Need help!

[auditech17]

I’m still new at this I started in march of last year so not sure if this is the right thread for this but I jus got my ICP test results back, not sure how to fix this I have an aquatop 40 gallon I’m using Red Sea salt since new from LFS since their system used it. Started noticing my coral dying. My hammer hasn’t grown and my GSP doesn’t polyp full anymore the leather is not growing and i have bubble tips anemones I just added about 1 month ago and they will not stop moving and are closing up. I do 10% water change every Sunday and check all water parameters every Sunday as well. I did have a rise in phosphate to .31 so I removed my carbon and replace with Chemi pure elite and phosphates dropped. Using an mp10 and xr 15 pro.

Thanks for any and all help

Ph: 8.0
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 5 ppm
Salinity: 35
Temperature: 76-78
Alkalinity: 9
Phosphate: .18
Calcium: 460
Magnesium: 1500

 

[ryanjohn1]

What kind of lights are you using?

 

[1112-425XL]

Do you have a recent photo?
Parameters seem fine.
Possibly a lighting issues?

 

[SPR1968]

Your parameters look reasonably ok, your MP40 looks like it’s running very slowly but without seeing movement its difficult to tell with the tank size etc

Could easily be flow of water or maybe the radions lights need adjusting.

Might be worth posting some pictures/video.

The phosphate was raised so wether that was the cause although you say thats been dealt with now.

 

[auditech17]

What kind of lights are you using?

I’m using the XR 15 pro set to 20% intensity.

 

[auditech17]

Do you have a recent photo?
Parameters seem fine.
Possibly a lighting issues?

My light is set to 20% intensity. Jus attached a picture

 

[ryanjohn1]

2nd that parameters don’t look terrible.

 

[auditech17]

hammer colt leather and my GSP and GSP is getting worse

 

[auditech17]

Your parameters look reasonably ok, your MP40 looks like it’s running very slowly but without seeing movement its difficult to tell with the tank size etc

Could easily be flow of water or maybe the radions lights need adjusting.

Might be worth posting some pictures/video.

The phosphate was raised so wether that was the cause although you say thats been dealt with now.

I have a video from July of how the leather and GSP and hammer look and my torch before it died. I can post that would that help?

 

[Uncle99]

When everything is doing bad, I look to water, not just the testable things, but other possible contamination.

Any chance you have Chloramine in the water?

Commonly used by city water as a disinfectant.
There’s a filter for that if that’s the case.

I have to use this filter on my RODI.

 

[SPR1968]

You could do. The pictures above look very blue and I think the graph at the top is for the radion. Mine are via apex so different program

Looks like its running at quiet low levels so could be that along with the lighting colours

This is a general guide. I only go blue from around 7pm on a slow ramp down

You could also just try a series of water changes to see if you can get rid of the raised element levels in the ICP test. Just in case

 

[auditech17]

When everything is doing bad, I look to water, not just the testable things, but other possible contamination.

Any chance you have Chloramine in the water?

Commonly used by city water as a disinfectant.
There’s a filter for that if that’s the case.

I have to use this filter on my RODI.

I have a tds meter on my ro system and coming it it’s 25 or so going out is 0. Not to say that accurate but it’s the 4 stage from brs

 

[auditech17]

You could do. The pictures above look very blue and I think the graph at the top is for the radion. Mine are via apex so different program

Looks like its running at quiet low levels so could be that along with the lighting colours

This is a general guide. I only go blue from around 7pm on a slow ramp down

You could also just try a series of water changes to see if you can get rid of the raised element levels in the ICP test. Just in case

Yea I didn’t have my camera filter on the phone for it I do apologize.

 

[Uncle99]

I have a tds meter on my ro system and coming it it’s 25 or so going out is 0. Not to say that accurate but it’s the 4 stage from brs

Me too…..Zero TDS.
But chlorimine was in my Zero TDS water.
My meter cannot detect it.

I thought zero tds was zero everything, but, I’m wrong.
Only disolved solids.

Found it on my city water tests.

Ammonia and Chlorine are Chloramine. This combination lengthens the time ammonia stays in water, as a disinfectant to the delivery of drinking water.

Those two things can’t be helpful in the reef I think.

 

[SPR1968]

Yea I didn’t have my camera filter on the phone for it I do apologize.

I would go for a change/increase of flow lighting and series of water changes and see if that helps as your basic parameters are ok.

In particular maybe change the lagoon settings and pulse on the MP40 which looks like is a long period to something more active like reefcrest for most of the day and a bit more flow. Not blasting corals or anything but more active.

I run reefcrest for very long periods on nearly full power (but its big!)

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

do you know the par level? one xr15 at 20% on a 40 gallon seems low to me.......

 

[auditech17]

Me too…..Zero TDS.
But chlorimine was in my Zero TDS water.
My meter cannot detect it.

I thought zero tds was zero everything, but, I’m wrong.
Only disolved solids.

Found it on my city water tests.

Ammonia and Chlorine are Chloramine. This combination lengthens the time ammonia stays in water, as a disinfectant to the delivery of drinking water.

Those two things can’t be helpful in the reef I think.

So do you do an icp test on city water?

 

[auditech17]

do you know the par level? one xr15 at 20% on a 40 gallon seems low to me.......

I do not know. My anemones were and still hide under the rocks or at bottom of tank. Thats why I have 20% I can get a video of flow when my light turns on too

 

[Uncle99]

So do you do an icp test on city water?

No, they post the results of water quality on line yearly.
Cheaper for them to use Chloramine.
Many cities do this.
I’m taking filtering this out just to be safe.

 

[auditech17]

I would go for a change/increase of flow lighting and series of water changes and see if that helps as your basic parameters are ok.

In particular maybe change the lagoon settings and pulse on the MP40 which looks like is a long period to something more active like reefcrest for most of the day and a bit more flow. Not blasting corals or anything but more active.

I run reefcrest for very long periods on nearly full power (but its big!)

So the aluminum isn’t a problem? Could that be causing the issues I’m having? I’ll try changing to reefcrest and monitor.