Neptune Apex Optical Sensors Failing

[MarsReefer]

All my neptune optical sensors seem to be failing on me and I don't know why. Do these things just not last long? I have 4 different optical sensors for my sump low level, off level, high level, and emergency level.

I use the low level to trigger my ATO, the off level to turn it off, the high level as a backup to the off level, and the emergency to trigger an alarm to let me know the pumps are off.

the low, off, and high level sensors have all stopped working over the last 2 months. They just read open all the time now. Is there a way to tell if they are just dead? Is there a more robust way to set up my ATO? I don't like float switches, they get stuck all the time so I thought optical was the way to go but now they are failing.

My ATO is program limited and has a secondary cutoff float valve so its not like its going to overflow ever, but I like having the switches to trigger it.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Just out of curiosity, are they spotless clean? Any deposits on the pyramid can block liquid from interrupting the light path. Also any scratches, like if a scrub pad is used to clean the pyramid, can also block liquid from interrupting the light path.

 

[MarsReefer]

Just out of curiosity, are they spotless clean? Any deposits on the pyramid can block liquid from interrupting the light path. Also any scratches, like if a scrub pad is used to clean the pyramid, can also block liquid from interrupting the light path.

I just took a look, and actually looks like water may have leaked inside? They have little air bubbles inside the pyramid even though it is completely submerged. would that cause them to always read open?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I just took a look, and actually looks like water may have leaked inside? They have little air bubbles inside the pyramid even though it is completely submerged. would that cause them to always read open?

Bubbles not good and at MACNA neptunes has indicated they recommend leak sensors and opticals get changed annually - Really?
I believe they came out with a new version of optical

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

I just took a look, and actually looks like water may have leaked inside? They have little air bubbles inside the pyramid even though it is completely submerged. would that cause them to always read open?

Could be. These types of sensors are usually sealed pretty darn well. Can you see a red light in the sensor when powered on? Sometimes it needs to be dark to see it. Open would mean that something is breaking the path of light somewhere. I bought my opticals off amazon for super cheap. I don’t remember if I had to change the connector out or not, it’s been several years. Might be worth looking at.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Bubbles not good and at MACNA neptunes has indicated they recommend leak sensors and opticals get changed annually - Really?
I believe they came out with a new version of optical

Annually….hahaha! Let me guess, it was a manufacturer or vendor that made that rec. Same ones that tell you to replace your heater annually and t5 bulbs every six months.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Annually….hahaha! Let me guess, it was a manufacturer or vendor that made that rec. Same ones that tell you to replace your heater annually and t5 bulbs every six months.

As mentioned- Neptune. I clean mine quarterly with peroxide and soft toothbrush

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

As mentioned- Neptune. I clean mine quarterly with peroxide and soft toothbrush

Somehow I missed the Neptune in your post. It happens.

 

[MarsReefer]

I dried off the outside best I could but all 3 look like this. I don't see any obvious salt buildup or anything, just lots of internal bubbles.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

I dried off the outside best I could but all 3 look like this. I don't see any obvious salt buildup or anything, just lots of internal bubbles.

Yeah, if you’re seeing lots of internal bubbles it’s dead for sure.

 

[blaxsun]

 

[n2585722]

I don't like float switches, they get stuck all the time so I thought optical was the way to go but now they are failing.

I have 13 float switches in use.I have been usinge them for over 7 years now and only had to replace 3 or 4 in that time. I do use 1/4" schedule 80 PVC tubing to mount them by taping the end of the PVC so the float switch can be screwed into it. I have a o-ring in place between the two to seal end of the float switch where the wires exit. Water getting into the switch where the wires exit is one of the main causes of failures. I would imagine it will be the same for the optical sensors also. Below is a photo that shows the two I have in my fresh saltwater tank. The longer one is the low level sensor and the short one is the full sensor. All of the bulkheads in my storage tanks are in the lid of the Brute can and not the sides. There is also a tube that the AWC fill pump uses to draw water from the tank and a PMUP pump for dispensing into other containers from the tank without having to roll it out from under my work bench and removing the lid. I also use these in two other storage tanks and also the sump and other places.

 

[MarsReefer]

That’s what I was afraid of. Maybe I’ll try the new liquid level sensor as a replacement. Would be nice to monitor the level over time.

 

[kenjung]

From my experience failure might be from electrical interference. For me I had to take out Aqua Lifter pump that caused the FMM module needing reboot every time it turned on, after I unhooked aqua lifter I never had issue with the optical sensor.

 

[n2585722]

From my experience failure might be from electrical interference. For me I had to take out Aqua Lifter pump that caused the FMM module needing reboot every time it turned on, after I unhooked aqua lifter I never had issue with the optical sensor.

Try adding a surge suppressor between the outlet and the Aqualifter pump. We had to add that on the Digital Aquatic PC4's to get the pump to turn off on CH 2 or 3. It would also cause those channels to turn on for a second if the were on CH 1 or CH 4. The surge suppressor would also fix that issue. Get one with the lowest clamping voltage you can find for 120v use. The small pumps like Aqualifter creates a larger back EMF pulse than the larger pumps when turned off.

 

[Jonty]

I love my Neptune setup but the quality of a lot of their products is poor and not that reliable which goes against the whole point of monitoring and control