My first attempt raising clownfish

[laughing tang]

I'm glad to hear things turned out ok. You should be able to notice platinums pretty early on. The white color comes in quick and after meta they kinda look like a faded translucent white. Sort of like how the white on the fry look when that first strip is just showing up, only it's the entire body. The picture posted looks like the start of a Picasso type pattern. I'll check if I have any pictures. That first strip is always the quickest to develop and the additional markings take a bit more time as you're seeing, with the exception of a platinum or white which develop early too.

I'd love to see your pictures if you have time to dig through your archives. I had wondered it it might be a picasso type thing, because the male is Platinum and my understanding is they were bred from picassos. It is frustrating there is not more open information available about how all the designer strains were created. Genetics is so important, and the more I search online the more I realize that information seems to be sorely lacking.

The second hatch was a complete bust, all 8 fry are gone. I found some in the siphon, but I have not seen larvae since yesterday afternoon. I noticed last night we had a spike in nitrite, about 0.1-0.2. I think the mistake I made is I put in Xport Bioblocks (and quite a few 1.5"). We used Xport NO3 cubes in the successful tank. I was not aware of the difference. It could be other things too - I realized immediately that I was already strained with full-time care on one tank, and adding on a second double my testing time, and thus I was not as on top of it. The drip failed 2 days in a row. I never saw a spike in ammonia but was not testing as rigorously. So some painful lessons there.

Question - in the morning now I find the fry in the right bottom of the tank, all huddled together. They do spread out to eat. I find it disconcerting. Is this normal? They are in the full bright area of the tank, and there are shaded areas available, some with more flow, some with less. From what I've observed so far neither flow nor light intensity seems to change it. Do they need some kind of anemone replacement to feel secure in? My confidence is shaken and I'd hate to lose them. DPH 20-21 on those guys. Also questions about growout. They are in 10 gallons and I can find little information about what a good growout setup is or how to transport them there. Your insights are much appreciated, and your time.

 

[laughing tang]

I got some cool news today. We weren't quite sure what Mr. Whitey was - Percula was the consensus given his clearly percula eyes, then Platinum was the logical choice. Given the geometric patterns that are developing on the fry, I started to wonder what he really is and reached out to the FLS where we purchased him. Turns out she only purchases from Sea and Reef (which does not carry Platinum), and she does not take locally bred fish. This left only one possibility: Maine Blizzard. Could it be true? I reached out to Sea & Reef with pictures and video, and they confirmed that yes indeed, Mr. Whitey is a Maine Blizzard. It was great news to have that confirmed. The Maine Blizzard was bred from the Premium Picasso, and I think there are definitely some signs of that. There's some interesting geometrical markings, dots, and so on. It will be interesting to see how they develop, and I'd welcome input. (Video 24 DPH) How are the Bali's coming along?

 

[F i s h y]

Here are my babies 13 days post hatch. Fully transitioned to tdo a and b1. Starting b2 tomorrow.

 

[laughing tang]

Here are my babies 13 days post hatch. Fully transitioned to tdo a and b1. Starting b2 tomorrow.

They look great!!

 

[ReeferMadness09]

I got some cool news today. We weren't quite sure what Mr. Whitey was - Percula was the consensus given his clearly percula eyes, then Platinum was the logical choice. Given the geometric patterns that are developing on the fry, I started to wonder what he really is and reached out to the FLS where we purchased him. Turns out she only purchases from Sea and Reef (which does not carry Platinum), and she does not take locally bred fish. This left only one possibility: Maine Blizzard. Could it be true? I reached out to Sea & Reef with pictures and video, and they confirmed that yes indeed, Mr. Whitey is a Maine Blizzard. It was great news to have that confirmed. The Maine Blizzard was bred from the Premium Picasso, and I think there are definitely some signs of that. There's some interesting geometrical markings, dots, and so on. It will be interesting to see how they develop, and I'd welcome input. (Video 24 DPH) How are the Bali's coming along?

That's a pretty interesting update on the genetics. They look nice and healthy. Still no luck with the Bali fry. The few I have seem like their growth is stunted. Tried to hatch another clutch 2ish weeks ago but lost them all around day 2-3. I'm going to hatch more this Saturday and hope for better results. I think it might be a combo of issues and I've been keeping notes each go to tweek things from hatch to hatch. Leaning towards ammonia issues.

 

[laughing tang]

That's a pretty interesting update on the genetics. They look nice and healthy. Still no luck with the Bali fry. The few I have seem like their growth is stunted. Tried to hatch another clutch 2ish weeks ago but lost them all around day 2-3. I'm going to hatch more this Saturday and hope for better results. I think it might be a combo of issues and I've been keeping notes each go to tweek things from hatch to hatch. Leaning towards ammonia issues.

Ugh that just sucks on the Bali! I hope it gets better. I have to say I test ammonia 4x daily, nitrite 3 times daily and nitrate once midday. I feel like I'm on the testing merrigoround. I have a seneye arriving today, I hope that brings some relief. Because I keep salinity around 1.019 I have to constantly test dKH and dose PH buffer to keep alkalinity in the 7-8 range. I lost 2 when my alkalinity got below 7 when one day I messed up on dosing. I dose Erase CL at 1 ml for each 0.10 test result I get on the Hanna ammonia tester (so 0.01 - 0.10 1 ml, 0.10 to 0.20 2 ml and so on). I add about 0.5 ml of Erase CL to each 1/2 gallon drip. I struggle with water cloudiness despite running a baby nano skimmer and the Hygger dual sponge filter (with xport NO3 cubes and activated charcoal in the cups), and siphoning food out immediately after feeding. It so far does not affect them, but I do wish for clearer water. I'm DPH 26, wondering if I can start my Top Fin HOB 10 gallon (with prefilter sponge) ... I hate to make changes when they are doing well otherwise.

 

[F i s h y]

Stripes...
And a pic of mommy and daddy...
Mommy.

Daddy.

Stripes.

 

[F i s h y]

@laughing tang @ReeferMadness09
I am noticing a lot of fighting between the fry in my tank. They are currently in a 5 gallon tank with 4 gallons of water and my estimates are around 50 to 60 fry. When is to soon to move them to a larger tank? I have a 20 Long set up and ready to go for them. My main concern is that they will not be able to find enough food in a larger tank. We are at 20 days post hatch as of today. Things have gone well, I want to keep them going in that direction.

 

[ReeferMadness09]

I'd probably go to a 10g and then move to the 20g. They might be a little small for the 20g currently. Or maybe add a divider to the 20 if you don't want to set up another tank

 

[laughing tang]

I'd probably go to a 10g and then move to the 20g. They might be a little small for the 20g currently. Or maybe add a divider to the 20 if you don't want to set up another tank

I put mine as larvae in a 10 gallon with 5 gallons of water. One they got off rotifers I started adding water daily to get up to 9 gallons. I have around 40-50 I think. They've broken into 2 groups on opposite sides of the tank. They balls a bit and chase some but no one is singled out. In recent days (33 DPH) 2 have broken off, inhabiting a space in the bottom back under the filter and surprisingly act like a bonded pair. One of them is very outgoing and cruises the whole tank on his on at food time. The others always stay in their areas, fanning out a bit at food time and balling close together when it's done.

 

[laughing tang]

Note, I feed 5 times a day, every 5 hours. I put the food in food ring right over the two groups. Only a few eat at the water; the rest are at the bottom and catch food as it flows down. Fish can smell food and should go to find it. I feel that at food time they fan out a bit from the corner to catch the food. Once they are satiated they go back to their corners and I stop feeding. I put a little bit in and wait for them to eat, then add a bit more until they loose interest. Then I siphon all the excess food out and dose erase CL to combat ammonia.

 

[laughing tang]

Another note... Yes it would move them to a 10 gallon. I would siphon 2 gallons of the current tank into a 10 gallon and then catch the fry carefully with cups and transfer them. Then siphon the rest of the old tank water into the new tank. I pour the water into a cup filled with tank water in het tank and let the cup spill over to not create a lot of flow. I would not net the fry. Then I'd drip in 1/2 gallon very slowly (few drop a second) twice a day to up the volume. I'd keep everything the same otherwise to not disturb the routine. I'd do it very slowly without scaring them too much. They are really still quite fragile I find.

 

[laughing tang]

@ReeferMadness09 I have a question for you. My fry are 33 DPH and so far I've left the light on 24/7 and feeding 5 times a day (including one 2 am feeding). I would like to start reducing light at night. At what point is it safe to do that and how does one go about it? And would I still then feed at night or are they old enough to go without food from say 9pm to 7am? Thanks.

 

[F i s h y]

Mine have been on a normal cycle since day 1. I didn't use a light for the first 5 days only ambient light. I am using a highly adjustable desk light. I started it out very low and now it gets turned on in the morning same schedule as my reef tank and off at night. I have had 0 losses due to sudden shock or whatever it's called.
My babies also don't mind my hand in the tank for cleaning or anything else I need to do. I am at 20 dph today and haven't lost one since day 3...

 

[F i s h y]

Today's video right after feeding

 

[laughing tang]

Good for you. Larvae have very poor vision and need light to be able to hunt. Many people, including breeders, leave the light on 24/7 the first 30 days as I have. It's simply easier. My question remains for me how to now safely transition to a 16-12 photoperiod, and, I presume eliminate night time feeding. I haven't seen it documented anywhere. Last time I turned the brightness down slowly but up suddenly I lost one, so I don't want to make that mistake again.

 

[ReeferMadness09]

On my current clutch, I switched them to a regular 8 hour light period when they were about 2 months old but I feel like I could have started earlier. I didn't do any type of gradual transition and had no negative effects. The fish were and still are a little freaked out when the light goes off. They all go diving for their normals sleeping spots immediately but seem just fine. No losses experienced.