My Fishless Cycling Seems Stuck

[KiwiniD]

I have had a successful 20 gallon saltwater tank for many years. I am starting a 30 gallon saltwater tank with fishless cycling. My chemistry has been stuck for several days and I don't know what to do.

I am on Day 26 of cycling. I started with Dr. Tim's Ammonia Chloride and my Ammonia level was at 4 by Day 3. It has been at zero since Day 12. I used Stability to introduce bacteria. My Nitrites rose to at least 5 (it may have been higher, but that is the top of the API scale) by Day 9. It was still at 5 when I began measuring Nitrates on Day 13. They have been rising and falling between 5 and 20 (Day 22) and have been at 10 for two days now. There was a spike in measured Nitrites of 160 on Day 16. I don't understand that at all since it was a one-off.

For the last 4 days, I have been at 0 Ammonia, 2 Nitrites, and 10 Nitrates as best I can read the API charts. I keep waiting for the Nitrites to drop further and/or the Nitrates to rise, but neither is happening. I have read numerous forums and websites online and get this advice: 1. Be patient, do nothing; 2. Do a partial water change; 3. Don't do a partial water change; 4. Add Ammonia to continue to feed the Ammonia-eating bacteria 5. Don't add Ammonia.

Anybody?

Thanks

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Sounds like you're cycled. If you want to be extra sure, add ammonia to 2ppm and then test 24 hours later -if ammonia is gone (aka the color is less green than the 0.25 reading on the API chart), then your system is ready to handle a small bioload.
(But I think you're good to go now )

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Don't worry about nitrITEs in saltwater. The ONLY reason to measure them is if you are measuring insanely high nitrATEs and need to know if they are really that high... NitrITE interferes with nitrATE testing and gives a higher nitrate reading.

 

[FlyinAg]

Those test kits are not lab grade. You added bacteria and it converted ammonia to nitrite and nitrate. Sounds cycled to me and ready for the next step. Have you added anything that produces ammonia for the bacteria to eat?

 

[KiwiniD]

Those test kits are not lab grade. You added bacteria and it converted ammonia to nitrite and nitrate. Sounds cycled to me and ready for the next step. Have you added anything that produces ammonia for the bacteria to eat?

No. I have not.

 

[KiwiniD]

Sounds like you're cycled. If you want to be extra sure, add ammonia to 2ppm and then test 24 hours later -if ammonia is gone (aka the color is less green than the 0.25 reading on the API chart), then your system is ready to handle a small bioload.
(But I think you're good to go now )

Thanks. I will try that.

 

[KiwiniD]

Those test kits are not lab grade. You added bacteria and it converted ammonia to nitrite and nitrate. Sounds cycled to me and ready for the next step. Have you added anything that produces ammonia for the bacteria to eat?

Thanks

 

[KiwiniD]

Don't worry about nitrITEs in saltwater. The ONLY reason to measure them is if you are measuring insanely high nitrATEs and need to know if they are really that high... NitrITE interferes with nitrATE testing and gives a higher nitrate reading.

Thanks

 

[KiwiniD]

Thanks. I will try that.

I added 100 drops (1 tsp) of Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride to bring the Ammonia level to 2 ppm. I waited 24 hours. My readings are Ammonia 2 ppm, Nitrite 5 ppm, and Nitrate 10 ppm. That tells me I am not cycled. Correct?

BTW, for what it's worth, I placed the sponge from my 20 gallon tank filter into the filter on the new 30 gallon tank on Day 24 for two days. I understand that can help to speed up the process.

Ideas?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I added 100 drops (1 tsp) of Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride to bring the Ammonia level to 2 ppm. I waited 24 hours. My readings are Ammonia 2 ppm, Nitrite 5 ppm, and Nitrate 10 ppm. That tells me I am not cycled. Correct?

BTW, for what it's worth, I placed the sponge from my 20 gallon tank filter into the filter on the new 30 gallon tank on Day 24 for two days. I understand that can help to speed up the process.

Ideas?

If the 2 ppm ammonia value is even remotely accurate, then correct, it is not cycled.

 

[brandon429]

'I am on Day 26 of cycling. I started with Dr. Tim's Ammonia Chloride and my Ammonia level was at 4 by Day 3. It has been at zero since Day 12.'


this tank is cycled. this is old cycling science vs new cycling science event #145, 220. there's no way its not cycled.

lets say he dosed an inordinate degree of ammonia, after day 12, even though that wasn't required and the test reads above zero

just do a water change, not because there's really that much ammonia, but that's what it takes to tame that kit being used for all the interferences that make it state done cycles are stalled. there must be two million searchable posts on cheap ammonia kits causing the belief that a cycle is stuck, they never are.

was the ammonia zero, on day 12 as stated or was it not

 

[brandon429]

post a tank pic

= looking for visual proof cues unstated in the pic. such as: any growths that have shown up and weren't originally added. there's an order of deposition for visual creatures we can use to infer the presence of cycling bacteria, in addition to the fact no cycling chart ever made has a 26 day ammonia drop line. it has a 10-12 day one, which aligns with an interesting unsolicited data point in the opening descrip.

going solely, solely off a cheap ammonia kit this may not seem cycled.

but going off all other counter verifiers, it sure is. pics

 

[taricha]

I used Stability to introduce bacteria.

Seachem stability may be an ineffective bacteria for a fishless cycle....

And here's the data for Group 1:
Boiled "sterilized", Nothing, Tank water, Biospira, Seachem Stability, and Nature's Ocean Bio-Active Live sand.



Total Ammonia and Nitrite

As for the non-responders: the negative controls of "sterile", "nothing", and tank water made no measurable changes to ammonia over the 20 day time frame. And Seachem Stability was indistinguishable from those. This is consistent with the presumption that this product contained only heterotroph nitrifiers, and would do nothing when presented with ammonia only.

 

[Miami Reef]

Seachem stability may be an ineffective bacteria for a fishless cycle....

Bookmarked. Thanks for this!

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Seachem stability may be an ineffective bacteria for a fishless cycle....

Interesting...

Although I always use Fritz Turbo Start to cycle, my instinct if I were in a pinch would be to grab some Stability from Petco... I'll cross that off the list!

 

[Miami Reef]

Interesting...

Although I always use Fritzyme to cycle, my instinct if I were in a pinch would be to grab some Stability from Petco... I'll cross that off the list!

I’ve definitely used stability in the past thinking it would help with ammonia. Whoops.

 

[taricha]

I’ve definitely used stability in the past thinking it would help with ammonia. Whoops.

To be fair, it might have a better chance if it's digesting fish food probably - I haven't done that part of the test yet. But if you're just giving it ammonia drops, there are much more reliable choices.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

To be fair, it might have a better chance if it's digesting fish food probably - I haven't done that part of the test yet. But if you're just giving it ammonia drops, there are much more reliable choices.

Ah, I see. I have never used ammonia drops. Just fish food

 

[KiwiniD]

If the 2 ppm ammonia value is even remotely accurate, then correct, it is not cycled.

At least according to the API test it is. The Ammonia test went from absolutely clear before I added the Dr. Tim's to a good, bright green matching the 2 ppm color on the chart.

 

[KiwiniD]

'I am on Day 26 of cycling. I started with Dr. Tim's Ammonia Chloride and my Ammonia level was at 4 by Day 3. It has been at zero since Day 12.'


this tank is cycled. this is old cycling science vs new cycling science event #145, 220. there's no way its not cycled.

lets say he dosed an inordinate degree of ammonia, after day 12, even though that wasn't required and the test reads above zero

just do a water change, not because there's really that much ammonia, but that's what it takes to tame that kit being used for all the interferences that make it state done cycles are stalled. there must be two million searchable posts on cheap ammonia kits causing the belief that a cycle is stuck, they never are.

was the ammonia zero, on day 12 as stated or was it not

I'm not sure I understand all this. What is the "new science?" I have followed everything I can find from a variety of sources online and, also, a visit to my local fish store. They are all consistent. If there is something else I should be doing, please tell me.

Also, what is a better quality test kit than the API that I am using?