Curious, do you see any patterns in your temperature reading?
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No...its steady as it goes...keep in mind im using 2 aqueon pros. I have them doing the control, reef pi is set as a failsafe to shut them off if temps go above 79FCurious, do you see any patterns in your temperature reading?
I use aqueon pro heaters as well. And I use 2 of them also. I have the same experience as you with them. I’ve been using them for years. Well not this set at least but you get what I’m saying. Your temp graph looks totally different from mineNo...its steady as it goes...keep in mind im using 2 aqueon pros. I have them doing the control, reef pi is set as a failsafe to shut them off if temps go above 79F
Are you using the aqueon thermostat to control the heater, or reef pi?
Are you using the aqueon thermostat to control the heater, or reef pi?
Im using the heaters own thermostat, and reef pi to monitor and as a failsafe shutoff in case a heater sticks on
That looks great.
I really like the meamwell Power supplies they are rock solid.
this is an epic build its like my first two builds (AC socketc, ac dc converters are all part of the controller), but way, way better . That husky enclosure is paying off. Meanwell PSU and the dfrobot power mosfet circuit are also great additionAdded some things to my build, got rid of the wall warts and put in 2 Meanwell rs-15-5 power supplies, what a difference reading voltages when all relays are pulled in and when they click on and off...at 7 bucks they are a steal and make my build cleaner. The wallwarts were samsung rated at 2 amps, but when relays pulled in and out voltage wavered a bit. The meanwell are 3 amps apiece. One will run the rasp pi, and hat and the uln which is powered seperately on Mike Lanes board. The other will handle my 2 relay boards which can be isolated from the pi.(pull the jd-vcc jumper and add power there which isolates it from the pi completely.
Added another relay board.
Added my 4 dfrobot gravity mosfet modules which can be run on pwm from the hat and switch the high(positive) side of my led lights. The lights are common cathode so I had to find a p channel mosfet board. I have 2 lights. Each light has a blue channel and a white/red/green channel. So 4 channels of pwm control as soon as i determine how im hacking into them. They have a 4 pin connector for the timer which seems propietary but if i could find matching connectors...boom, run a cable for each light into my cabinet and land on the modules...done!
Waiting now for a ph board from the other Troutt, lol!
Pwm up next, just trying to find a clean way to wire into my lights. The timer connector is 4 pin=15V+, GND, blue channel, white/red/green channel. The timer just tuns on the two channels. All i need is right there if I can find a matching connector I dont have to touch my light. I can run a 4 wire to my reef pi mosfet module, 15V+ to Vin, Gnd to Gnd, and controlled channel to Vout on the module. The mosfet modules use Pwm pin from pca9685 on the hat, and Gnd to run an opto that switches the pChannel fet. Specs say its good to 1khz pwm. If anyone needs a pchannel to switch high side, the p channel mosfet on these modules has a very low rdson of .0075 ohms, meaning no heatsink unless you take more than 10 amps thru the fet.this is an epic build its like my first two builds (AC socketc, ac dc converters are all part of the controller), but way, way better . That husky enclosure is paying off. Meanwell PSU and the dfrobot power mosfet circuit are also great addition
Yes, the plants soak up the nitrates, i cut them and throw the trimmings away, the plants grow right back removing more.nitrates. Like a cheato filter on steroids. I have other things that help this along, malaysian trumpet snails churn the sand so the plants can root easier...and from going wildly anaerobic. This breaks waste particles up for plant use as well. A good planted tank has alot going on for balance, similar to a reef tank.These plants help with anything, like nutrient export? in reef tanks mangroves are pretty popular. We use algae based filtration, which does similar thing
wootReceived my other set of good temp probes yesterday, now I have 4 of the red silicone insulated, shielded, the probe ends stainless 316 double crimped and filled with thermal conductive grease.
These are great temp probes, all of them test to within .0625C or .1125F of each other with 3 testing exactly the same, and one outlier that tests .1125 degrees low. And they all test within .1 degree of a 2 point calibrated NTC thermistor. These are the probes to get! Saltwater guys may want to still coat the stainless, but it is 316 stainless, and the double rolled crimp on the silicone wire insulation, looks very waterproof.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Tempera...SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=drok+ds18b20&psc=1