the tank.
Anybody have any experience painting pvc that is submerged?
I also noticed i needed to do some rework on the stand. When i placed the sump in the stand i realized my plumbing layout was a little cramp so i moved 2 of the braces the top and bottom brace over 6 inches. Installed 2 verticle supports that can double as a backer for a petition to separate the chiller from the rest of the sump and equipment. Also Added the floor for the sump section that will be sealed incase there is ever a leak/flood.
20170703_195649.jpg
You will have to forgive me for the pictures. I kinda took them on the fly. Ill get some better shots this week as im working on both the plumbing and stand.
Im off work for the week and plan on getting alot done.
 
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In between activities today i was able to install the back wall on the stand. Which needed to be complete to drill the entries for the drain lines into the stand.
20170704_182513.jpg

After i drilled the access holes for the drains. I started working on plumbing. I completed the full siphon primary drain from the over flow and started the the emergency drain. The 3rd drain on the left will be the secondary drain.
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Hopeful i can get the rest of the drains done tomorrow.
Happy 4th!
 
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Thanks for tagging glweek.

Thanks Reef Dog.

Hope to get some work done today. First i have some maintenance to do on my existing systems. Blow rocks, suck out detritus and then change water.
 

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Does anyone know if you can use a nail gun with 2 inch nails when skinning a stand instead of using the screws?
 
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Does anyone know if you can use a nail gun with 2 inch nails when skinning a stand instead of using the screws?
Not sure if you meant to post here or not. You would probably get more response in the dyi forum.
With that said imo you could use whatever you feel i sufficent to secure skin on your stand. Something to consider is if you use a thinner plwood you would want to dial back the air pressure so you dont blow the nails through the material. Also how thick is the wood recieving the nails?
I used ss 1inch flat 8s so i could counter sink the heads flush. Also put down a zigzag bead of liquidnail prior to setting each panel. Rear panel in my stand is just a miosture blocker to save the wall from the wet area in my stand. The rest of the stand will be open back. My primary skin will be 1/2 birch covered with pine vnotch 1/4"×3.5" panels. The plywood will be screwed and set it liquid nail. The panels brad nailed and set in liquid nail. All trim nailed with 1"1/2 ss finshing gun. Hope this helps
 
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This week I was able get all the drains complete.
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A couple things to consider when your running pvc from a fixed loction to another fixed loction is making sure your measurements are accurate and your fitups are tight. You can line up the fittings and match mark them prior to installing. Also a good idea is to route the ends of the pipes with a chamfer bit. So the slide in the fittings easier. Heres a picture of a cut pipe and a routed pipe.
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Another thing to keep in mind is to purchase more fittings then tou plan to use . Sometimes things do go as planned and you have to change on the fly. Also sometimes the fittings dont recieve all of the expected weather you dont hit the match marks or the pipe sticks going togther. Here are couple of my casualties. Ill post them below
 
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20170705_152848.jpg
These are a couple that didnt go togther all the way. Glad i had extas.
So with all the drains complete i turned my attention to the supply from the pump to the DT. As i was laying them out i realized i should probably have the pump, which i dont to start the plumbing.
Pump is currently on order, i went with the simplicity aquatics 2100 dc pump it should be here next week. I also ordered an audio rack 8 switch panel to keep all the wires in check. When i get there.
With the plumbing done as far as i could i decided to start working on the stand. I installed the left and right side floors left side will house chiller and will be seperated by a wall from the rest of the cabinet
20170706_173233.jpg

Right side will house the dosers, controllers, switches, etc.
20170706_173239.jpg
The center section is lower and the sump will sit in there just incase of spills. Kind of a sump for the sump. I was going to try drawing these floor pieces out by measurement prior to cutting but decided against because i wanted to make sure i had a nice tight fit. So i used some scrapes cut into strips to make templetes. All the pieces are glued togther in place with a hot glue gun. Here they are all glued together prior to tracing on plywood. Its really the only way to get an accurate fit when you have alot of angles.
20170706_171319.jpg

Hopeful that this weekend will be successful as well. Here is where it all sits as of now.
20170706_173305.jpg

Waiting on ideas for the skin. My wife wants it to match our new furniture which we dont have yet so will see what that looks like and come up with a plan.
 
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I got the stand wrapped with 1/2" birch and all the door openings routed. I also started on trimming out the stand. But didnt get very far without being interrupted. Heres where it sits
20170712_213239.jpg
The plan moving foward is a dark charcoal finish with a distressed look. This is to match new furniture.
New furniture that looks old. Lol
Its going to feel weird when im done with the cabinet pushing it out in the driveway and beating it with a chain. Before i stain it.
All finished visible wood will be pine with the exception of gaps between the doors and trim which will be an inch and a quarter wide at the widest. Sides will be solid panels and the front will have louvered doors on the ends. Im thinking the louvered doors should keep the humidity down insde the cabinet. There will also be (2) 3.5inch planked and trimmed solid doors in the middle. I might have all the wood working complete this week.
On another note i got some new toys today.
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New pump and swiches.
Now Ill be able to complete the return plumbing.
The switches will help with wire management and better control of all the mechanicsl stuff skimmer, pump, powerheads, ato, etc, etc...
 
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I got some work done on the stand this weekend. I finished all the trim work and cut all the trim pieces for the the doors.
20170716_172606.jpg
I should be able to get the doors done this week.
Ill also work on the return plumbing now that i have the pump.
 
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Looking for ideas, for a material to put insde the bottom of the tank for protection. I know alot of people use starboard (kinda expensive). I thought I'd look into pvc board. Has anyone had any experience with it? Or any other ideas for an intank bottom protection.
 

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Pvc board is ok, just keep in mind that it's really soft, so it will get dings, dents, scratches, and such easily and often.
 
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Pvc board is ok, just keep in mind that it's really soft, so it will get dings, dents, scratches, and such easily and often.
Maybe im thinking of a different material. I thought it was kind of like hdpe. Im just looking for a cheaper alternative to starboard.
 

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Maybe im thinking of a different material. I thought it was kind of like hdpe. Im just looking for a cheaper alternative to starboard.
You are thinking of the right stuff, I was just warning you of pitfalls. I have it as the top of my stand and sump for my 180ish gallon, just supported well. I used it to eliminate long term breakdown and rot in the drips and humidity.
IMG_20170603_200220.jpg
IMG_20170531_172028.jpg
 

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I have pvc board for my new 180 build b onna move the 90 over to it this weekend, my bud took my leftovers for his 150, it works good for cheaper alt to starboard
 

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