Neptune Apex FMM module and SV-1 solenoid valve

[hybridazn]

So I'm setting up a auto fill on my ago using the fmm module, optic sensors and this solenoid valve. I saw that the fmm module was having issues with running the solenoid valve in its accessory port but Neptune was working on a solution.

I was wondering if anyone has any info on this? I don't have to hooked up all the way yet but am just about done with everything.

Thanks!
George

@Terence

#apexusers

 

[MaddyP]

I have two running off two separate FMM’s without issue. One controls ato water going into the tank (gravity feed) kicking on and off several times a day without fail for the past 3 months or so.

 

[DLHDesign]

I wasn't able to get mine to work (even after updating firmware), but I also didn't spend much time trying - I just moved the solenoid to a port on the EB8 I had open. Obviously not a solution for all cases...

@MaddyP - Do you have an A/C adapter plugged into your FMM? I think I recall seeing in my very brief skim of the doc that you have to do that to get the 24v port functional?

 

[hybridazn]

I was thinking I might need the 24v adapter as well.

 

[lbacha]

I was thinking I might need the 24v adapter as well.

You need the power supply to use the accessory port. I want to use mine to run my pmup but haven't decided if it's worth buying the power adapter.

 

[MaddyP]

I wasn't able to get mine to work (even after updating firmware), but I also didn't spend much time trying - I just moved the solenoid to a port on the EB8 I had open. Obviously not a solution for all cases...

@MaddyP - Do you have an A/C adapter plugged into your FMM? I think I recall seeing in my very brief skim of the doc that you have to do that to get the 24v port functional?

Yes, to use the powered DC port you have to have the power plugged into the FMM.

 

[hybridazn]

So will I need this

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pmup-24v-power-supply-neptune-systems.html

Or this

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/replacement-power-supply-for-1link-module-neptune-systems.html

I know the 2nd is for the 1link but would it work on the fmm as well?

 

[Greybeard]

I'm doing something similar, but without the FMM. Low and High level switches (pack of 5 horizontal float switches from Amazon... $8) in the ATO reservoir, connected to a (DIY) break out box. Water inlet is through a float valve, in case something fails. 110VAC solenoid from AirWaterIce plugged into controlled outlet.

Fallback OFF
If ATO_Lo CLOSED Then ON
If ATO_Hi CLOSED Then OFF
When On > 180:00 Then OFF

Takes about 2.5 hours to refill, refills once every day and a half or so. Works well for me. I've got the outlet trending... so I can graph the data and see how often it refills, and how long it takes.

 

[MaddyP]

So will I need this

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pmup-24v-power-supply-neptune-systems.html

Or this

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/replacement-power-supply-for-1link-module-neptune-systems.html

I know the 2nd is for the 1link but would it work on the fmm as well?

No, you need the power supply specifically for the FMM as it is a different amp rating.

 

[hybridazn]

Whoops, meant to link this one. Ordering now

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/fmm-power-supply-neptune-systems.html

 

[lapin]

I have 3 new optical sensors connected to an FMM. They are dry now and I believe show closed in fusion. See picture.



#2 is in my skimmer slime jug and needs to shut off my skimmer if it gets too full and I forget to look. What would the programing look like?

If SWX7_2 OPEN Then 3_8 OFF (this is the skimmer pumpon DB8)

If SWX7_2 OPEN Then 4_1 OFF (this is the skimmer air pump DB8)

Questions:
Will the device number work (3_8) and (4_1) or do I need to use the name I made up?
Do I need any statement to have them turn back on or will they do that when the level drops below the sensor?

Also the other 2 sensors are in my ato and mixing containers. I can use them to shut off the 24v power to the RO/DI solenoid when they get full? Should this be done at the DB8 outlet number for the power supply?

If SWX7_1 OPEN Then 4_7 OFF (4_7 is the power brick for the FMM power)

If SWX7_4 OPEN Then 4_7 OFF (4_7 is the power brick for the FMM power)

Or should I have the FMM do it. If i go the FMM route what would the programing look like?

Thanks in advance

My RO/DI comes on for a short period of time each day to replenish to ATO container and put some water in my mixing barrel. The process is not sensor driven. These are back ups in case something goes a miss.

 

[DLHDesign]

They are dry now and I believe show closed in fusion.

Correct; "OPEN" means wet, "CLOSED" means dry.

#2 is in my skimmer slime jug and needs to shut off my skimmer if it gets too full and I forget to look. What would the programing look like?

Yup; the code structure you have looks to be correct.

Will the device number work (3_8) and (4_1) or do I need to use the name I made up?

I'm pretty sure you have to use the label. At least; that's all I've ever used. When I tried the device number just now, it didn't seem to find it - so I would assume it would not work.

Do I need any statement to have them turn back on or will they do that when the level drops below the sensor?

The code will auto-toggle back to on automatically. E.g.; any time a state changes (sensor goes from OPEN to CLOSED, temp changes value, etc.), it triggers a recalculation of the values (starting from the top and working down).

Should this be done at the DB8 outlet number for the power supply?
Or should I have the FMM do it. If i go the FMM route what would the programing look like?

You wouldn't want to cut the power to the FMM, I wouldn't think. The general "rule of thumb" I've seen is that power bricks for things like the FMM should not be plugged into the DB8 - there's really no reason to do so; the 24v port on the FMM can be toggled just like an outlet on the DB8. The code to do this will have the same format as the skimmer jug code, just with the different sensor and outlet names.

 

[lapin]

I figured it out . No need to post up anything. Sensors just needed to be unplugged and then plugged back in. My programing was not correct.

 

[DarthSimon]

Closed means the optical sensor is wet, open means dry...

 

[DLHDesign]

Closed means the optical sensor is wet, open means dry...

Okay; that's what I thought as well! But then I checked out my dashboard and saw this:

I visually know my salt tank isn't low on water, so I assumed I remembered it backwards or something... Turns out I've got some kind of fault in my sensor. :-\

 

[justingraham]

So will I need this

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/pmup-24v-power-supply-neptune-systems.html

Or this

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/replacement-power-supply-for-1link-module-neptune-systems.html

I know the 2nd is for the 1link but would it work on the fmm as well?

Hit me up I have what u need of course if u need it I just saw u posted this in april

 

[hybridazn]

Hit me up I have what u need of course if u need it I just saw u posted this in april

Haha thanks buddy, yea I got it all hooked up and running.

 

[justingraham]

Haha thanks buddy, yea I got it all hooked up and running.

U going to rap?

 

[hybridazn]

U going to rap?

No not this year

 

[User]

I have two running off two separate FMM’s without issue. One controls ato water going into the tank (gravity feed) kicking on and off several times a day without fail for the past 3 months or so.

To confirm- the apex solenoid works in a true gravity feed situation for top offs? Such as elevated ato reservoir- solenoid- sump? How big is your ato reservoir and what’s the head pressure (water level height above the solenoid feed tube.)

It doesn’t require pump or source pressure to remain closed or open? I think most diaphragm solenoids need pressure.

Thanks