Nano aquiarum - but a bit different use.

[Nostromos]

Looking to make a display tank for a diaphonized stingray that my girlfriend has done. Dimensions are 8x2x10". See some things that 3/32" glass would work fine, others that it would fail at the bottom even when its usually set on a flat surface (this would be moved around for display at vendor shows and potentially sold). Google AI says 1/4 is needed, other sites say 1/8 is needed, others that 3/32 would be fine. Looking for people working with this for a better answer. Would be sealing with 100% silicone and it will be filled with glycerin (higher density than water, about 1.261 g/cm³). Have done it with acrylic but thats such a pain to work with and seal properly, plus scratches so easily so hoping to do it in glass instead.

 

[Fish Fan]

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

#WelcometoR2R

Why not just buy a small, rimless tank that's already assembled? They are readily available, and not very expensive.

Good luck with your project!

 

[Nostromos]

A couple reasons, size/weight being the biggest item. This enclosure is about 8x2x10", mainly made to keep the diaphonized stingray flat against the glass for best display. Also I need it fully enclosed so the glycerin doesn't move during transport (its messy stuff). Hence why I was looking at going custom on the build.

 

[Fish Fan]

With that in mind, I am just guessing, but to me the 1/4" would be overkill and 1/8" seems to thin and fragile, especially if you're moving this tank around. I'd be looking at 3/16" glass myself.

@UncommonSense what do you think?

 

[UncommonSense]

What an interesting tank shape!

Are you planning to go rimmed, or rimless? — this will definitely affect final glass thickness!

— Based on your initial dimensions, and assuming the tank is rimless, here’s what a glass thickness calculator pulls up at a standard 3.8 safety factor:

So, 1/8” is a tad too thin for the vertical panes, and 3/16” is a tad too thin for the bottom… (3/16” /4.5mm sides, 1/4”/6mm bottom pane minimum)

(this would be moved around for display at vendor shows and potentially sold).

This is the real kicker… a 20 gallon tank is usually 3/16” glass, and those aren’t exactly bulletproof, even at only 2ft long! It would probably be fine if it was getting set up and never moved again with 3/16” glass, but that’s not the case here!

Because this tank is very liable to take some knocks/bumps/etc with frequent moves, you’re DEFINITELY going to want to overbuild!

— I’d do a second layer of 1/4” glass strips stacked at the perimeter of the bottom pane to double bottom seam thickness, plus a eurobrace or top center braces in 1/4”… alternatively, go to 5/16”-3/8” (8-10mm) for the bottom pane, and 1/4” (6mm) for the vertical panes! (The bottom pane sees the highest hydrostatic pressure, and its thickness determine bottom structural silicone seam thickness on a rimless tank!)

(a 40 breeder is typically 1/4”[6mm], and each 3ft vertical pane bends roughly 3/32” in the middle when the tank is filled, primarily due to no top center brace!)


Edit: I just noted the dense glycerine component… here’s the updated calculation with safety factor corrected for a fluid at 1.26SG

 

[Nostromos]

Sorry I think my dimensioned got misinterpreted (or I typed them wrong, as this isn't something I normally do). Its 10" tall, 8" wide and 2" deep, picture attached. This is all rimless (similar to the plexiglass one I'm showing in the picture). I can do it with plexi but it the discoloration, pain to seal well and easy scratches is why I'm looking at the glass potentially (although sourcing glass inexpensively is becoming a serious pain).

 

[UncommonSense]

Sorry I think my dimensioned got misinterpreted (or I typed them wrong, as this isn't something I normally do). Its 10" tall, 8" wide and 2" deep, picture attached. This is all rimless (similar to the plexiglass one I'm showing in the picture). I can do it with plexi but it the discoloration, pain to seal well and easy scratches is why I'm looking at the glass potentially (although sourcing glass inexpensively is becoming a serious pain).

Oh!! My mistake! Haha I was wondering why you were referring to it as a Nano!

In this case, the glass could literally be 1/64” thick and it would still hold water! — 1/8” would be acceptable glass thickness, or 3/16” if you want it to be extremely durable!

Regarding sourcing glass? Go on your local craigslist and look for a free leaky tank! — 10gal rimmed is usually ~1/8” thick glass, 20gal rimmed is usually ~3/16” thick glass, 40gal breeder is usually ~1/4” thick glass!

 

[Nostromos]

Oh!! My mistake! Haha I was wondering why you were referring to it as a Nano!

In this case, the glass could literally be 1/64” thick and it would still hold water! — 1/8” would be acceptable glass thickness, or 3/16” if you want it to be extremely durable!

Regarding sourcing glass? Go on your local craigslist and look for a free leaky tank! — 10gal rimmed is usually ~1/8” thick glass, 20gal rimmed is usually ~3/16” thick glass, 40gal breeder is usually ~1/4” thick glass!

All good, thats why I clarified....as I said, Google AI slop said 1/4" the calculator you referenced I'd checked before and it said 1/8 would work with 3/16" for the bottom, other bits said 1/8 or even 3/32's would work. I'll also have to check that the stingray itself isn't going to put pressure on the glass and cause issues. I'll check for the cheap aquariums/resales, thats an awesome idea!

 

[UncommonSense]

the calculator you referenced I'd checked before and it said 1/8 would work with 3/16" for the bottom

Here I am screwing up the dimensions yet again… the example photo’s front pane was so clean that I thought it wasn’t there, making it look like a 10”x8”x2” tall tank! (Clearly I need another cup of coffee!)

Here’s the actual calculation for this tank, with the safety factor adjusted to account for the SG of glycerine:

So, because this tank is rimless, the bottom pane sits inside the vertical panes… this means the bottom pane’s thickness will dictate the bottom structural silicone seam thickness! — hence the thickness requirement for the bottom pane! (6mm glass is ~.232”, and would be ideal here)

The vertical panes could definitely be 1/8” and still hold water… but, as @Fish Fan said, 1/8” thick glass is remarkably flimsy vs. 3/16”! The skinny side panes also sit inside the long viewing panes, so their thickness dictates the thickness of the vertical structural silicone seams!

Oddly enough, this means that the largest panes (front/rear viewing panes) can theoretically be the thinnest part of this tank from a fluid holding perspective… but, I think this tank will last much longer if you go over minimum spec for the largest (most breakable) panes of the tank!


I’d recommend stopping by a local glass cutter to see if you can get your hands on a 1-1/2” wide strip of 6mm (~1/4”) glass… then, look for a cheap/free used 20g tank which isn’t all scratched up (one with a broken pane works great, you just harvest the other four!)… you can score/snap your 1-1/2” strip of 6mm to make multiple bottom panes (or bottom pane plus skinny vertical panes), then fashion the vertical panes from the 3/16” harvested from the 20G tank!

(Because the bottom and side panes sit inside the front and rear panes in a rimless design, you’ll subtract front/rear pane thickness [~3/8”] plus 1/16”-1/32” of silicone seams on each side, landing at right around 1-1/2” wide for the bottom and skinny side panes!)

 

[Nostromos]

Here I am screwing up the dimensions yet again… the example photo’s front pane was so clean that I thought it wasn’t there, making it look like a 10”x8”x2” tall tank! (Clearly I need another cup of coffee!)

Here’s the actual calculation for this tank, with the safety factor adjusted to account for the SG of glycerine:

So, because this tank is rimless, the bottom pane sits inside the vertical panes… this means the bottom pane’s thickness will dictate the bottom structural silicone seam thickness! — hence the thickness requirement for the bottom pane! (6mm glass is ~.232”, and would be ideal here)

The vertical panes could definitely be 1/8” and still hold water… but, as @Fish Fan said, 1/8” thick glass is remarkably flimsy vs. 3/16”! The skinny side panes also sit inside the long viewing panes, so their thickness dictates the thickness of the vertical structural silicone seams!

Oddly enough, this means that the largest panes (front/rear viewing panes) can theoretically be the thinnest part of this tank from a fluid holding perspective… but, I think this tank will last much longer if you go over minimum spec for the largest (most breakable) panes of the tank!


I’d recommend stopping by a local glass cutter to see if you can get your hands on a 1-1/2” wide strip of 6mm (~1/4”) glass… then, look for a cheap/free used 20g tank which isn’t all scratched up (one with a broken pane works great, you just harvest the other four!)… you can score/snap your 1-1/2” strip of 6mm to make multiple bottom panes (or bottom pane plus skinny vertical panes), then fashion the vertical panes from the 3/16” harvested from the 20G tank!

(Because the bottom and side panes sit inside the front and rear panes in a rimless design, you’ll subtract front/rear pane thickness [~3/8”] plus 1/16”-1/32” of silicone seams on each side, landing at right around 1-1/2” wide for the bottom and skinny side panes!)

Appreciate all the info and that aquarium trick I can tell is already going to pay off quick. Actually based on the picture it doesn't have a bottom panel at current (never finished it). I had planned for the top and bottom pannels to sit outside the 4 outer walls as I figured that would provide the least structual issues for the bottom panel (plus makes it easier to fill then close off the top. Remember, this isn't the typical open top aquarium, its an enclosed fluid display. Better idea of what I'm talking about (one of the specimens I'm putting inside the glass enclosure). The attached picture the top and bottom sit outside the 4 walls, and everything is sealed with a plug at the top for filling/stringing up as needed. Didn't get this one totally finished so he looks off (and the display is too small for him anyway). You can see all the crazing issues I've had with plexi LOL.

 

[UncommonSense]

Appreciate all the info and that aquarium trick I can tell is already going to pay off quick. Actually based on the picture it doesn't have a bottom panel at current (never finished it). I had planned for the top and bottom pannels to sit outside the 4 outer walls as I figured that would provide the least structual issues for the bottom panel (plus makes it easier to fill then close off the top. Remember, this isn't the typical open top aquarium, it’s an enclosed fluid display. Better idea of what I'm talking about (one of the specimens I'm putting inside the glass enclosure). The attached picture the top and bottom sit outside the 4 walls, and everything is sealed with a plug at the top for filling/stringing up as needed. Didn't get this one totally finished so he looks off (and the display is too small for him anyway). You can see all the crazing issues I've had with plexi LOL.

Ah, this makes much more sense! Very cool, by the way!

Well, in this case, you can probably get away with 3/16” thickness (or 5mm, if you can get it!) for everything, as the top rim of the “tank” will be supported and kept from bowing out by the glass pane capping everything off!

 

[Nostromos]

My only other thought was providing some plastic trim to go across the bottom frame/top to provide a little "structure" or rim but not sure if it's even worth the effort.

 

[Fish Fan]

I'm just going to throw out a thought here. I think acrylic is the way to go for your project, and hear me out

If you get the real acrylic they build acrylic aquariums out of, that material is optically clearer than glass.

If you use Weld-On acrylic adhesive and proper technique, two pieces of acrylic become chemically welded into one. When done correctly, the joints look practically invisible, which I think would look great for your project.

Acrylic will be lighter, easier to transport, more resistant to breaking, and safer than glass in the event of a break.

The only downside is that yes, acrylic scratches easily but those scratches can be fairly easily buffed out, resulting in the piece looking brand new again. It's much easier to buff out scratches in acrylic than glass.

Just my $0.02

 

[UncommonSense]

My only other thought was providing some plastic trim to go across the bottom frame/top to provide a little "structure" or rim but not sure if it's even worth the effort.

I’m not sure that this would do much, unless you went back into plastic welding it all together into monolithic frames!

@Fish Fan does make a good point about the acrylic… proper cell cast acrylic (vs. cheaper extruded acrylic) is much more pleasant to work with… you still need to get a very good cut edge finish to get it to weld together into a watertight box, but there are several methods of achieving this, including just having a local plastic fabrication/signage shop make the pieces for you!

Glass would likely be the less expensive route, and the only major concern would be breaking a pane, assuming you use a quality silicone!