Need a definitive answer on WHAT BRAND & WHERE TO BUY 420nm 3w LED diodes that DONT burn up
- Thread starter ZoWhat
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Joekovar
Active Member
To measure this particular load with that DVM850 meter, you'd move the red lead to the hole labeled "10ADC", short for "10 AMPS DC". It's likely going to give you a reading like "0.7" or "0.72" or something along those lines for 700ma, 720ma, or whatever the load is.
To measure the load on a single LED, hook one up like you normally would, but put the red meter prong on your power sources positive terminal, and your black meter lead on the red wire you would have on the terminal. You're putting your meter in series with the circuit, and you're using the 10ADC setting because 200ma is as high as your other side will read. (it's fused, so it will just say something like OL if you try to meter it on the 200 setting)
To measure the load on a single LED, hook one up like you normally would, but put the red meter prong on your power sources positive terminal, and your black meter lead on the red wire you would have on the terminal. You're putting your meter in series with the circuit, and you're using the 10ADC setting because 200ma is as high as your other side will read. (it's fused, so it will just say something like OL if you try to meter it on the 200 setting)
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OP
ZoWhat
7500 Club Member
@redfishbluefish
Power supply
Dimming switch external
Dimming switch internal
When dial turned to MAX.... my 420nm LEDs are reading btwn 3.4 to 3.7v
I got various voltages among differing 420nm LEDs
Am I using the WRONG LEDs??? Been buying 3w 700mA
If I remember correctly Watts = volts time amps
So if I maxed out the dual 3.5 x .7 = 2.45 watts
Still UNDER the 3w ratings. But still bbq'ing the diode lens
More thoughts
Power supply
Dimming switch external
Dimming switch internal
When dial turned to MAX.... my 420nm LEDs are reading btwn 3.4 to 3.7v
I got various voltages among differing 420nm LEDs
Am I using the WRONG LEDs??? Been buying 3w 700mA
If I remember correctly Watts = volts time amps
So if I maxed out the dual 3.5 x .7 = 2.45 watts
Still UNDER the 3w ratings. But still bbq'ing the diode lens
More thoughts
naoki
Community Member
These 1W, 3W, 5W "rating" is based on the maximum current. If you take the datasheet, the nominal current is usually 1/2 of less of the maximum current. In other words, nobody will run 3W-class diodes close to 3W. For the fixture which runs for a long time (instead of light bulbs which usually runs only a couple hours a day), the current should be lower than the nominal current in the datasheet to increase the efficiency.
First thing is that you have to measure the current for each diode. You have to unsolder one end of the diode, and insert the meter in serial. Or if you can trace the circuit (i.e. how many parallel lines), you can guess it since the driver is 550mA CC driver. If there are two parallel line, each line is getting 275mA (although those cheap drivers can be quite off from the spec).
If you find the driving current, you might be able to find a good replacement (or it could be a flawed design). SemiLEDs are common since it is cheaper, but VioSys has better efficiency.
If it is possible, you can insert 2 LEDs in parallel in place of one LED. Then each will get 1/2 of the current, and less likely to have problems (and it will increase the total output a little due to the increase in efficiency).
First thing is that you have to measure the current for each diode. You have to unsolder one end of the diode, and insert the meter in serial. Or if you can trace the circuit (i.e. how many parallel lines), you can guess it since the driver is 550mA CC driver. If there are two parallel line, each line is getting 275mA (although those cheap drivers can be quite off from the spec).
If you find the driving current, you might be able to find a good replacement (or it could be a flawed design). SemiLEDs are common since it is cheaper, but VioSys has better efficiency.
If it is possible, you can insert 2 LEDs in parallel in place of one LED. Then each will get 1/2 of the current, and less likely to have problems (and it will increase the total output a little due to the increase in efficiency).
OP
OP
ZoWhat
7500 Club Member
OP.
CASE CLOSED.... confirmed with Scott at SBReefing that 390 to 420nm diodes that come from CHINA ...their lens are made from PVC plastic and that wavelength just CHARS, TATTOS and BBQs the lens after 9mos on avg.
I WILL NOT buy anymore Ebay Chinese 390, 410, 420nm diodes. WA$TE of my American money
Uuuuurgh.
Why would they manufacture diodes knowing the FRY within 9mos.
SBReefing has a trade secret in getting 420s with SILICONE based lens that last years longer. Dint know how he pulled it off... I've spend 30-40 hrs researching the "420nm" diode. There is NO documentation anywhere..... all.i can find are Ebay and Amazon distributors who sell the cheap plastic lens 420 ones that FRY like bacon
Can you tell imagine lil urinated off?
Case closed. Im.buying SBReefing Retro boards as replacements
sbreeflights.com
CASE CLOSED.... confirmed with Scott at SBReefing that 390 to 420nm diodes that come from CHINA ...their lens are made from PVC plastic and that wavelength just CHARS, TATTOS and BBQs the lens after 9mos on avg.
I WILL NOT buy anymore Ebay Chinese 390, 410, 420nm diodes. WA$TE of my American money
Uuuuurgh.
Why would they manufacture diodes knowing the FRY within 9mos.
SBReefing has a trade secret in getting 420s with SILICONE based lens that last years longer. Dint know how he pulled it off... I've spend 30-40 hrs researching the "420nm" diode. There is NO documentation anywhere..... all.i can find are Ebay and Amazon distributors who sell the cheap plastic lens 420 ones that FRY like bacon
Can you tell imagine lil urinated off?
Case closed. Im.buying SBReefing Retro boards as replacements
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Not sure if I'm too late but for what it's worth I can say I found a manufacturer that has glass lenses. I know because I messed up one time and crushed the lens and it fragmented into glass shards.
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