My sps frags are dying..
- Thread starter Kaludar
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sharklover
Community Member
+1 on the iodine dip recommendation. i had a single zoa frag polyp that was melting away for two weeks. after one lugos session it started showing signs of life within 48-72 hours and now fully opens to the best of its ability. (still recovering).
I certainly agree with the consensus here:
a) increasing nutrient with several feedings of a higher protein food like mysis
b) waning off NoPox -- and we ALL used to believe in 0 nutrient as the way to go so you're in good company.
c) Systems with more fish seem to keep SPS in a better place; a more diverse and mature biome too.
d) going slow, keeping it otherwise stable
One thing I will add that has not yet been touched on is SPS acclimation. I used to lose a "typical" percentage of new frags. After learning here (years) I really don't have problems with new sticks.
a) Know your vendor parameters are in close range to yours. Buy from those that post similar numbers.
b) Temp acclimate in shade
c) Do not dip on day one. Keep them in sub 200 PAR for a few days. Let them destress.
d) Then go on to your dipping process. Which is a whole nother thread itself potentially with many valid opinions.
Hopefully you did not start out with HW or WD. Keep it simple for a few tries.
a) increasing nutrient with several feedings of a higher protein food like mysis
b) waning off NoPox -- and we ALL used to believe in 0 nutrient as the way to go so you're in good company.
c) Systems with more fish seem to keep SPS in a better place; a more diverse and mature biome too.
d) going slow, keeping it otherwise stable
One thing I will add that has not yet been touched on is SPS acclimation. I used to lose a "typical" percentage of new frags. After learning here (years) I really don't have problems with new sticks.
a) Know your vendor parameters are in close range to yours. Buy from those that post similar numbers.
b) Temp acclimate in shade
c) Do not dip on day one. Keep them in sub 200 PAR for a few days. Let them destress.
d) Then go on to your dipping process. Which is a whole nother thread itself potentially with many valid opinions.
Hopefully you did not start out with HW or WD. Keep it simple for a few tries.
IslandLifeReef
Valuable Member
@Kaludar, stability is the key to reefing. I wouldn't give up on your SPS unless they are skeletons covered with algae. You never know if the will bounce back or not. Since you stopped the NoPoX totally, I wouldn't change anything else for a couple of weeks to let the tank stabilize. Another thing you could add to your tank now that will only help is Pods and Phyto. The bacteria addition that was mentioned also can't hurt.
IslandLifeReef
Valuable Member
How much carbon? I wouldn't think a small amount of carbon would have any effect. A large amount might. I always run about 1/4 cup of carbon in a mesh bag in my sump for a 44 gal tank. I change it every 3 months.
JCOLE
Grower of the Small Polyps
No, that shouldn't be an issue.
Curious if you started with dry rock 8 months ago? If so, you might enjoy reading up on this thread started by @ycnibrc .
www.reef2reef.com
The context is "if parameters are in good range and stability, why you might still fail to keep SPS."
Another good read IMO:
www.reef2reef.com
Have you ever dived/snorkeled in a thriving reef without a ton of fish in it? (Although thriving reefs are increasingly only in remote places, sadly.)
Why cant u keep sps?
Well first and for most im not a scientist or marine biologist my theory base only on my experience and observation on my reef tank. I just want to help those that have problems keeping sps. In this discussion please keep it positive and dont make it to “i know better than u or led is better...
www.reef2reef.com
The context is "if parameters are in good range and stability, why you might still fail to keep SPS."
Another good read IMO:
Does anyone think having A LOT of fish aids in having a successful SPS dominant/only reef? Weigh in...
Ok, to play off of @ycnibrc 's bacteria thread, I've seen the most successful, thriving reef tanks having a few common factors between them. Successful to me means great coloration and growth, not just one or the other. 1) The obvious common factor is super clean source water: filters changed...
www.reef2reef.com
Have you ever dived/snorkeled in a thriving reef without a ton of fish in it? (Although thriving reefs are increasingly only in remote places, sadly.)
ycnibrc
SOCAL REEF TOTM 11/2019 GHL TOTM 02/2020
This particular tank has very low nutrients and if you dont feed the corals they will starve and start losing the Zooxanthellae. Also if you start with all dry rock and you dont add bacteria supplements then your tank is lacking of other beneficial bacteria and microorganisms. In the old day we can get real live rock from the ocean which contain many different strain of bacteria in which will populate when tank is matured. At that time the tank is ready for sps. However now we start with all dry rock and the only bacteria that u have is the nitrogen cycle for the tank. We never have to add bacteria before because we have real live rock.
SeaDweller
2500 Club Member
stop dosing NOPOX, let your alk fall to 7.0 and try to raise your N and P levels, your SPS are starving and 8.0 alk might be too high for your tank right now. Don't listen to someone telling you to RAISE it. LOWER your alk and raise your N and P levels.
I did start with all dry rock. I watched some brstv “how to start a reef” guides and went with dry rock as they suggested I wish I would have done more research.
I am not hopeful that these sps frags are going to make it at this point they are getting worse daily.
My current plan:
rent a par meter for a week to ensure my light levels are appropriate.
stop no pox.
increase feeding.
I’m going to get some bacteria to supplement as well does anyone have some recommendations for that?
I am not hopeful that these sps frags are going to make it at this point they are getting worse daily.
My current plan:
rent a par meter for a week to ensure my light levels are appropriate.
stop no pox.
increase feeding.
I’m going to get some bacteria to supplement as well does anyone have some recommendations for that?
artieg1
Active Member
Just quick, I agree 100% on stopping nopox. Algae is a pain, but efforts to stop it cause more harm than good, in my first hand experience. Been there, done that. I would definitely urge changing only one thing at a time, waiting a week and watching and keeping things stable.
I’ll try not to change too much at once. Upon close inspection of my other corals I have a bit of tissue loss on my acan and it’s not extending fully anymore and there is tissue loss on one of the “spikes” for lack of a better word on the inner part of my scolyimia these are at the bottom of the tank so definitely not a lighting issue.
I agree with a lot of what's been said, and in particular go slow with the changes. I agree with stopping the nopox as I suspect it is slowing the maturation of your tank. Here is an old link that may be of some interest, but ultimately I think your tank needs some more nutrients which will both benefit the coral and help the system mature.
www.reef2reef.com
Can High calcium cause acropora to loose colors ?
I’ve noticed some of my acros loosing color lately. My nitrates have always been that high and corps seem to like it and sps color up nicely. Dosing Red Sea colors and 1 tea spoon/gal of Kalwaser with ATO in 75 g display (full of corals) and 40 g sump. Why is my calcium so high and could it...
www.reef2reef.com
24 hours now since stopping nopox phosphates are up .01 to .02ppm and I see a tiny bit of polyp extension on the still living part of my sps they have been fully retracted prior.
Also I hope I’m not spamming this thread to much this has become kind of a running log of my thoughts and you guys have given me some great info I would had no idea to look at nutrients otherwise.
Also I hope I’m not spamming this thread to much this has become kind of a running log of my thoughts and you guys have given me some great info I would had no idea to look at nutrients otherwise.
Daddy-o
2500 Club Member
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It's your thread!!! Grab it by the reins and run with it
Keep it coming @Kaludar .
Lets go back to the question about adding bacteria... I would wait a bit until your nutrient is steadily detectable via dosing or fish food as they tend to consume them. Once there, there are many bacterial options, but I don't have a lot of first hand knowledge as I just keep a lot of old rock alive somehow that seems to get me through.
The "why can't you keep SPS" thread talks some about the Zeovit method of bac dosing. You could read up there and ask some questions.
Lets go back to the question about adding bacteria... I would wait a bit until your nutrient is steadily detectable via dosing or fish food as they tend to consume them. Once there, there are many bacterial options, but I don't have a lot of first hand knowledge as I just keep a lot of old rock alive somehow that seems to get me through.
The "why can't you keep SPS" thread talks some about the Zeovit method of bac dosing. You could read up there and ask some questions.
IslandLifeReef
Valuable Member
Hang in there @Kaludar. As I said earlier, I would highly consider adding Pods and Phyto to the tank. The Pods will eat detritus and provide a food source for some fish and some corals. The Phyto will compete with algae for nutrients, provide a food source for both the Pods and your coral. This also adds diversity to your tank. It fills in the gaps between microscopic bacteria and the other living creatures in your tank. Check out @AlgaeBarn, they have some good articles on this. I made two orders for Pods over two months and dosed live Phyto for 3 months. Now the Pods are self sustaining.
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