Need help plumbing

Bayareareefer18

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I must be lucky, home depot and lowes both carry schedule 80 up here in the great white North. I personally think schedule 80 is overkill for all of our applications, I just order online from formufit for all the lovely coloured stuff and zoro.com for valves and adapters. Both are pretty cheap so ordering extras is no no deal.
You are lucky and yes sch80 is way overkill for our applications. I think people do it moreso for aestethic reasons.

I ordered my red pvc on Amazon
 

JoshH

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You are lucky and yes sch80 is way overkill for our applications. I think people do it moreso for aestethic reasons.

I ordered my red pvc on Amazon

What's Amazon's price on coloured PVC? I couldn't find a better price than formufit but I never looked on amazon
 
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Thank you for all the replies I will get some solvent/glue for PVC pipes.

Following this. I’m in the same situation plumbing for the first time. I also got modular marine. Share some pictures so we can see
emoji3.png
Haha nice to know I’m not the only one struggling with reef plumbing at the beginning. I was going with the Synergy Reef Overflow at first until a few people introduced Modular Marine Overflows to me. I don’t have many pictures on my phone because I just upgraded to a new devise but I post my progress on here:
https://www.instagram.com/sung.anthozoa/

1. Some of you said Sch80 isn’t necessary. I want extremely little chance of leaks. If Sch40 is good enough I’ll get it instead.

2. I want to somehow transition the 1/2” ID (3/4” OD) Silicon tubing to a 1” Sch40 PVC tubing. How do I do this?
 

Bayareareefer18

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Thank you for all the replies I will get some solvent/glue for PVC pipes.


Haha nice to know I’m not the only one struggling with reef plumbing at the beginning. I was going with the Synergy Reef Overflow at first until a few people introduced Modular Marine Overflows to me. I don’t have many pictures on my phone because I just upgraded to a new devise but I post my progress on here:
https://www.instagram.com/sung.anthozoa/

1. Some of you said Sch80 isn’t necessary. I want extremely little chance of leaks. If Sch40 is good enough I’ll get it instead.

2. I want to somehow transition the 1/2” ID (3/4” OD) Silicon tubing to a 1” Sch40 PVC tubing. How do I do this?
Sch40 is a thicker plastic. With the pressure we are dealing with it really isn't necessary. It also is beneficial underground as it can hold up to ground movement better.

A good glue joint is all you need. Plumbing isn't as scary as it seems ;)

To transition tubing to pvc you will need the proper barbed adaptor. You can get the barbed fittings in with socket or street. I order my barber adaptors from brs

When I did my build I went with the oatey all purpose glue in the red can only because I wasn't sure what the exact material the bulkheads on my overflow were made out of ie pvc, cpvc, abs, etc

For all my plumbing jobs I always use red hot glue but in this case the all purpose was a great option. Also if you are plumbing indoor low voc is important;)
 

JoshH

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Sch40 is a thicker plastic.

Did you mean Sch80 is thicker???

Thank you for all the replies I will get some solvent/glue for PVC pipes.


Haha nice to know I’m not the only one struggling with reef plumbing at the beginning. I was going with the Synergy Reef Overflow at first until a few people introduced Modular Marine Overflows to me. I don’t have many pictures on my phone because I just upgraded to a new devise but I post my progress on here:
https://www.instagram.com/sung.anthozoa/

1. Some of you said Sch80 isn’t necessary. I want extremely little chance of leaks. If Sch40 is good enough I’ll get it instead.

2. I want to somehow transition the 1/2” ID (3/4” OD) Silicon tubing to a 1” Sch40 PVC tubing. How do I do this?


Sch40 is all we really need, buy a few extra fittings and practice your gluing skills, you'll be amazed at how easy it really is. And as mentioned above a barb to slip than a reducer to in This case bring you up to 1"
 

Bayareareefer18

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Did you mean Sch80 is thicker???




Sch40 is all we really need, buy a few extra fittings and practice your gluing skills, you'll be amazed at how easy it really is. And as mentioned above a barb to slip than a reducer to in This case bring you up to 1"
Ya sorry typo

And nice thing is brs sells street barbs (spigot) so you can put straight into a slip fitting without an additional bushing

Street fittings are great for saving space. Get a mix of slip and street 45s, 90s, etc
 

JoshH

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Bayareareefer18

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Another quick tip. If you are dry fitting remember that when you glue your overall lengths will change. You could suck up an extra 1/4' or so on each side of the fitting once glued in all the way

Make nice straight cuts. Pvc cutters are great for that. When you glue your joints push them in then quarter turn them and hold in place so that they don't push out once the solvent starts to expand the pvc
 

Bayareareefer18

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I think you would still need the bushing reducer for the spigot x barb to get the 1/2" to 1" and This is what that looks like..

https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?...gs-Slip-Spg&p_id=437-130-L&xm=on&ppinc=detail
Ya I think you are right I was thinking for some reason that brs had transition barbs buy ya a bushing is simple

I know many people use it but never been a fan of flex pvc. I have seen too many failures.

My business, among many other things, is installing pool equipment so I see this stuff all the time but I'll let those that have more rwed experience with that be the judge
 

JoshH

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Ya I think you are right I was thinking for some reason that brs had transition barbs buy ya a bushing is simple

I know many people use it but never been a fan of flex pvc. I have seen too many failures.

My business, among many other things, is installing pool equipment so I see this stuff all the time but I'll let those that have more rwed experience with that be the judge

They might, I haven't seen them but there's endless types of fittings out there I'm sure someone could hunt them down. And I've never worked with flex PVC myself so I can't speak for it's durability or longevity. I prefer hard plumbing everywhere I can and use reg vinyl tubing where I need something with some flex.
 

Bayareareefer18

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They might, I haven't seen them but there's endless types of fittings out there I'm sure someone could hunt them down. And I've never worked with flex PVC myself so I can't speak for it's durability or longevity. I prefer hard plumbing everywhere I can and use reg vinyl tubing where I need something with some flex.
I hard plumbed all mine as well except for a couple feet of 1' black tubing at return pump. Didn't have much of a choice since pump had a 1" barb but it's also good for vibration
 

Bayareareefer18

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They might, I haven't seen them but there's endless types of fittings out there I'm sure someone could hunt them down. And I've never worked with flex PVC myself so I can't speak for it's durability or longevity. I prefer hard plumbing everywhere I can and use reg vinyl tubing where I need something with some flex.
You are right about the myriad of different fittings out there. In the pool industry we have a couple specialty fittings that are life savers. Fitting extenders and pipe extenders. Also all of our 1.5" and 2" 90s we use now are sweeps and not hard 90s
 
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Thank you!
So far my cart at BRS looks like this:

3494835E-05E3-485B-9C48-33505A3F1215.png


1. I want a Union that connects between the Reducer and the PVC Pipes. Do I get a regular 1” Union?

2. How do I connect the Union with the reducer and PVC Pipes. My guess is solvent/glue.

3. With Sch80 Reducers/fittings/unions will this work with Sch40 PVC Pipes?
 

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So unfortunately you will have a few options regarding the bulkheads. The hole size for a 3/4" Uni-seal is 1 1/4" or 1.250 the hole size for a 3/4" ABS bulkhead is 1.33 so you have to enlarge the hole slightly if you use the bulkheads. Modular Marine designed that overflow with Uni-seals so I would think it would be fine to use them, but I all comes down to what you feel comfortable with doing.
 
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So unfortunately you will have a few options regarding the bulkheads. The hole size for a 3/4" Uni-seal is 1 1/4" or 1.250 the hole size for a 3/4" ABS bulkhead is 1.33 so you have to enlarge the hole slightly if you use the bulkheads. Modular Marine designed that overflow with Uni-seals so I would think it would be fine to use them, but I all comes down to what you feel comfortable with doing.
Oh no. I heard uniseals wear out long term and will most likely result in a leak so I wanted to switch to bulk head.
How to I enlarge the hole?
Or any other options for this?
 

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You should make a jig out of wood to hold the glass drill bit in place. I’d probably silicone it to the glass and let it dry. Then the wood and silicone will not only hold the bit in place to get a grove started so bit stays in place, but will keep water that you should use in a pool, and keep the bit and glass cool which is a must to avoid cracks

And yes bulkhead instead of Uniseal is much safer. Schedule 80 instead of 40 on bulkhead a good idea too. For pipes and fittings schedule 40 is more than enough
 
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You should make a jig out of wood to hold the glass drill bit in place. I’d probably silicone it to the glass and let it dry. Then the wood and silicone will not only hold the bit in place to get a grove started so bit stays in place, but will keep water that you should use in a pool, and keep the bit and glass cool which is a must to avoid cracks
Thank you! This will help me achieve a clean hole drilled in the tank.
 
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Quick question:
I will connect the 1/2” Pipe Adapter Spigot X Barb to a Sch80 Reducing Bushing 1” Spigot X 1/2” Slip.

How do I connect the Reducing Bushing to a Union due to the hexagonal shape?
 
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