My 9 months old SPS tank

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Yanir34

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That should keep you safe from 0 NO3 & PO4
I Do not do any water changes and have many fish, so NO3 & PO4 are never 0
Then you should consider decreas your carbon dosing and feed your fish much more
 
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Here is sps frag that I got nearly 90% bleached , and after 5 months it recovered nicely
Screenshot_20230626-174849_Instagram.jpg

Screenshot_20230626-174852_Instagram.jpg
 

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Then you should consider decreas your carbon dosing and feed your fish much more
IME, that's not how it works for me. I feed a lot, including half a fresh mussel daily, for my CBB. I use Elimi-NP and all other export methods (Chaeto, GFO, TM Reef-Actif, Carbon polymer reactor, and a Skimmer). The carbon dosing is to allow increased phosphate consumption by corals. I am only 2.5 years in the Hobby and have mostly LPS. I just started playing with a few sps corals, and surprisingly they are doing very well (My NO3 and PO4 are stable around 15 and 0.1-0.2 ppm, respectively)
 
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what are your par numbers now that you made the adjustments?
I didn't install yet the new ATI fixture (it stuck at customs department...).
right with ATI 8×54w I'm getting around 200-250 on floor , 350 to 400 at middle, and 600 to 700 at water surface.
I Believe that with new fixture it will be 100 to 200 more PAR at the middle of the tank
 
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Hello guys , so I finally got my ATI power module 10×54w .....it's looks like PAR monster !
everything is German made , it's heavy it looks like built to last for a least 10 to 15 years!
one thing that I didn't understand is the connection....maybe do you know what I suppose to do here ?
in Israel the electronic current is 220v to 240v 50Hz
20230710_195646.jpg
20230710_195651.jpg
20230710_195658.jpg
20230710_200657.jpg
 
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Update : the 10×54w installed !
and WOOOW , that beast producing TON of lightning.
This fixture is heavy and build in German quality.
Also , the fans is powerful .
I will replace some T5 bulbs to another type (aquablue special instead of purple plus) to grm more natural look.

20230711_135654.jpg
20230711_135650.jpg
20230711_135639.jpg
 
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That is a beautiful fixture! Can’t wait to see some updated tank shots.

Thank you !
I did PAR test today, that fixture is like small sun..300 on floor , 700 in top of the rocks.
The bulbs was installed from the previous fixture , they are 10 months old.
I took this shot today ...
20230711_175509.jpg
20230711_175509.jpg
 

cmaxwell39

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Hello guys , so I finally got my ATI power module 10×54w .....it's looks like PAR monster !
everything is German made , it's heavy it looks like built to last for a least 10 to 15 years!
one thing that I didn't understand is the connection....maybe do you know what I suppose to do here ?
in Israel the electronic current is 220v to 240v 50Hz
20230710_195646.jpg
20230710_195651.jpg
20230710_195658.jpg
20230710_200657.jpg

The dial you showed on the power module adapter is for the fans in the fixture. They are 12V DC fans and depending on the voltage you choose to run them at they will run faster or slower so that you can dial in your desired amount of cooling from them. I believe most of the time it is recommended to run them at 7.5-9V.

Love the tank by the way. You are doing an excellent job with it.
 

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Those 10-bulb Fixtures are beasts. I needed a chiller with my 8 bulb.
 

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Update : the 10×54w installed !
and WOOOW , that beast producing TON of lightning.
This fixture is heavy and build in German quality.
Also , the fans is powerful .
I will replace some T5 bulbs to another type (aquablue special instead of purple plus) to grm more natural look.

20230711_135654.jpg
20230711_135650.jpg
20230711_135639.jpg
Are you using toggle bolts ?
 

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