Need Help with BlueAcro AcroStar Pendant Build for 375g Tank

[pfoxgrover]

I am trying to plan out the lighting for a 375g tank build (5' x 5' x 2') I am working on to upgrade from my 240g SPS reef tank and could use some help.
I am thinking of using these AcroStar Mega4z lights 1 each per pendant.
Would like to use a passively cooled pendant heatsink like the picture attached.
AcroIQ drivers 2 per pendant (each one is two channels)
Enclosed Meanwell power supply one each pendant (Model: GST60A-24-P1J, Output: 24V, up to 2.5A)
One Storm X controller for all the lights (9 or 16 pendants, not sure how many I will use to light the tank.)
I was hoping I could manually adjust the spectrum balance using the dials on the two AcroIQ drivers per pendant and bridge one Storm X channel to all 4 PWM ports between the two AcroIQs to control the overall intensity. That way in theory I could individually address all 9 or 16 lights over the tank for intensity.

-Would all these parts work together?
-I am not a fan of the really blue looking lights and I don't know if I can adjust these lights (Mega4z Pro or regular) to give me a more 14000 to 18000 k look?
-Will these lights melt down on this heatsink without active cooling? I read that theatrus said that the half mega lights were too hot for a short 2 inch round heatsink even with a small fan. These heatsinks are very large (9" in diameter and 4.5 " tall) and have a copper heat pipe in the center. Not sure if that will do it. I really don't want a ton of fans over the tank making noise and possibly failing.
-Does the Storm X push enough current to run 9 or 16 lights with the 4 channels on each light bridged together?
-How many of these would I need for a 5' x 5' x 2' (L x W x H) tank with SPS and Clams?
-I am having a hard time getting any questions answered from BlueAcro, are they still in business?
-Are there other DIY lights you think would work better? Are the Lumia 5.2 lights good?

 

[User1]

@pfoxgrover - Did you happen to shoot BluAcro a message by any chance? He typically responds pretty quick.

I'm using the AcroStar Mega4z Pro's as well but with a different power supply from Meanwell and his other drivers. I am going to be dimming using an Apex controller. You will be able to adjust each channel although I don't know much about the storm controller you are using. Also the driver you added a picture two shows only two dim channels. Mine has 4. The heatsink you have is probably ok because you shouldn't be running the chip at 100%. My heatsinks are larger and I have fans on the top.
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[pfoxgrover]

@pfoxgrover - Did you happen to shoot BluAcro a message by any chance? He typically responds pretty quick.

I'm using the AcroStar Mega4z Pro's as well but with a different power supply from Meanwell and his other drivers. I am going to be dimming using an Apex controller. You will be able to adjust each channel although I don't know much about the storm controller you are using. Also the driver you added a picture two shows only two dim channels. Mine has 4. The heatsink you have is probably ok because you shouldn't be running the chip at 100%. My heatsinks are larger and I have fans on the top.
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saf1,
Thanks for the reply.
I don't think they still make the 4 channel driver so I was going to use 2 of the 2 channel drivers. I know the pro version says 20 k but do you think it is very blue? I hate the super blue look that looks like a black light. I know color temperature is a poor measure but I know I like the brighter more natural look of a 14 - 18k range. given that ,do you think i will like the mega4z pro?
I have tried reaching BlueAcro using there support email [email protected], facebook post, and facebook messenger. I have not tried to PM on reef2reef yet. Its been 12 days since the first email I sent.
-Paul

 

[User1]

@pfoxgrover - 12 days huh? That is a bit longer than what I've had in the past with him. Could always try again just to be safe. I know when I last exchanged emails with him he was low on stock and pretty busy with the holidays. I'd try again though.

The 20k is blue. I fired a pair up last week to gauge the spread over the tank. Mine is 54" wide x 30" height x 30" deep so was a bit concerned about the spread over the tank at 30". Like I mentioned I'll be controlling the spectrum with the controller. I am doing that now using a different pair of multi channel LED's from Rapid LED - Borealis which they no longer make. It has 12 lime greens - so needed to dial those down a bit

Since I have the 20K pro it has royal blue, or just blue, in all of the channels. Channel three if I recall had more white than blue so may be the channel to adjust blue out if it is an issue. I personally like more blue in the spectrum which is why I went with the 20k's. I have another multi chip array like I said which I can tune in more natural warm white if need be.

The chips are good but you will need to be able to control them from the sounds of it. I think you will like the chip but adjusting the spectrum to your taste may not be enough due to blues in all channels. Have you fired them up yet?

 

[pfoxgrover]

I haven't bought anything yet. The website says the pro is out of stock. I was planning on making one up an trying it out on my existing tank although I am a little concerned about ordering since I can't get a hold of anyone. I wish the 14k and 18k came in a 48w version. The non-Pro version has most of the white in one channel which could help but I imagine the Pro is improved color blending and has the better UV i think. Your tank is pretty deep, what spacing do you think would work for your tank?

 

[pfoxgrover]

@theatrus you out there?

 

[pfoxgrover]

duplicate entry

 

[pfoxgrover]

duplicate entry

 

[pfoxgrover]

I am starting to think that BlueAcro may no longer be in business. I have been waiting 17 days for a response
In hopes that I am wrong does anyone know the spacing for the mounting holes on the MegaZ?

 

[User1]

@pfoxgrover he may just be busy or traveling for work. I can't say for sure but I know I had an email answered around the 1st of the year. Send another message, it won't hurt especially if you are interested in buying something. I don't remember how far apart the mounting holes are but here is a image I had of mine mounted on a heat sink. There are enough holes spaced properly to fit most heat sinks with the standard mounting t-slots. If in question you can also use a thermal epoxy which is what I used on my other multi-channel chips from Rapid LED. The blue acro's mounted easy enough so I just used some spare artic silver I had for a thermal barrier / conductivity.

 

[User1]

Forgot I already added the images above, sorry.

 

[pfoxgrover]

Saf1. Thanks for the reply. I was trying to build a pendant light so I wont have T- slots. Hopefully I will hear something soon. I will send another email.

 

[User1]

Saf1. Thanks for the reply. I was trying to build a pendant light so I wont have T- slots. Hopefully I will hear something soon. I will send another email.

That is right - you mentioned that. There is a epoxy from artic silver that would allow you to glue it on. Warning though - you won't be able to remove it once attached. That is what I'm using on my Rapid LED multi channel LED. You won't need to screw, tap, any of that. Just mix, apply a thin coat, and set.

 

[pfoxgrover]

I am afraid if I go the epoxy paste route and the heat sink I pick is a problem that I will not be able to reuse the led puck. Looks like I will have to find a tap set for those small screws.

 

[Caravanshaka]

I also tried placing an order with blueacro a couple months ago and never got anything. had to request my money back through paypal. Unfortunate, I liked his stuff and used them on a few projects.

on a side note, I was born in Lancaster, CA! small world!

 

[pfoxgrover]

I also tried placing an order with blueacro a couple months ago and never got anything. had to request my money back through paypal. Unfortunate, I liked his stuff and used them on a few projects.

on a side note, I was born in Lancaster, CA! small world!

Wow. It is a small world. I was born here too. Thank you so much for saving me the stress of making a purchase and being disappointed. Speaking of disappointment, it seems like BlueAcro has a great product, a real shame that they don't manage it better.
I guess that leaves me with Lumia or off the shelf lights?

 

[User1]

I sent a email to him today, we'll see if he responds. Could be work, travel, vacation, family, who knows. I have four of his Acrostars that I wanted to replace the drivers with because the new ones have better PWM connectors. I may just have to splurge for LDD's and finish it that way. Would be a better cooling package and I'm still under budget of a single off the shelf product (and I'd have more lights).

 

[Caravanshaka]

Wow. It is a small world. I was born here too. Thank you so much for saving me the stress of making a purchase and being disappointed. Speaking of disappointment, it seems like BlueAcro has a great product, a real shame that they don't manage it better.
I guess that leaves me with Lumia or off the shelf lights?

I would suggest going with nanobox pucks. The spectrum on them is much better than lumia or any of the off the shelf stuff. Requires soldering, but other than that the wiring is just as easy as acrostar. Combine that with LDD drivers and you are good to go.

I lived off west ave L2 from 1983-93, but haven't really been back since then.

 

[User1]

@Caravanshaka I didn't think the nanobox pucks are sold separately.

 

[Caravanshaka]

@Caravanshaka I didn't think the nanobox pucks are sold separately.

Yes, Dave sells them for $55 each. I've done numerous projects with his pucks in the past. The new ones have the mint LED's as well, spectrum just keeps getting better with his pucks.

 

[User1]

Cool - didn't know. I have lime in a set of multi channels I have, an older set, from Rapid LED. The only issue is that in his design he went with 12 limes A bit too many but overall the chip is good. I'll be moving over those along with the four acrostars I have.

The driver I have from blueacro is the older ones without a pwm connection. I have to solder the connections and there isn't a wide enough pad - so the room for error is high and it may float across the other connections Going to try anyway. If not then I'll order a 8 up board from Steve's and fill it with LDD's. That board has connections for pwm and power so may be easier to use, mount, and keep cool. I'll just have to add in another 100 or so bucks if I go that route.

I'll check out those pucks and see. I may need additional chips if I don't get the coverage.

 

[pfoxgrover]

I would suggest going with nanobox pucks. The spectrum on them is much better than lumia or any of the off the shelf stuff. Requires soldering, but other than that the wiring is just as easy as acrostar. Combine that with LDD drivers and you are good to go.

I lived off west ave L2 from 1983-93, but haven't really been back since then.

I lived off West ave L8 shortly after that.
My two concerns about the nanobox puck is that I am not going to have a canopy and those lights don't have optics.
I like my lights high above the tank and worry I would not get good penetration and or too much light spilling into the room. My second concern is that with the leds spaced so much further apart than the lumia I worry about color mixing (disco ball effects).
Maybe I should try one out. Do you know how big the puck is? I kind of have my heart set on pendants.
Thanks for the help!